NZeder

I should have one from the first batch soon. They have a o-ring to taking care of the sealing and price is confirmed at $675 NZD + Shipping.

Well I emailed Lurch to let him know that I was going to be in town the week 15-19 and I could extend my business trip for a catch up - it has been a number of years since I was in Melbourne last. And looks like it might be another few months before I will be again Boss has pulled the travel plans for Jan as it is still holiday season and the $$ for flights and accommodation are higher than normal and for this very adhoc trip that our Consulting Services wanted me at (reads can't be budgeted/or cost passed on to a customer) is now not going to happen. Sorry I will not be able to joining this time around. Next time I will only let Lurch/others know once I have flights booked - live and learn. I will be in Melbourne sometime in 2018 just not Jan now

Wow can't believe it has been that long since I last updated this thread. 1. All RB stuff gone. 2. 74 260z fully caged car gone and replaced with a 1970 Mini Cooper S replica (slow but lots of fun). 3. Nothing changed on the 76 260z road car - one day I will find the time and energy to put the kit set back together. Things I need to do in the shed. 1. Tidy it up (always needs this). 2. Remove all the parts hanging on the wall - ie guards, bonnet, hatch etc. 3. Put building paper, insulation up then line the shed so it is not freezing in winter and too hot in summer (this is one of the reasons nothing is getting done + 4 kids aka time vampires as I call them).

Yes please....I will PM you

Like it Rally Clock face would be cool. I have been thinking about getting a smart watch - so feedback on the Gear S2?

If you want to run a different offset hub get some 300zx z31 4 stud hubs they will place the wheel further outwards.

Dimitri is correct no offset change it is just the rotor hat that is different due to the thicker 260z flange.

Well here in NZ we can use period parts however we also have issues where others have used the rules that allow for mods to take it way to far too. example is there is FIA papers that show a 16valve head fitted to a Ford pinto block. Known as a holbay so today people are passing off a fully alloy block/head based on a YB cosworth as one of these and that is so out of spec it is not funny aka 2.5l dohc escort making 300hp...... Then we have the in period here in NZ - only saloons where raced and a zed is not a saloon. But said German cars had a token back seat so are OK. All of this stuff has (and a new job that means I will not get my track car finished) made me sell my track car project (still keeping the flared zed) and purchase this. 1. They were raced in period here in NZ 2. It is a saloon 3. parts are readily available and still period correct and cheaper than zed stuff. 4. These parts where factory fitted. But not vented rotors etc. But then car is small and light so these still work OK. 5. I won't get the they did not race here in NZ in period like you do with a zed (the anti Japanese bit I feel is why this is pulled out of the hat) So this is the new track car.... A 1970 Morris Cooper S 1275. OK a replica but using genuine 1275 cooper s engine, brakes and badges aka it is a reshell using a mini k body due to rusty cooper s body. Plus not many racing in classics here anymore as most race in a mino only class which is outside of period spec mods in some configurations. So yes I have given up and jumped ship by purchasing a already completed car.

NZ specs are a bit different to AU spec. NZ are general RHD spec which is different to AU and UK. Chassis numbers are not something we publish in the local club, I am not active much these days but I can see what bingo numbers I can find.

Or stick with a safer 88mm bore and get 3257cc aka 3.3l that is what I would do

I too have been talking to spool about a big l28 stroke cranks. My discussions were sometime ago and around using a 89mm stroke and a Honda b16a rod which has 134.36mm center to center length and good bearing as available for them the are a 48mm journal so will give more block clearance as at 89mm stoke if using stock journal things will be very tight and lots of metal will need to me removed for clearances. This does mean a small compression height for the piston of 29mm however a side bonus is the Honda uses a 21mm little end so then that means the same piston could be used on a 85mm stroke with L14 spec rod in 136.4mm. So 2 setups could be sold. Big stroke or bigger stroke.

Yep back on topic please. I started this thread to discuss period mods and racing a S30 in period spec. If you want to race something else altogether good for you but please lets leave this thread about period mods and classic racing.

yep I tried changing the holes first on mine. Then only to find it was fouling on the bonnet....doh... so cut out the whole back (after making a jig to keep it straight) then welded in a new back (did loose the factory ribs and used thicker sheet steel). It is with a fibre glass guy now getting a mould done.

I believe it might be 1/2 of a Lambo V12 air box. I will have to see if I can find a pic. I have a prince air box that I am getting a mould off now that I have modified it to fit. I will let you know when it is done and cost to make one.

Well done Paul very pleased for you. As you know sending funds off and hoping for the best can be a very nerve racking experience and the funds needed to secure a Hako is not pocket change but a good amount of hard earned (and more than some spend on a toy). Like the saying goes those with the most toys wins and Paul you are on to a winner with this car.

Thanks for pointing me back to one of my old posts about the camry cv I forgot about that. Well I know the 300zxt Z31 4x1 on one end and the 5x1 on the other end of a pathfinder axle works (pathfinder axle needs to be modified with a snap ring groove cut so the 300zxt 4x1 can be installed) On the short side it just works does not bind but gets really close to binding.

Well my axle setup is running well on another road/track car along with the obx centre. I picked up a S15 Helical centre myself. This will go into the diff for the road car. The hlsd have 30 teeth/spline on 31mm shafts with the snap ring inside the lsd centre. They have 3x2 bolt pattern. I am changing to a 5x1 bolt pattern by using some Nismo GTPro plugins which share the same 30t on 31mm shaft. For those interested this is the same spline/shaft size as the 2 way early R32 GTR mechanical LSD. So if you hunt you can use plugin with 3x2, 5x1 or 6x1. I am going 5x1 as here in NZ there are many skyline/laurel imports that use the 5x1 setup. Over the next few weeks I will source the parts I need again to do the custom axles setup using wd21 axles after selling the last setup as stated which is running in a 240z road/track car now.

what and where have you been reading? I have a copy of the sports option catalog of the period and Nissan sold pistons for the P30 blocks aka L24/L26 that where 87.8mm spec. It does have a foot note that states new blocks only. So that is more than your current 86mm. I have seen 2 P30 blocks here in NZ taken from their stock 83mm to 86mm and not fail...well one did but not the block, the crank snapped in that engine

Just in time for xmas

you are getting it confused. A negative offset will be further away from the perch than a 0 of positive offset as the back space is lower. To the original poster. You will need big flares for the 10 with a -32 bigger than zg flares more like the group 4 type flares.

Have the rare cooling bodies too. You don't see many of those on s4, s5 sometimes but again very rare to see the cooling blocks.

Sorry I missed the question directed to me. So i will try and answer them now if a little late. 1. Vlsd do need a long input shaft on one side. I have not done a vlsd conversion yet. 2. I don't recall ever stating use empi axles. I was trying to help the USA guys out who had purchased some...well it was so long ago i can't recall and don't visit hybridz much these days. If I did it would have been based on my build which was using 5x1 at the diff end. I build my axles using the following parts. 1. V6 pathfinder/terrano wd21 front axles. These are 5x1 bolt pattern at the diff end. 2. 300zx Z31 turbo axles. Used only for the 4x1 bolt cv at the wheel end. 3. A OBX S13 short nose ATB LSD. 4. S14 5X1 diff plug in axles (from an open diff) The pathfinder axles as they where oem items they had non tri pod cv that the guys in the USA found with the empi/aftermarket items. So both ends of the axles matched the cv joints i planned for the build. All I had to do was cut a new sir clip groove at what was the wheel end of the pathfinder/terrano so the z31 cv could be installed on this end. Alxes where then assembled with new boots and installed on a 240z track car. I now like you need to do a 3x2 inner cv setup for my 260z track car as the lsd I have now has 3x2 plugins at the diff end. So I now need to source some pathfinder/terrano 4 cylinder front axles which have the same 3x2 setup at the diff end. Then remove the wheel end cv, cut the new sir clip groove and install the 300zx 4x1 cv end (these 4x1 cv ends are now very hard to find so i might have to come up with something new again) I did this conversion years and years ago, I used oem parts not aftermarket stuff like a few on hybridz.org that found tri pods and different spline counts on the axles. However as some locally assembled vehicle use parts sourced from local manufacturers what I did using all JDM oem parts might not work if using a mix of JDM parts and locally assembled parts. Just be aware of that fact.....you might get a different axles that were supplied by a local manufacturer.

Oops double post

Great news Paul. Always nice to when things work out better on the pocket. Always an anxious time waiting for new goodies coming from Japan

Nice. I am pleased for you. I would love one too. Keep it....never sell it.