NZeder

road car or track? track clsd, road torsen are great as less maintenance no plates to check/replace

Depending on RIM design and rotor/caliper location you can get wilwood 12.2" rotors in a 15" RIM that is what the car above in the pic has under those 15" rims. But I know that the 300zx caliper are too tall on a 12.2 and a 11.75 to fit in the same rims so caliper design/size comes into play also.

You still get units that have castle nuts and grease hole (don't come with nipples just a small bolt filling the hole). These are 555 brand and will cost a lot more.

So basically the same as ours rules, but we can use fia brakes or other brakes sold ad used on the cars in period + we can use triples.

Jason in Australia what are your SC rules like for gearboxes? IE are you allowed to run the 71C boxes or must the 71B cases be retained?

The pic above has 15x8 +10 running 235/50/15. The Toyo R888 235/50/15 are as wide as a 245/45/16 and like Jason states these would go perfectly on a 15x9. If you have seen my old red 240z when I first go it that had 16x9 -6.9mm on them so doing as Jason has pointed out will give the same offset and with the 235/50/15 Toyo it would be a great setup It is just as shame no one make the 245/50/15 anymore

Found it

The zed shape can make the rears look bigger. I have photo of my mates 240z racecar that has the same size rubber and RIM on both front and back yet once I find the pic you will see the rear look larger. Will find the pic now.....

My pick is 16x8.5 - 6 front and 16x9 -13 on the rear with 225/45/16 rubber on all 4 corners.

OK slight hijack but since we are talking about mikuni's My s5 have the cooling bodies on the bottom. These are designed to have the returning fuel (non dead head setup ie a full return setup) pass through the carbs and provide cooling. So Pete and others should I run a return and use this on the track car?

I know of a few people that got Mikuni 44 for around $500-700 NZD aka funny money but that was a few years back now - usually without manifold, requiring work/clean/jetting.

Mikuni's 40's and 44's are a tappered bore - they are 48mm at the bell mouth down to a 40mm or 45mm butterfly - from what I can tell the bodies are almost the same with just the 40mm running a sleeve in the bore of the carb and only bored to the 40mm butterfly at the base of the carb. I guess it would be possible to bore the 40 or 44 mikuni's to a 48mm never seen it done but I believe there was a place in Japan that did something to 44mm mikuni's and made them special. I spotted a set of 50 mikuni's once for a good price but did not jump on them - wish I had....never mind....

What Pete said....and again what Pete said once you have driven a well sorted, well built (head to match the bottom end) you will love the drive they give....hard to drive a smaller CC zed after that.

never a true word spoken. I guess most say they don't rev as they don't build them correctly - ie using heavy rods and basically truck pistons on the top - you go to a stroker for power, so do it right or don't do it at all

There is one issue I see with that.....oil in the cooler will be well cool. So thing is closed no oil into the cooler from the engine....then temp comes up...engine gets all the cool oil that had been sitting in the cooler yet the engine and oil in the engine has been warm....is that a good thing to get a in rush of cool oil x degrees lower than what is in there already?

It is my understanding that most LD28 cracks in oz go for around the $600-800 with most at the $800 point so would have thought 400 is good buying in oz. We are a bit lucky here in NZ as you can pick them up for $100-250 however they are becoming harder to find so the price is going up and mainly due having to get a complete engine.

You are right it is larger than the urethane factory item. I have one of the factory items needs a restore

And that is the real reason most do the black....to lazy to remove the motor, loom, brake lines to do it right, I can understand that just in my opinion, just like you I have one, it is just tacky and takes away from any other good work done on a build. The only black engine I have had in a 240z was a black car.

early stuff had amp not volt even on 260z and s31, I have seen 3 different types of the tall tower too. One like 240z aka open but taller, ones with a cap over the top but no mounts for seat belt bracket or seat belts and the ones with the much larger cap with the 5 welded on nuts for the seat Bertrand seat belt brackets. Exactly what dirt/rust/dodgy repair are they trying to hide with the black engine bay.

240z style tail lights were never fitted to the S31 FYI so that is a retro fit - what I never get is why people paint the engine bays black.

No the blue one is the real deal I was just saying if you were going to make a kit car why not something that is really sex on wheels like the Muira not that ugly Lambo whatever 300zx conversion. The only correct way to do a kit is a space frame so the body can replicate the original body 100%.

Ugly. If you are going have replica Lamborghini then do a good looking lambo and do it dimensionally correct ie space frame and body....something like a miura. Talking of a miura spotted this at Pukekohe race track the other weekend when at the track help a friend with his 240z racecar.

I found the message from Alan who confirmed the R31 filter does fit the stock 280z (HLS30)/Fairlady Z (S31) factory housing I must have been blind when I posted that stuff above. So I will pickup one up soon.

not r-racing but r-factory see here http://www.r-factory.com

right now I look at the pics on a 24" computer screen not the 4" phone screen I see they are not like the group 4/type B flares at all. They are very different. Maybe find the poster of the pics and ask them for details.