NZeder

What is find interesting about the dust boot issue is this. When I sold you those MK63's I included some second hand pistons (removed from my old Mk63 when I installed new pistons that I had at the time) they had been sitting around for 15 years so I am sure picked up some pitting from rust etc - so they were for just in case. I also including the 2 x seal kits that I imported from Japan - ie one for each caliper. The seal kit I purchased was 41120-68225 which includes #4, #5 and #15 from the attached pic ie includes the dust seals aka #5.

Well mate, you know you habe change your avatar to the zed now and drop the lambo image.

Is that a period mod

I am with Alan and never use soft mounts on an L6 sure on other engine aka 4 bangers but they are not required for a L6. Edit: Looking at the sport option catelog and Alan is correct Nissan shows different rear cylinders.

So your Sc class means your 280z has stock calipers, disc, drums and EFI setup (or are you running su or do they allow triples). What other mods can you do? Adjustable platforms? Rose joints? Good work by the way fun to watch. Cheers Mike

There is a guy on ebay from Italy who has lots of DHLA stuff - an alfa bloke this is his ebay site - you can try him http://stores.ebay.com/ALFA1750S-CARBURETORS-PARTS-STORE?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

This might help a little too - I know it is for the LHD model but I have found Nissan did not change the looms much so the colours should be the same. http://www.airmayer.com/images/240z/earlywire.JPG

Shame you are on the wrong side of the Tasman....hang on that is me that is on the wrong side when these are over there lol.

This is great news. The power of media helped no doubt + forums help also. A well known Mk2 Escort was stolen a number of years ago here in NZ (the car was killed at the leadfoot festival last year - another story). Like the 240z that was posted on here - it was on a trailer and got taken. You would have thought that a Ford Escort would be easy to hide right - well via the internet forums, phone calls, the police dropping the right hints to the known gang connections the car become to hot to handle and the original thieves (believed to be a car theft gang dropped it like a hot potato) passed it on a young guy who wanted to join a gang (so the story goes). Short version is 2 weeks later the car was found with grey primer paint work that did not even cover the race number and other stickers under the primer and the young guy was nicked and the car returned to the rightful owner Bruce. So once something becomes too hot to hold on to or fence and with a lot of buzz in certain circles the wise thing is usually done - drop the hot property. Luck thing is they did not set fire to it or anything like that.

How is it all going these days? Have you still got the c110? What abour the MX5? Good to see you are back...zed are like "Hotel California" 'you can checkout anytime, but you can never leave' Cheers Mike for over the ditch.

I have always like 918 orange on a zed black bonnet too?

Right long time between working on a zed - any zed of mine that is. So I have done a little bit of work on both cars over the xmas break so far. Some might recall that for the road car (the green one with steel flares) I was changing the cable operated heater for actuators from a later Nissan (just about any Nissan of the early mid 90's vintage) This is a push button control head with a variable resistor on the temp settings/slider. There is an electronic amp that reads the air temp in the cabin, the setting on the variable resistor and opens or closes the tap to control the hot water flow in the heater radiator. This amp also controls a series of relays to set the fan speed when in the auto mode. Anyway the factory vent/airflow box from these later Nissans (N14, N15, P10 etc) usages just one actuator that controls all the modes - ie Face, Face/Foot, Foot, Foot/Defog, Defog. However I could not get this setup on the stock 260z Airflow box (the center bit the radiator in it) so the plan was to get it working with 2 actuators, the stock one and an additional vent door actuator from the same setup. So the standard main actuator controls the standard center flapper door with the additional actuator controlling just the foot vent door. So the next step to getting this working was to work out how to control the foot door from the control unit - using a stripped down unit to expose the circuit board I worked out the how it operated on the bench - however using the feeds from the main actuator were not going to work as the power is removed once the actuator was in its correct position. This meant the foot door would not fully open or close before the power source was removed. Plan B - use the LED indicators on the control unit and a custom circuit to control the foot door actuator as required. After 2 version of circuit (one using 5 transistors, resistors and diodes = big circuit board and one failed attempt due to me not thinking about + source as the trigger when I only had a ground trigger from the control unit...doh) a solution was found using a NAND Gate and some NPN transistors to turn on the actuator via its two ground connections. The actuator has 3 wires to control it - +12V and the 2 ground points which position the actuator. 1 Ground point drives it 1/2 way around the other drives it the remaining 1/2 way back to the start. The heater control unit grounds a spare pin to earth when the corresponding switch is depressed (LED is on at the same time). So these were used on my NAND gate inputs which were tied high with a pull resistor. I used a 4023 triple NAND gate chip with all the inputs as stated pulled high by default which meant the output was low. When any of the inputs goes low (given only one switch only be depressed at once via a physical locking switch setup on the control panel) and the others are high then the output is high also (aka +12v). I used 2 of the NAND gates in the chip - one for the foot door close location and one for the foot door open. So now I had my outputs from the 4023 chip as required - when the foot door was to be closed (Face only button depressed, or the Defog only button depressed) then I would get a +12v on the corresponding pin on the chip and like wise for the door open (face/foot, foot, foot/def). Now I just needed to use a NPN transistor to take the logic +12v single and turn that into a ground on the load and connect that to the correct pin on the actuator. Using a multimeter to meausre the current draw from the actuator I could then calculate the resistors I needed to drive the NPN transistor correctly (reads switch it on and off as required based on the output from the NAND gate). Result = actuator control circuitry working as required for less than $20 worth of parts (including the 2 circuit board setup that were not ideal or did not work for the given requirements - 25 years since I last did electronics so I was expecting some errors in my thinking/circuit building.) If I build the correct circuit from the start cost would have been around $10 with most of the in the board and the box it sits in and only $4 of electronics. So that is what I did on the road car. Race car - installed the front brakes, attempted to install my rears - found out I had my rear brackets made up incorrectly = too thick on the ears = offset not right 1mm out = calipers did not fit. So I will need to get the brackets milled down by 1mm - but I will wait until I get the car to the fabricators shop and he can check it out himself, update his drawing and either fix these brackets. I started on the loom cut down, working on the rear loom first removing speaker wires, electric aerial wires, interior doom light and wires for the rear window demister/defogger (why would I need them in there on the race car given the screen in there does have one anyway). So that is a far as I got on them - 4 kids sock up so much time.....so next up is the rewire of the front loom with 2 circuits - lights/acc circuit/loom then engine loom - so I will have 2 looms going to the engine bay. The idea is that everything that is needed to run the engine is on separate loom - this way I can id issue faster and at the track who cares if the lights/horn etc are not working. So not a lot to report but at least it is something (attached is an image of the internals of the ZC4023 that I used - I will post the full circuit once I draw it up from my hand drawn mess) Happy New Year to all too.

True - that is why my track car will have a stock L28 for a while - so I can get other things sorted first (mainly the driver lol) then I can install power upgrades via a new fresh L28 with the trimmings.

And you were living in Waitamata when I purchased it from you correct? That engine number sounds about right - when I got it was fitted with a L26 but I did track down a L24 that was in that 6900-7200 range for the car before selling it one to Pete who now live in Sydney which is where the car is now located. Pete purchase HS30-00013 who's body was in worse shape also. This car gave up its roof so HS30-00016 could have one without a subroof. If I recall the car came into NZ in 1988 from Norfolk Island.

Yes for the original ones - there are replica one on the market now that can be purchased for around 27,000 Yen - so that has made the original more valuable - pleased I have one of the originals that I purchased a few years back now too.

Well I know Nissan moved the regulator further forward on the 260z - then change the doors again for the later 260z in mid 75+ so it is possible.

Here in NZ we have a few guys running the AZC setup and Rota RK-R in 15x8 - that is with the 12.2" rotors - not a lot of room and you need to have weights not on the inside of the rim (unless you can get them on the back of a spoke) Also 15x8 Minilite (genuine) will work with a 12.2" and Wilwood 4 pot superlite caliper - just again no weights on the inside of the rim

Gav I think you will find they are too tight for that rim.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-L6-DOHC-Cylinder-Head-240Z-260Z-280Z-L24-L26-L28-Fairlady-Z-Nissan-/261351937213

Adam if matching numbers is your desire that is going to be a hard road to follow given the car and block have parted ways a long time ago. I don't want to water down the great work you have done on your car but I don't think matching numbers will make any difference to the value of your car. Yes you car is an early 240z but not early enough IMHO to justify the hunting down of the original block. If you car was chassis ID sub 50 or even sub 200 then I think it would worth the effort. Again don't get me wrong I love what you have done but if you wanted to go down this path you should have painted the car an original colour etc. So your car has a warm L26 - with triples and SWM header, improved suspension etc - it will go great, sound great, look great and you will love it - would you love it more or less if it was bone stock matching numbers with stock suspension etc No different car for different reason. Now I think cars that need to be matching numbers are Z432 now that is a special S30. But does that mean you should not modify the suspension, brakes, etc no I would just have 2 x suspension, rims if I had a Z432 - the stuff I want in the car to drive and original spec for the times you want to enter a concourse as a stock car (ie steel rims if that how it was meant to be when new etc) So again just my opinion forget about the original block - build a bridge and get over it - it is gone. Cheers Mike

ok just checked what we get changed here in NZ 22.49 cents per kWh (but as we are high user we get the cheapest rate - standard rate is 26kWh) we just use a truck load 1749kWh last month (just one month not a quarter like you guys) If we did not have solar hot water (for summer) and wet back (for winter) our bill would be much larger as this is 50% saving on the normal usage - I know we tested it when we build the house - 26 units a day with solar hot water not heating and just using electricity and 13 units when using solar for water heating. Last month was $450ish

You should live here in NZ - invoices once a month, no gas, or water (tank water = pumps to run), have 2 adults and 4 kids in our house, then granny flat has 2 adults cost ....are you ozzies sitting down and remember most of our power in this country is from Water/Hydro/Wind (no nukes here baby) We also have wet back fireplaces in both house/granny flat and we have solar hot water too and energy efficient house so we can't do much more pumping water uses most of our electricity $$$$$$$$$ 450-500 a month :'( ok that is NZD funny money but a truck load and here in NZ it has gone up 9% every year for the last 5 years - I wish wages would go up 1/2 that let alone 9% Our MP's got in stating they would work on close the gap to AU (as far as cost of living and wages go) that gap has only got bigger. As a result we are installing solar panels on the roof of the granny flat (22 of them) so we can generate our own - the supplier we have will give us 1 for 1 credit when going back into the grid so we should see our bill drop by a lot once that is in - if they price keeps going up we will install more panels and batteries in the Zed shed and go off grid.

Gav you did the right thing not taking on a MX5 project - don't get me wrong they are great little car and have a good following but..... When I first took my zed of the road (all those years ago now - closer to 2 decades than anything else) I still wanted something sporty to drive on the roads. I took a MX5 for drive - what a disappointment. Sure it handled great and better than a stock zed out of the box...but were was the go, that feel through the seat as you hit the gas pedal. It just did not have the character of a zed. So I purchased another zed enough said. Again right move Gav - there are few cars that I wished I had kept - all my zed's + the Datsun 160Jsss that I had (710 model)

You and me both - my build has been going on too long....well now builds.....

Engine bit is easy really. LHD and RHD cars all needing L24 engine plus don't forget other saloon type cars that were using the L24 at the same time. Engines made in one plant cars in another and only coming coming together at the end of the assembly line allowing other L24 to go into different shells. Have to admit to liking safari gold too what sealed the deal for me was seeing Alan's Z432-R replica project back some 5 or 8 years ago now it has gone quick either way.