KatoKid

Good story. Geeze you really hammered your licence!

Gorgeous....now if only he would hurry up and finish the other half!

Fingers crossed for you Pete......you're paving the way for me!

Had a bit of a win.....word of mouth I picked up a NOS engine bay undertray very cheap!

Little jobs getting knocked over..... Needed to install the steering column but first I had to fix the ignition key barrel which like all the locks was stuffed so all the locks went to the smith for keying alike, general check over and I had a pair of new keys cut for each application. Steering column now installed and the steering lock works now as it was gummed up and full of crap before.

Hey Jeff. No great mystery mate...the BMW engine is canted over more than the L series and the exhaust runs down the drivers side so I had to move everything over to get away from the exhaust. Pic on my test stand probably the best I have. Cheers

Ive seen the same build Mick and agree it looks great....still contemplating...I have to do something with the fuel lines anyway

Hi Peter. Yep, Im aware that VSB is only a guideline but it suited me to quote it as it refers to ADR31 effective date so I was hoping it would work in my favour. All my connection points are easy to get to so no issues there. Calipers and master/booster are from the same car for that reason...and others.

Time for brake lines... Prior to starting this I checked with my engineer in regards to ditching the old brake pressure differential switch and using the Willwood portioning valve. The earliest brake ADR is ADR 31 effective Jan 1977 so our cars aren’t subject to this....but VSB 14 does require that any original equipment brake safety devices not be removed so I would need to retain some sort of brake warning functionality. As an alternative, he suggested I use a brake master cylinder which has a low fluid warning level sensor, and wire that to the warning light and fortunately the R33 MC already has this.... so all good! Brake lines were a time consuming PITA but very happy with the way they came up. Im using the orginal brackets and rubbers and if anyone wants to make new brake lines a little heads up.....the rubbers are not split so need to be slid off the old lines and slid onto the new ones before you make the bends and flare the ends. Brackets are pretty sad so have joined the list of stuff to get plated. Cheers

Thanks Peter for the heads up. Ive bought on of these https://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-260-11179-Proportioning-Valve/dp/B003LT619Q and will mount it in the original loctaion or just under the MC

Bit more done..... I'm using R33-GTST front brakes and have adapted the booster/master cylinder from the same car http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/9734-240z-manual-only-upgrade-to-skylinesilvia-booster-and-1516th-master-cylinder/ For some reason the opening in the firewall is a teardrop shape which is fine when using the standard booster because the back side of the 240Z booster covers the top of the teardrop but as you can see from the gasket the R33 booster doesnt cover it ....and I needed to cover the original top mounting holes (which I kept in case I want to go back to the original booster). I made a blanking plate to go inside between the pedal box and the firewall. Also added a bit of rubber to fill the top of the teardrop. As with everything else the booster got a paint and the MC a thorough clean and check.

Epic post! Well done, I like your attention to detail!

Hey John, I wouldnt say that. Just different builds done a different way. Yours is coming along fantastically and I love the out of the box thinking....mine's pretty conventional by your standards!

Some hours in there John! Looks great.

Good stuff Jeff!

Nice....but really..... for that kind of money little things like bumpers with holes and no rubbers??? I would be expecting flawless at first glance.

Too right....they will look sweet together!

Ditto, had the same issues. Bit of vaseline to ease the way and dont be afraid to use some force!

So gathering some momentum now.... Heater and pedal boxes installed. And now the dash can go in! Spent ages cleaning all the vents a duct work beforehand but they came up well. Dash bolted in really easily...starting to resemble a car now! Yeehaaa!

No need to Lurchos......the other short arm is used to push the under dash clutch master.

Like the heater box, the other box....pedal that is...was pretty grotty. I'm determined to be disciplined during the reassembly and not put anything back on this car unles I'm 100% happy with it so the pedal box got the standard treatment....disassembly, media blast, repair if and where required, paint and reassembly.

So now that the valve clearances have been done I can put the rocker cover back on.....but it needs to be painted first and so does the airbox. Rocker cover is a bit boy ricer but I like it! Airbox ....black is satin black but a bit glossier than I expected but OK. I had to take the rocker cover to Orgers Engines after I painted it to have them skim the logo on the top to remove the paint. They were more excited than I was and actually did it twice as the first time the feed was a bit fast and left machining marks (which I don't mind) but the second time they slowed it right down and it came out nearly polished. And one of how she looked when it arrived for the UK

Only because the mods Ive done are completely reversable, I didnt want to hack up the orginal loom so that at any time in the future if I or another owner want to convert it back to an original car it can be done without too much trouble. Even behind the dash all the original wiring and plugs are still in place, nothing has been cut. Sounds stupid I know but Ive got the matching engine and its a relatively early build so want to retain as much originality as possible....just in case!

Thanks gents. Yes Jeff, MTB hasnt had much attention lately but more because Ive had a stomach bug I cant get rid of....but feeling better today and ended up sprending most of the day digging trenches! Managed to get a couple of hours in on the Z late this arvo. Most of the time went into cleaning the looms prioir to re-taping, I used contact cleaner on a rag which worked well, left no oily residue and the tape adhered well. Only taped the engine bay harness which looks really short and lumpy now as all the original plugs for ignition, strart, charging and oil and temp sensors are in still in place, just folded back on the loom and taped in place as they arent required. The engine bay loom now only provides power for lights, horn, reverse lights, washers and wipers.

Great stuff Jeff. Tanku for the pictures.