KatoKid

Just found this: https://infrastructure.gov.au/roads/motor/design/pdf/14.pdf but the rear vision mirrors only became applicable on 1 Jan 1972. I went looking for First Edition ADR's and found this: The First Edition ADRs were distributed for discussion purposes. However, they were not adopted as a legally binding set of standards under either national or state/territory law. The Second Edition ADRs first came into effect on 1 January 1969. These ADRs were selectively applied under state/territory law. They were subsequently made part of the national standards by Determination No 2 of 1989 published by the Commonwealth Government Gazette (Special Gazette series) No S 291 dated 1 September 1989 https://infrastructure.gov.au/roads/motor/design/second_edition_adrs.aspx My car is a 71 so unless there is something that overrides this like a specific RWC requirement I think I'm OK but still worry that someone will interpret differently!

Resurrecting this just in regards to legality in Victoria. I've got original fender mirrors (thanks Gav) but cant find anything definitive in regards to legality, can anyone point me in the right direction?

I used this guy http://www.parts4cars.com.au/Bolts-Metric/ Bolts are correct JDM automotive with captured spring and flat washers etc. Good service too. David

Hey George....you should have hurried up and done yours first so I could just copy and paste into my thread! Keep at it mate.

Excellent! Look forward to managing wife and cars

Just bought these today from FTG Toyota....still the same $110 price !

Vice grips.....the only way sometimes

Canton, who make all sorts of custom sumps and pick ups recommend 5/16-3/8 inch for most sumps https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/TechPages/Oil_Pan_Accessories_Tech.html

Thanks Mick and Jeff. I should have posted some pics last night but it was too late and cold to go out to the shed! My car doesn't have the two raised captured nuts, nor does the console have the corresponding holes for the front mount. Looks like the rear two screws are the same and my single screw in the rear passes through a little removable coin tray type thingo. You can clearly see where the OP has made extra holes to move the console forward. The only evidence of a front mount of any kind is the marks left where there was what looks to be factory glued on brackets of some kind on both sides? Anyone else seen this before?

Bit of an update.... The replacement top spring perch has a bearing compared to the original one without. I asked Josh why the change and his response: Main reason for replacing the top one with a bearing was to absorb some more top peg shaft so that it didn't poke through, and at the same time provide you with an upgrade. Basically the bearing helps the spring not get compressed when turning the steering wheel which can create a noise sometimes when it springs back.

Yep, good support for sure Jeff. Undecided on strut brace as yet Simon......decisions more for when its registered and on the road

I've searched this and think I know some answers but wanted to confirm..... My car was a bare disassembled rolling shell when I got it so....bear with me here. I dragged my console out of storage to see what sort of condition its in and how it would fit. The car is a 4/1971 but but series two build, it came with a 71A gearbox but the PO had fitted a 71B so the console is smashed up at the front of the shifter opening due to the 71B shifter being further forward so its a bit of a basket case...plus numerous other holes where the PO has moved the console forward to make the shifter position better. So questions: The console is fiberglass, from what I read this is factory? How does the console attach at the front? There are two screws in the rear and and another single screw in the middle of a little tray six inches forward of that but nothing else......there are what looks like two points on either side (on the inside) at the very front where it looks like there was something (a bracket) glued to the console that may have then attached to the tunnel or the dash? Whats the best choice for reproduction consoles? I'm not after originality as the ashtray/fusebox cover are all broken beyond repair so anything that looks good is fine? Thanks. David

Geeze, there's some nice stuff there Gav!

Josh from MCA sent down some "hardware" to space down the strut shaft. Hardware consisted of a new top spring perch with a bearing and a new thicker spacer to go under the pillow ball and a new thinner retaining nut on the top side. I had to wind the shock body down into the lower tube 10mm to compensate but otherwise it was an easy enough job. Adjuster cant be retain but no big deal to keep one in the glove-box and use it as required.

Hahah.......mine were removed by PO many years ago so they haven't had time to brew!

Mine are the originals and still in good nick

Double edged sword......by a basket case and expect to spend a lot and do it properly....or buy what is supposed to be a good car only to find its not so good a few years down the road. I like the building bit, the satisfaction of completing it and knowing exactly whats gone in to it. Buying a car and driving it is OK but I find I get detached from them pretty quickly and sell them on.

Those wheel covers.......

Check with these guys....https://jaydeeautocables.com.au/ they carry a lot of OEM style connectors

Mine is shagged so looking for a good replacement. Car is an earlyish 1970 build but not a series 1. Don't know if there are differences between later 240 and 260's? Thanks David

I'm thinking of removing the tool box lids and making something to go there that can be easily removed with flat mounted speakers.

Pretty sure it was sold?

Pm'ed

I've got a KAAZ 2 way if you're interested.

Thanks Simon. Still way better than friggin around with aftermarket ECU's!