dat2kman

To vary the poundage rate on any spring requires changing the spring.it is usually an increase in the diam of the wire, but also changing the number of effective coils. The top 1.25 and bottom 1.25 of coils are pretty much hard stacked, it is the rest of them that count. Also another variance can be the overall diameter of the coil. Steel has a K value, a big fancy number, you enter the rest of the measurements, and the result is the Lbs per inch rating. To alter heights by way of adjustable platforms will not alter poundage rates. The Lo-Cost method , as above, can be achieved using builders Acro prop threaded section! Or threaded tube that plumbers in industrial situations might use. Fitting new inserts in place of stock "wet legs" is a good idea, something like a Koni Red, adjustable on rebound only, or Yellow, adjustable bump and rebound, and you can start to fine tune front to rear weight transfer rates. The aftermarket coilover suppliers do the same stuff, but make it look pretty.

One previous owner, 66000 k's! Well done! What did you pay for it? Would have to be one of the better ones around.

Lurch, The reason why you are so so so skinny, is, You spend ALL your time on here, staring at a screen and just eating popcorn! Has, start saving, report back here in two years time with your bank balance/budget available. Maybe in meantime you may find a 260Z 2+2 as a fixer upper, to be your first Z car. Maybe think about a 240 or a 260 2seat later on.

Get another one, from wreckers, prise black cover off and "feel" for the correct amount of tension/force is required to push flap door. Duplicate by winding more/less. You will definately know if too tight, too loose is a bit harder to feel. There will for sure be some grams per millimetre figure to set it to, in a workshop manual, but try getting the correct equipment to do so!

If looking for SU carbs, models to look out for are HS6 (1 3/4") and HS8 (2") all arepre-emmission type Various Brit cars. Parts and rebuild kits are plentifull. Hitachi licensed SU type, largest was 1 3/4" early ones are pre-emmissions, and perform slightly better than later type emmission carbs, due to less internal passages. Theycan be bored out and a larger butterfly plate made. Setting up a mandrel holder is not hard. All done in a lathe. Experiment on a later type Hitachi, before you ruin a good early one.

How much adjustability do you need? How often will you want to change settings? Simple eccentric hard rear bushes for rear toe/camber, Front LCA's lengthened by xx mm, or crossmember hole relocated by xx mm Longer compression arms, with thread, and washers, for front caster camber. Resetting front and rear spring perches, by cutting off and rewelding back on, for height.or welding on ext threaded tube over strut, use two jam nuts and loose spring perch. Pretty affordable, and there are a few shops in Sydney can do it for you.

2660z close ratio box isnt a race type close ratio. First gear is 2.9:1 Mated to a 4.111:1 diff it wont be an issue. Go for it, it'll liven the car up. Engine at 100kmh road sped will be a few hundred rpm higher.

Call into Stewart Wilkins Motorsport, ask for Tim, they have/had a couple of "fixer uppers" in there. 15 Wingate rd Mulgrave

One from a DR30 Skyline will do the job. They pop up from time to time. Need to keep an eye out.

He's now got Datsun wheels, leave him alone!

What future use/intentions?

The S30's were homologated to run 10" wide rims, with flares, all documents supplied by Nissan, and approved and accepted by the FIA and the JA Someone on this forum has aluded to this paperwork, in past, being used here in Australia to have their big wide fat wheels approved. I have stamped approved copies of the FIA/JAF documents that detail the specifications. They were for 14" diameter rims, but 15" is an accepted diameter increase. 17"s with ultra low profile rubbere is geometrically incorrect for a S30 body/suspension assembly.

uummm, Bucketloads of them. Kumho's, Bridgestones, Yokohamas, Hoosiers, all approved and road legal. Maybe you should use a different tyre supplier to talk to. Ask the qustion a bit differently, and accept their recommendations as to sizes and fitments. " 'scuse me, wot you got to fit a 15x9" rim, widest possible fitment, and talkest, thanks?" Answer, " sir, we can supply fit and balance some nice round black goanna squashers in a 225/60x15, or a 235/50x15, they should fill out your flares nicely." Google up, Hornibrook Motorsport tyres, or Trackside tyres, or Gordon Leven tyres ( qld, vic, nsw guys, who know their sh1t)

Need to work out first, what box you have now. You say 71b from a 260z, it could??, be the desirable 2.9 first gear gearset. To establish this, with the box IN the car do this, Jack up rear end, nice and high, support with a pair f stands. Release hand brake. Remove all spark plugs. Set timing marker on TDC se ratchet spanner. Put car into FIRST gear.. Get somoene to lie under car, put a single dot paint mark on tailshaft, Using ratchet, rotate engine 3 times to TDC each time, if the paint dot does NOT quite get to the original point, you have a 2.9 first gear. If it takes a further 1/3 of a turn PAST tdc to get to riginal point( the dot) then you have a regular Skyline/240k/later260/280zx/Bluebird etc box. And you will very mch enjoy an early 71b box from an early 260z. The usual giveaway to dentify these is the filler plug s on the RHS f the box, it will have a normal slip yoke type output, not a flange Lurch was selling an ex Les Collins fully rebuilt 71b box, iirc it was the 2.9 first gear jobbie.

Just rock up, bear in mind the times on the poster above, but a few always run late. Park it where you like the look f your neighbours. Plenty room, nice big flat grassy area.

Bolt 'em straight on. The little divot for the injectors wont interfere. Be an idea to pirt match, using the gasket as a pattern, to keep air/fuel mixture flow even, without little steps or ledges to navigate.

So, now the 15x9's that need flares might fit the bill after all. No need to buy 40 either, just 4 .

I have a few nice pairs of flares, some Jeans, and some double pleated Fletcher Jones slacks,,,,,,,,,,

Take into account the gasket thickness, Measure a new one, then a used one, to guage amount it gets squashed once torqued/used. Quite ok for a piston to protrude 10 or 15 thou, but at rpm, it all grows out further.

Booking out the whole track? Or just one or two grids? Ie 15 cars per grid/slot.

Just take Ring Road 3, in mddle of day it'd be an easyish run! Yes, OP, most all of us on here are pretty helpfull, when able, but some are just pita to deal with, and give others the Jimmy Brits!

240 or 260 seats ? You dont specify. I have a pair of 260's in off white.

You'll get a readonabl 2+2 for 5-8k 2 seaters, well, a bit more! Where was, and how much, for that 260 you looked at, 3 hours away?

You're in Cabbramatta, it is either DeeWhy ( MIA Engines -Brookvale -James Flett) Or ssSW Motorsport out past Windsor, at Stew Wilkins Either of these are about the nucks duts for Datsuns and Hitachi SU's Easier to get to Stew Wilkins from your place! I reckon MIA may be a fair bit less in cost. Be very explanatory about what it did, what you did, what it does now.

Thats a road registered rally jobbie. The built one for circuit race use only is at Zama. Got some pics of it , somewhere.