KatoKid

Good stuff. Was wondering where the Jeff's got to!

Sold to a good home!

Awesome Peter. The sense of achievement and satisfaction must be overwhelming. I recall when you nearly packed it in and thought "Noooooooo....you've gone so far" glad you saw it through to completion. Congrats. David

AE82 Corolla Twin Cam hatch, one of the original hot hatches. Bought this for my wife and has been our daily for 25 + years, it’s part of the family but sadly time to let her go. All original car with no accident damage apart from a minor rear end that we never got fixed (perp did a runner) as per photos. 350,000km’s on it but has been well maintained all its life with regular oil changes, engine and gearbox are good. Drives very well, new clutch not long ago, everything works well including the air con. Needs tyres, screen, lenses and oil leak fixed (rocker cover and dizzy O ring) for RWC. Selling as is, no reg or RWC. Located in The Basin. I know it’s not worth much but make me an offer before I put it on Scumtree. David

Hey George. I've got the original board with jute backing that's in pretty decent shape and includes the tunnel. As recognition to the effort and commitment you have put into this they are yours for free if you want to pay freight. David

Looks grouse!

DiaD 2016 is done and dusted: https://www.strava.com/activities/784964065 Got rained on for the first half hour so was wet and cold for a few hours but once we got over the Great Divide the weather improved and the rest of the day was perfect, nice tailwind, sunny but cool. Thanks to all those that supported White Ribbon. Stayed in Deni for the weekend hence missed the BBQ at Gordo's. Cheers.

Been away for work all week so missed this post. Apart from Forgetting the insulation I'm pretty comfortable with what I've done so far and it mirrors Peter's suggestions. Good luck George, just take your time and don't rush it. David

Ceratinly a good way to buy an S54 and gerabox. By the time you sold all the unwanted bits the drive train may owe you 8-9k. Only problem with the S54 engine is that its drive by wire throttle which presents a few issues as the ECU needs to see a lot more inputs from the chassis. There are manual throttle conversions https://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac-bmw-s54-drive-by-wire-elimination-kit--throttle-cable-conversion-p1341.aspx but these require an aftermarket ECU and if you want to go that way you may as well use DBW with the aftermarket ECU as most now support DBW.....but you are adding thousands to the cost plus tuning time on the dyno. There are people who claim they can reflash the factory ECU and remove DSC, EWS and the DBW but you hear various stories of success and its still $1500-$2000. this si the way I would go but you would need to do a lot of research. Also, the Getrag 6 speed is much bigger and heavier than the ZF 5 speed Ive used and I doubt would fit in the tunnel without some mods. S54 is the way to go for sure but a much harder route. Cheers

Thanks guys. Figures arent quoted (that I could find) but everyone says its substantial. It was this or wrap with tape so that made it an easy decision.

Thanks gents, pretty happy with the way it worked out. On to one of those jobs that should take 10 minutes and ends up taking an hour.....I needed to mount the DLC (Data Link Connector) which is the diagnostic port for the ECU. It needs to slip into a bracket that is normally part of the inner guard on the BMW..... which I dont have...... so I had to make a bracket. Got the headers installed with all new hardware. First time I've done this with the brake master/booster in place but it wasnt too hard and certainly no worse than many other header installations I've done! Steering shaft is also connected between the column and WRX rack.

Love it......but Im biased!

Put a lever of some kind between the tie rod and the steering arm, hold some downward pressure on it and smack the steering arm end with a decent hammer and it will come off......in all my years this never fails and Ive never had to use a tool.

Most battery installations dont look so great and a while ago I came across these: https://optimatrays.com/ and really liked the clean and simple look....but it meant buying a not so cheap Optima battery to go with it! The billet tray is a nice piece, well finished and comes with alternative fastening hardware. Just required drilling 4 holes in my battery mount bracket and using suiteably large washers underneath for security. Fuseable links were also another important consideration given all the electrikery in the car and I wanted a neat factory look so rescued a +ve terminal with built in fuseable links from an AE82/92 Corolla at Pick a Part. Main starter cable is direct to the +ve terminal and then Ive got 80 amp to feed the original car harness, and two other links which I can substitute for larger amperage if needs be to feed the ECU and the twin thermo fans. Ive got some ideas which Im trying on how to route make the cabling to the engine look better.

Haha....always looking for an excuse to come up and ride Stromlo...but think I will be busy

Midnight last night I finished a job that I thought would take no where near as long as it did......installing sound deadening is not my favourite job. Once I took the heater box out it was easy to get to the whole firewall but would certainly recommend doing this before you do any reassembly from a bare shell. Used Car Builders based on everyones recommendations and couldnt really fault the product, easy to use but time consuming. I ended up making cardboard templates for pretty well each of the pieces I laid down. I wanted to butt join where possible and didnt want to use a knife to cut once laid down as I didnt want to scratch the paint underneath for fear of introducing an opportunity for rust. Would have been much faster if I did it this way but I wanted as good a job as possible.

Sounds like the perfect weekend!

Combination of my fave show and car...

Same as mine, uses a BA/BF Falcon fuel module with pump and sender built in.

Bling bling! HPC ceramic coated, more for heat management than anything else, but it does look good.

I finished racing a few years before you Jeff......but we shared the same race number!

Those hammer marks are pretty standard, they all have them to some extent. Your a lucky guy, from a rust perspective this would have to be one of the best chassis Ive seen for a while

That's a ripper suggestion....will do the heat shrink for sure! Thanks

Excellent! I have fond memories of 250 Proddy racing

NSR or RS? What year?