dat2kman

Right! Plenty around in 225/50, 225/60, etc, both performance as well as longer life. 15" semis eadier to get than 16's as some on here find. 17's with low profile ie 45 or 40 series, also as some find out, after going that way, give a harsh ride, and due to engineered geometry, are not ideal on older cars, like Z's. You've got flares, you want wide rims that poke out past body shell, you want rubber that will fill out the arch, and fit nicely under the flare without interference. To do that is gonna cost, and there are not that many rim styles or sizes out there that will fill these requirements on an older car, that does not have modern KPI geometry and wider track width on the hub faces, hence the large availability of positive offset, or close to, rims. At a neg 13 offsett, a 9" wide rim will poke out past guards, requiring flares. I can email you pics of that sizing on a standard unflared Z bodyshell. Getting legal road tyres is easy.

Great mechanic!! Better throw a spanner over other nuts/bolts!

When you said " renewed your diff mount" that could have maent, pulling it out, giving it a kerosene bath seeing the rubber is in there and re-installing. Good that you put in a new one! Go over all rear end nuts and bolts, tailshaft to pinion flange, halfshafts at inboard diff end, as well as outboard at stub flange. Nspect moustache bar, undo the two centre bolts/nuts, check under, refit. Drive it. Still there, try the timber wedge, but a brand new diff mount wont have let go! If still there, it will be excess backlash, you'll need a diff shop or a mechanic shop that is able to do diffs. Though backlash is there on both gas on/gas off, as will be lots of other things! Ask around the lcal guys who preps rally cars, a few have come from Cairns, someone will know which shop, head for them. Bottom shock mounts? Lower control arm bushes/mounts? Outer spindle pin nuts? Lots there!

Are you in Cairns or Brisbane? I have here in Brisb, some R180 cw&p's On slght accel/decell, ie on and off throttle, is it clunk clunk, f so that could be excess backlash, this requires the diff pulled apart, the teeth "blued" and a pattern of "wipe" will show, then the side plates and pinion will be adjusted, and pinion crush washers added or removed, to then take out that excess backlash. Thats a job for a shop. Steve at Diff and Gearbox Industies on Newmarket Rd Windsor, behind a Matilds servo can do this. If its a single clunk on upchange, as you release the clutch, ie applying engine torque through to diff, what is happening at the nose, or front , of diff, is the diff is trying to part company with the mount and visit you in the cabin. The rubber band strap, or chain, if fitted, on later models, stops this. Just cos you got under and jiggled, is not the test for a torn diff mount. It needs removing, 30+ years of grease and grime removed, and a close inspection, and replaced, or, the rubber between the top and bottom metal plates of the mount, and re-rubbered. This service is available ex Brisbane, i will require your old diff mount. Also, third thing, the rear moustache bar have been known to crack due to fatigue, rare, but can occur.

Eh eh eh, Jame's twin stock Hitachi carbed 2.6 litre will leave pretty well all these big bore triple carbed jobbies well in his wake.

So, basically this,,,

Some cardboard sheet, couple rolls heavy duty Glad Wrap. I've sent a few that way, never been an issue.

I've got a set f those for him to have a look at. In Brisb.

Where in the ATB centre FAQ's list, does it tell you the answer to"what happens if you lift an inside wheel through a corner, ie off a kerb, or over mid corner bumps?" Yes extreme use, but when pushed in competition, and the majority dont, the operation of the atb/torsen etc type centres is not good. A Detriot Locker is better, in that situation! A number of users of these have experienced issues, and have reverted to the Clutch pack type centre. The ATB types are good, but dont push them hard.

Chis Neale, of Neales Wheels, ex Sydney, is now Wheel Revolution in Brisbane. Both shops can do all kinds of work on rims.

R200 clutchpack Nissan units a far more plentifull, and cheaper. Ex DR 30 Skyline, and stock stubs from 260z and ZX ( non cv shaft model) knock straight in, and your halfshafts bolt straight up. Use a r200 260z moustache bar Watch for halfshaft bind on compression, as r200 is a bit wider Stock dr30 limo units are set quite low, about 40 pound breakaway, they are easily clutched up, for spirited street use, about 70-90 pounds max. But, if you get a cheaper torsen/gear type for r180, go with that. From a Subie, they need the made up outputs.

Peter, Chris Neale at Revolution Wheels in Slacks Creek has the machinery to redrill. Have them done with his steel taper inserts, as these spread the force of the lug nut over a bit bigger area. I have a couple of sets of rims here, but biggest issue is making sore the recessed centre can take a pcd of 120, and give room for the socket over the lug nut. One set have a large enough centre facing, welcome to come by and inspect. Is there any benefit in converting front hubs/rear flanges to a more common size? Comes down to frequency of use vs effort and cost!

Never, never, nup, nope, nada, zip, nuttin, i make little vomit in mouth, And no Ferrari, either!

anything, but NOT a Porker!

I have a nice 280Z, 1975 model, 2 seater, unregistered, has had very very little use since 2004. No rust, no bog, straight body, Some enhancements, Goes pretty well. Located Qld, can arrange delivery. Might be a bit above your budget?

Quick, put it up on evilbay for eleventy thousand Maybe the buyer will see it! Or, serious, ask the seller for buyers contact details, highly doubt any on here would have grabbed the,,,,,,, car!

You okay with paying approx $300 Aud for the inspection lids?

Agree, PI is getting ridiculous! The common majority of entrants, at that event, are subsidising the Internationals, with freight costs, transporting within Aus, reduced entry fees, and the hype and hoopla of a single event. BUT, you've got two meetings at Winton, one meeting at Sandown, and "just up the road" two meetings at Wakefield, along with four run by FOSC also at Wakefield and Eastern Ck, as well as the two at Eastern Ck, run by HSRCA. Pretty well all these are HALF the price of Phillip Island Classic. The two meets up here in Qld, by HRCC, are almost ONE THIRD the cost! So plenty others to do, and a lot less costly than being up the front in IPRA or GT/ProdSports!

Morgan Park Warwick, full circuit 2011 In the 280Z Thanks Lurch for putting it up. Rear of grid start, as i didnt qualify the car, not happy Jan! In this race, set fastest lap for race, and set new class lap record. Finished 4th o/r. Behind three Porsches. Note other cars included 308 and 365 Ferrari's, 427 CI Corvette, and usual Alfas, MG's anda Bolwell, on 10" slicks. This stuff is a lot of fun, and not difficult or very costly to get into. Video here,

The ones that go through me, i mark on the centreplate a code, and keep a note as to what it came out of. There are three different types of internals, over the 6 common various model cars. Also various lengths to the extension housings, and layout of bolts holding the shifter plate down. IMO the better box is the 71C from the S14 model Silvia's, but this needs the tailshaft in a S30 shortened by 50mm. Some RB20det engined cars had two types of internals.

Get some etch primer over those welds! Our wet and humd summer will be a ugga!

Welcome to Australia, Land of trade unions, crippling ex Labour gumbymint rule, No manufacturing industry, and redonkulous prices because we are so far from civilisation. As for rapid service, text us, 'cos we're at the beach!

I'm in Nevada next April, could have some room for a bit of excess baggage!

The engine, of which quite a few were made by Repco, will be "re-numbered" to replace a not so healthy engine, the transaxle is common, eadily dispised of. The body will get used as a plug for a new mould, with a few minor bumps and scallops put into the plug. The chassis will get a few struts/bars altered/re-shaped, and turn up as a newly rebuilt CanAm type car. Or, It'll be used by some rich desert jockey, to show off to his yallah yallah mates, with a re-spray. But deally,,,,,,, the numpty's that nicked it, have dumped it and it will be found, like the trailer! My father in-law was one of the Metallrgists at Repco Engines, who had to put up with this young persistent fellow, who wanted certain things made in a certain way,, the young bloke,,, was Jack Brabham!

I work on principle of, If i have a complete same spec engine, in case i blow the engine in the car,,,, that Irishman Murphy, wont be visiting me! It has same internals and build spec as the race engine in my 280Z, which holds class lap records at a number of our tracks. It has been fully machined and is ready to assemble, ie, a prospective buyer can actually inspect, and confirm it is what it is, as opposed to some "yeah mate, she's fully built to go hard" etc, only to find you bought a stocko bit of rubbish! The racing i use these in has me in top 10, sometimes on outright pidium placings, in many events that i compete in!