NZeder

fourways engineering used to make them - on their old website they had images - I am sure they might still make them to order. http://datsun240z.co.uk/parts.php

And 8200rpm with a full size flywheel - why would you bother with such a large lump of metal at the rear of the engine.

Well done on the new arrival. Gav those are not just s31/fairlady z fender mirrors. I have 2 sets of those that came on NZ new 260z the are more hens teeth than the 240z type

Thanks guys I am now all sorted. So the dash can go back into the track car soon. Thanks to Alan and Greg.

Hi Alan, Thanks for the offer - I am all sorted on the dash brackets thanks to a member on this forum - so only need the console bracket - but that one is easier to replicate and if I can't find one I will make one - the dash ones with their shoulders and swage are a bit harder to make for someone like me.

Hi all. As the subject states after the passenger side lower dash bracket like the image taken from my road zed attached. Also the console bracket that bolts just in front of the gearbox hole on the captive nuts as shown. Need these parts to mount my dash and console in the track car. Pm if you can help. Just need the bits that bolt on between the welded parts on the tunnel and the dash and console. Cheers Mike

Hi I am after the passenger side lower dash bracket like the image taken from my road zed attached. Also the console bracket that bolts just in front of the gearbox hole on the captive nuts as shown. Need these parts to mount my dash and console in the track car. Pm if you can help. Cheers Mike

Thanks for clearing the early ford thing up I knew a number was missing but got it the wrong way around. Vin and no engine number...got it I thought it was the other way....

Not here in NZ - engine number is not the cars ID that VID/Chassis code is the cars ID + the rego number if previous rego will be key in getting a car back on the road - better yet to put the rego on hold before it expires - this way the NZTA still have it in the system and still know who owns the car - you still transfer the ownership like the car is on the road you just don't pay the fees until it is back on the road again (aka = rego is still alive and when the car is ready for the road again just a standard WOF is carried out, a WOF we do every 6 months aka road worthy) if the car is modified then it needs to be certified before it can come back on the road. If however the rego is dead ie expired, not on hold man you have a lot of hoops to jump through to get it back on the road - it basically as to be a new car. Engine number seem as bit of BS to me - engines can and do change after age, blow up etc don't see why that should be used to ID a car - I bet that goes years back when cars aka Fords did not have chassis codes just a standard number to id the body style and the engine number was used to uniquely ID the car however that died in the 60's I thought.

www.binaschroer.com/datsun-wide-body or these guys have images of a 280zx body kit - not sure if they do them. http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/280zx.html

The guy in NZ got his kit years and years ago from Dave at Arizonazcars but he sold the molds. You canget the same kit from Mike in the UK here http://www.mjpshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=156_96&product_id=375 Also I see others have post other suppliers of the 280zx gto isma kits now as well. Cheers A kiwi bloke

There is a guy here in NZ with that body kit. I guess he purchased about 7 years ago so it might still be available. I will email him and find out.

As an affordable classic I would have a Datsun KP710 again aka 160j SSS Mark 1 like I had before (should have kept that car - I can't find my pics of it - too many PC changes since) but here is one that looks the same

well my 74 260z has tje same green wire in the rear for the fuel pump. I have replaced the front loom in my track car so did not bother to check where it goes but can only assue the same location as the 240z.

I guess if porka is going to beat you in a class like sc so be it as from the rules it is all about production based racing and lets face it those with the bigger budget usually win. Given a porka cost more than a zed then that is what it is = bigger budget. If it is like some of the classes here in NZ the car is meant to be the star not winning on the track (however who doesn't want to win even if it is getting the better of a porka once and a while knowing you budget could not purchase the special non standard production car) If you want to win get a bigger budget build what you want (s130 with turbo V6 power - which in my mind any zed without a in line 6 is not a zed which is why even nissan did not really want to id the cars as such and the export cars were ZX) having said that you have chosen the wrong car too as you are limited by it's chassis design and will not win a race with car who's owner has even $$$ to get an even better track weapon. But that is not why you have built it that way. You have built it as maybe that is the fun for you building something different and having fun. Is that not the same? SC racing is about having older cars as it was as it should and having fun -- winning is not the aim of the game. If the guy running the grids are anything like here in NZ a porka and zed aren't even in the same class as one has a back seat and can play in the saloon type class and the other has 2 seat and has to play with sports cars aka gt40, lemann specials etc not exactly production based (that is just one or two event a year here NZ that lump the zed in these groups) BACK ON TOPIC NOW PLEASE. Richard we get it you don't like SC racing it is not your cuppa tea so be it we all know it from your posts.

Interesting points Richard. In SC are strut braces permitted? If yes then are the type that go from strut to strut and back to the firewall allowed? If so then the firewall point could be matched up to a dash bar All this stuff was done is period as was strut to strut cages so don't get why CAMS don't allow the same today. Anyway I guess those are rules you have to build to so that is what you build to if that is your target grid/class.

no kidding 90% gasoline + 10% Ethanol = E10 15% gasoline + 85% Ethanol = E85 Big big difference.

I read somewhere that high Ethanol is not good for a carb'ed engine that has the fuel sitting - ie needs to use the fuel within a week or issue will happen. The article I read said you don't want to go more than E10 (10% Ethanol) - I also recall talk about how burning high % Ethanol was worse for the atmosphere than burning Petrol (sure less CO2 but more poisons for the ozone layer/smog in given temp/atmospheric conditions). I have not checked these facts I just recall reading that recently.

IIRC it is a bolt installed in a place where you can install a nipple, grease up the rack then remove nipple and install bolt again.

yes that is here in NZ and that is Martin's TA22 that is turbo powered he has 240z also - you might know that project user name Gaijin his TA22 has 422 RWHP So you did not get the 18R-G powered car there? We have a few here in NZ

I think you will find you did get the R power cars....bit of hint on Toyota Codes. AE86 = A series Engine - as in 4AGE in this case in a E86 series of Corolla KE20 = K series Engine - as in 3K engine in the E20 series of Corolla TE27 = T series Engine - 2TG engine in E27 - aka Sprinter/Levin So in the Celica range TA22 = T series Engine - 2TG in a the A22 bodied Celica aka coupe RA23 = R series Engine - usually 18R in the A23 bodies car again a coupe RA25 or RA28 = R series Engine and this time the Hatch back body. Models I have seen here in NZ due to JDM imports are TA22, RA23, RA25, RA28 and RA35. I took both T series and R series cars for drives 20+ years ago - from the single cam R to the twin cam R and all felt under powered - nice cars just not a performance vehicle IMHO at the time. There is a RA28 here in NZ with a 1UZ-FE engine between the structs now that has some performance.

I know before purchased my first zed some 20 years ago I looked a a few RA23 and RS28 here in NZ (actually very rare to find here in NZ now) but having driven a few 240z/260z at the same time - I was very disappointed by the performance and they felt like a heavy car - so passed and got a 260z 2 seater that I still have today So that does not help with why they are so cheap in Oz but as others have stated it will be who is purchasing these cars - here in NZ they are going for good money if you find one for sale.

So if ypu have a 260z one on the car and you mentioned it used to have a 240z one - why not pull the 240z one apart, clean it up, check the contacts rebuild it reassemble test. This what I have done on both of mine and they now work great.

Just opening this up again. So I purchased 2 x FJ20T boxes and both had only 18mm gears not the 20mm other have stated. I have another FJ20 box here that I will pull soon to see if the last one of the 3 I have purchased as fj20t boxes actually are turbo boxes. So questions for you ozzies. What cars do these 20mm fj20t gearboxes come from? The boxes I have sourced are from JDM R30 skylines. So maybe I need to find later fj20t powered cars to find one of these 20mm gearset boxes. For now I have a few 71b boxes to break

look the same but very different. Longer and the bolt pattern is the same but on a much large pcd. So will not work.