NZeder

So it is like the F1 cars then.... needs more noise.

I like the results that the Isaac device gives however it does not meet the HANS written SFI 38.1 and FIA 8858/2002-2010 standard as it does not release with the belts in a single action which both these standards state.

There is guy here in nz that a dogleg box ie R-2-4 1-3-5 internals are holinger dog engagement. It has a 1:1 5th and was made from an original option 1 box I was told. Now it is the selectors that are special as Rev and 1st are in the back of the box where rev and 5th normally are. I would love that H of 2 3 4 and 5 for a track car as I got used to driving with that pattern when I owned my Datsun 710 aka 160Jsss mk1 which had a dog leg 5 speed standard.

Other things that come into play, no doubt, today is cage design and the rules around these safetly structures. As a result the bodies will be less flexible/act a spring as they once did, however without a full strut to strut cage then what I stated above does not come into it. The s30z is not that heavy in the scheme of things and a macpherson strut has an approx ratio that is close to 1:1. Depending on how you like your car setup (or how stiff the chassis is) it is said that a starting point is 400lb/in acting on a single wheel for a circuit car. Some say you set the front first to match your required setup and balance at the rear to give the over or understeer that you require/feel comfortable with. It can be a bit of a dark science and I for one am still learning and at a guess always will be I have been amazed to learn how much money has been invested in the deployment of products for the automotive industry be it for road or racing. Sometimes we forget that the factories have/had a lot more resources for the deployment of their works/sport options parts. So I would be doing what Alan is doing for spring rates if making a true period replica (look up the dictionary definition of replica).

baby...97 is when my went off the road aka when I got my first second zed....you might say I should have just stuck with one then it might be going....yeah right (or a more kiwi saying...yeah....nah.)

Thanks for sharing Alan. Maybe it will boost your mojo to finish it and hopefully that will rub of on me too so I can finish mine. Between the 2 of us we must have the longest running build projects.

The ones I have seen all have a flange fitting at the rear not the spline yoke fitting. But those are 240rs type option boxes that I have seen

Not sure about oz but I believe here in NZ it is illegal to install hid lights into a car that was not factory fitted with hid lights. So I would check with your local authorities before putting your name or a deposit down.

Gav you must have upset the youngin as the link is now dead.

And here it is running.

If you want to go a little lower in the front there is the old 80's trick that was done here in NZ and I assume other countries. Take the oem top hat/bush thing aka the big thing on top with the 3 studs sticking out. Heat up the outer shell to break the bond of the rubber. With the rubber removed it is then trimmed down. The steel out shell is the cut not down but split down the side in a number of spots aka hack saw down to make 4 or 6 metal tags. The cut down rubber is installed back into the outer shell and the now tags are then bent/folded down to hold the rubber in the shell. This old school mod should lower the setup by about 1/2 to 1" and the travel/shock length strut tube is not altered and you still have stock spring platforms

Recently sold a set of Radial Mounted Wilwoods that had dust seal and given they were radial mounted they were easier to fit. So there are options, they just cost a little more than stock wilwoods.

All this light stuff so what do you call the RB rocket now? What is faster than a rocket given its weight loss program?

Don't get a go pro too expensive get a rollei much better value for money IMHO

Toyo make a 235/50/15 in the R888 semi but dot rated. That is the widest that I know of without going to histroic type yokos or mich or drag type tyre aka large side walls. Well in 15's that is

They are not out of anything they are the Nissan sport option/FIA approved Sumitomo MK63 4 pot cast iron calipers that Nissan used on many cars, B210, 240RS, 710 (160J mk 1), A10 (160J mk2 to us in NZ land or Stanza to you ozzies), 240z/260z/280z/FairladyZ/FairladyZ432, Skylines aka most Nissan cars from 70-late 80's. They were factory fitted to the Nissan Presidents I believe.

Yeah spill....did you get a 240z or was it a 2 seater 260z?

What about Alan's nice 260z 2 seater in the for sale section? Nothing to do on that car but just enjoy it and keep it to the same level that Alan has all these years

If I win lotto this weekend I think I would take the next flight to Melbourne to sort our the shipping of this car back to NZ. Always admired how well this car is presented and I would love to have a 260z like that in my carage - hmm 3 260z 2 seaters all green now we are talking. 1. For the track 1. Stockish aka this one and 1 with the flares and modified a far bit - so only this one missing....better get to the shops and get that ticket - this weekend is a Jackpot of 20mil here in NZ.

These conversions work as the zed tacho is a license copy of the Smiths RVI Guage. If you don't want to make your own board just google smith rvi to rvc conversion you should find completed boards on ebay.co.uk Eg Http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380831633009

Nice find and cheaper than what I did. I took my tacho to a smiths Guage guy here in Auckland who installed a board inside my stock tacho. The board he used was one developed to do the same mod as you found but is designed for Smith Guages installed in Jags and other 60's 70's cars.

Well think of the flow the good machine shops are getting from the non cross flow today vs back in the day. Now give the cross flow hemi heads aka LY flowed more then given the knowledge today I am sure more could be gained plus it would be period correct vs tc setups

Given the LY was used in FIA competitions that is what we should be pushing for getting remade not a TC head that was not used in international competition.

Well done George. To answer Gav HS30-00016 that I used to own in now in NSW with Peter who I sold it to. Peter also found HS30-00013 which he said was the sister car as both where the colour specs, red. 13 gave up a number of parts and body panels for 16 then I believe the remains of HS30-00013 where sold and now reside in the UK. The rusted sugar scope, like Alan, makes me think it had been replaced after a bingal as they should be FRP as pointed out by Alan. I know others would not like to here this but last I heard HS30-00016 had zg flares (replacing the 70's ugly bonded on flares it had) and was getting a rb26 turbo engine transplant.

I have a 73 manufactured 260z 2 seater also - some 900ish less also. There were a lot of these here in NZ it seems, Gilltech (Hi John how is it going these days in QLD - how is the stang) has an NZ New 260z 2 seater that was manufactured in 73. I know of RS30-000013 and RS30-000014 (both owned by the same guy here in NZ), my car is RS30-000119 all 1974 models but manufactured in 73 and all of these must have been on the water in late 73 heading to NZ as they were all sold NZ new and my car was first registered for the road in early Jan 1974. This is much like my first Honda VFR800 which was a 1998 model but I purchased/road registered it in December 1997 - before it was meant to exist given it is known as a 98 model release This happens all the time. There are number of things that are unique to the early 260z 2 seaters, laters stuff does not fit, some 240z stuff does not fit and given the short production run of these models 18months finding some of the parts you are after can be very tricky - so good luck with hunt for interior parts if that is what you need. To answer your question about differences there are many and they vary a lot - but the short list is AMP guage not Voltmeter Different Doors Different Door linings Different Windows Regulators to 240z and later 260z Different loom - 1/2 way between 240z and later 260z fun Suspension (sometime I have seen 240z stub axles on the left and 260z on the right on the same car with original suspension all using the 240z sizing tubes) There is a lot more but those are main ones.