NZeder

Well I would love one of the cranks PMC does and that might be for later on. Given LD28 are a bit easier to finder here in NZ aka my example of picking one up for $0.40 AUD. Then for now most here in NZ will build strokers using LD28 mainly due to supply ie I have 3 good ones in storage in the shed currently. That matches the 3 L28 engines I have and yes more than I need but I do have 2 zeds so that leaves just one as a spare. Once prepared my 0.40 crank will cost a lot more so the price is dependent on if it has been checked/crack tested etc. My crank is currently unknown condition other than it came from a marine install and was running standard main and big end bearings so then donor engine should not have been too stressed or rev'd hard most of its life.

Wow pleased I am not in oz looking for a ld28 crank (one plus for returning home to Auckland after living in Melbourne over 10 years ago now...time does fly) I know none of you ozzies want to hear this but over the last 10 years since I have been back in NZ I have obtained 6 LD28 crank shafts. 3 have been sold on or used in stroker builds (one sold and shipped to oz) usually sold for around $250AUD but the shipping is expensive which is why the price is high in oz. My latest LD28 crank I picked up this weekend remove from the block and today I took the old block to the scrap dealer and got $20 for the block. Not bad deal given I paid $20.50 for the engine with the crank in good shape running standard mains and big end journals and a non damaged snout/key ways (common to find some damage to the first key way as that is used to drive the diesel pump) So $0.50 NZD for a good LD28 crank I am very very happy about that.

Msa do them see here http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic03a02

Oops double post.

When some of the local zclub here in NZ visited my place a few weekends back one member said he knew someone with the means to cast up new heads or copy an existing head. He was talking about a new head design but again I would say why make something that you can't use for classic racing. Why not as Alan and Gavin have pointed out the LY or FIA Safari heads. I would purchase one of those.

See if you can find 2 one for this kiwi

me too I want my Mk63's back just stick hulix calipers and I will habe my light covers back too. Just remember you regretted selling your first 240z so you embarked on the brown hornet project don't do it. Just think of all the cars you have sold and think about how with a bit of funds management you could have kept them all (space is the issue for keeping them)

Yes now in the shed with my 2 zeds. Perfect thank you for your help with getting these to me. They are for the race car and will complete the standard series body work requirements for our local T&C rules.

Just wanted to a big thank you 2 members of this forum for helping this kiwi out with getting my new spoilers to me. So thank you Ben aka Benny and David aka katokid.

You can take just the box out. Just make sure you have something to stop the engine from leaning to far back.

Had the same issue on my box I the track car. Had to remove the box to get it out in the end. What I don't get is why people have do them up to tight. They are a tapered thread and will seal just fine without the big over tighten.

They are easy to make. One of my 260z had no rear bumber so I used a 240z one and made new brackets for the job.

I would say because they are period correct, look/size is perfect for the wheel arch etc. I am thinking of selling my 16" Watanabes and going to 15" also. But I am thinking of running period rubber also some of the CR65 Dunlops to suit at least 9" wide shoes for the flared zed.

25360-n4400 is a door/dome light switch part number see attached sample.

sounds good catch up for a beer? Will email you.

And later 260z 2 seater trim is different again as the door lock is further forward vs earlier year versions.

Early 260z doors are different with the window crank handle about 30mm further forwards vs 240z stuff and that is even before you look at the styling differences aka arm rest pull vs separate arm rest and pull on a 240z.

right I see your problem then. You are not emptying your float bowls fast enough

Hi guys looking someone to help with collection of same cams/fia approved spoilers. PM me please. Cheers Mike

good dizzy and a good price.

As yhe subject states. My fabicator has a customer with a CSP311 1966 silvia here in NZ and is need of front and rear screens anyone know who supplies these? Shot me a PM if ypu can help.

If you want a good solid setup and you don't have class rules that force you to use a dizzy I would recommend the electromotive xdi crank trigger/wasted spark setup it just works and is rock solid.

that would be nice and I am sure Jason would love to race a zed that large but SC rules dictate he has to use the L28 aka stock crank so he does the best he can for the class rules - that does not mean that all are playing the game correctly. I had a L28 crank that was down by about 3-4kg - can't recall now it was years ago this was in my ownership now in the engine bay of another 240z race car here in NZ. 35lb is 15.9kg is more like 16kg than 15kg too that is still 6kg out of the stock LD28 cranks which is a lot of metal.

15kg...will not be a LD28 at 15kg they start at 22kg you would not have a lot of LD28 left to get it down to 15kg.

I have seen a 72 240z auto here in NZ. It was sold NZ new too. Don't forget that some models can be sold before they are officially released. I had a motorbike new in 97 yet the model was released as a 98 model.