dat2kman

I got a set of proper Wata's in 14x9's, getting tyres is a bit tricky, i have Toyo Proxes RA-1's in 225/50x14 fitted, they work well! The not proper Wata's also look just as good, but they just dont have the 3W's logo cast in.

Hilariuos, gettin an old bloke all riled up, sorta know it's naughty, but geez its fun. At least we are rather tame on THIS forum! Organise a Flag to Flag? That should be left to the experienced inowledgable ones!

Roady, your's are the later Spanish made Webers, going by what is fitted, and the minor issues. Batman, you'll need bigger Airs, 45f9 idles, and maybe a change of Emuls tubes depending on where it stumbles, due to camshaft timing. Wide band O2 4 wire and instantaneous digital readout helps, along with a bit of uphill roadway, as flat road/no load is useless.

Show them a copy of the Nissan official documentation that had 10" wide rims, as an approved spare parts option for the Z, along with the approved flares.

I'm furiosly stabbing my finger on the " Like" button,,,,, Oh wait,,,, wat!!

You still banging on about Aero stuff hey? Nothing mentioned here. It must be pretty important, apparently. In Nev's case, along with many many others,, it's no biggie. Plenty of much bigger, and quite different engined cars get registered, used to be very common, nowadays bit harder, requires engineering inspections etc. Some of these engineers are a bit slack, or blind, especially when it comes to hacking away crucial bits of unibody structure, just to fit a whooshbang go-fast turbo. Now, that "Outlaws" class, easy to participate in, open to highly modeed cars, suits the "fast" brigade, hey?

Nev Munt, in his Sports Sedan It's a very rare model, a Datsun 410Z Engine weighs about same at a L series, has more pull than a testosterone riddled schoolboy about to get his first naughty.

How Shannon's used to operate, is now no more. They are a "normal" insurance Co now, shop around.

I have here, in Aus sets of 15x9 in neg 13, Watanabe Type R exact copies, $1200 a set includes pstage to you. depending on your flare width, you could quite eadily fit longer NICE 75 mm wheel studs front and rear, and fit slip on spacers, that would meed to be mechanically attached to your front/rear hubs/drums, using a single c/sunk machine screw into a tapped hole only needs to be about a 5mm thread. That way the spacer will mot become a flying saucer if you lose a wheel. The thickness of the spacer, will have some effect on bearing loading, but then again anything wider than a 175 section tyre on a Z will also effect bearing loading. Race cars have been doing this for many years, different scenario, and they are maintained, as should be yours.

Now don't you get involved you young whippersnapper you! Something about past events costing a fair bit to hire track, low number of entries, and not wanting to take a small loss on the day? Aubrey, As you get cliser, and iron out what the day entails, please let us know! I take it it isn't 15 cars at a time, out for 15-20 minutes doing sprint laps? Can we set up a grid, as rolling start, and run a full on door to door five lapper?? Promise to go gentle!

A 7" with a +20 may get close to the spring perches. Some longer studs and slip on spacers, as long as fixed to the hub via a counterbored hole and a machine screw, into threaded hole on hub face, may solve this.

Lawrence, it will depend on your tyres, a 205/50x16, MAY on a 0 offsett, JUST be OK, but on a 15" with 0 offsett, it will be better. Performance Superlight 8 spoke design is avail in a neg 4 offset, and you then get the backside machined by 4 to give you 0

Aaww, okie dokie, just thought it was for a bit of a roll around the shop type need.

Roller, as in being able to roll it around on a smooth workshop floor? If so i can hire you a front and rear jig subframe, with wind up/down wheels. Can get sufficient height in order to partially work underneath. It mounts onto front chassis rails, no need for x member, seperate rear jog picks up the moustache bar to body pins.

I've actually done it! Ie had a L28 with standard stroke and a standard crank, with a bit of machining, in the correct places, mated to a purpose flywheel and front balancer, it will spin. The stock crank, with it's 120 degree phasing is an inherent unbalanced piece f coat hanger, they break, at certain rpm's. In normal road type use, you will not get to the "break" rpm's , unless you are stupids. They have as standard inbuilt harmonic imbalance, the first occurs at around 3600 to 3800, it is very minor, the engine as a who E can handle it, the secong harmonic imbalance is at approx 7400 to 7600 . That is why the L28 has a set "redline" for rpm, that and the fact the standard induction setup does not allow it to get there. The L24 engines harmonics are at different, higher points, but still there. Once one has actually done it, rather rhan sprout opinions, heresay, he said-she said, and my dick is bigger than your dick, it means very little. To use a strobe, a balancer, and the harmonic reading device, and see how it works, and better yet, how to "move" the harmonic away, so that it is not an sdue is quite interesting. It bevomes a "whole of assembly" think, not just a crankshaft alone! What block it all fits into is irrelevant. After all the bigger the airpump, and that is the " effective" air pump, the more power is produced. By effective, the duration ( opening, closing and length of time in crankshaft degree rotation) of a camshaft, has great impact. But then again, what the heck would I know, i'm just an ex-racecar driver, and Mechanical Design Engineer, with a Fitting and Machining qualification thrown in,,,, who has actually done all this stuff, over the last 30 odd years. Continue on boys!

Hilarious, yes! You lot have gotten so far off on various tangents,,, sheesh! The guy is just looking for basic info on the Z car. It's a case of crawl, walk, then run. But to just "run" first off! Start off with basics, learn, try, test, play, it is a recipe for success and fun!

Ah ok, will pass, too heavy for what i want, but legal for road use, in some circumstances! Thanks.

You've all done a great job in scaring him off! There are, if one looks long enough, and puts time into it, plenty of Zx's and some 260 2+2's that could suffice as an intro to the marque. Sure it'll be a headache from time to time, but so would any other 30+ year old car to own and run. Next time, how about a bit of encouragement. Just how many 1poster's do we have as registered forum members???

Have you had it sonic tested for bore wall thickness yet? That will tell you just what you can get, at thinnest point, you should be keeping at least 3 mm of bore wall, bear in mind you are cutting a radis from a centrepoint in any machining. With sleeves, use a thickwall CDC type that sits on a bottom of bore step, to stop it punching out the bottom. Sleeves work well, and due to higher specific graphite content, give more horsepower. Downside can be water sealing issues, if not done correctly and to tolerances. Could drop a L28 crank into the 24 block, that keeps your matching numbers, run longer stroke, longer rods ex 240, and short height G200 isuzu pustons, with top of piston machined to suit.

Slip on over long studs? Hard alloy? Only the four holes at 114.3? i have a need for alloy slip ons to be redrilled at 110 mm suit Mazda race car.

And anyone trawling through Gumtree or Ebay, have the odd search for the quick sellers, rims, carbs, engine, box, panels etc. And look out for fresh adverts for Tilta Trailer . They will a Ter VIN number by a couple of digits, or fix a plate from another trailer, in order to move it on. Antone been out for a drive around the usual Western and Nth Western dumping sites? Castlereagh forest used to be full of cars, many years ago!

Being the model RX7, i think it is, with thehuge amounts of positive offsets on the wider than stock rims, ( assumption) how they tie the car down for shipping, all it takes is some numpty to wrench the Nth degree out of the severely angled out ratchet strap, and puts excess force on the very inside of a rim lip, thus giving it a bit of a slight "pull out" buckle. The outer lip edge, due to being closeish to the postive offset hub face mount plane, will be a lot stronger, it will be the inside lip edge on the front left, that hit a severe bump/kerb/gutter, and pushed it inwards. It wont be much, 4-6 mm will do it!

I got a Lurch lesson, bought a mig from a retailer up here, Lurch said it was an OK one, using small chuckaway bottles ( dont use it much) But yes, the jolly polarity wire connection has to be changed inside, depending on either gas wire or gasless wire. Catches me out! I recently bought the cutest little wear it like a girlie handbag inverter stick welder, 200 amps, duty cycle not great, but geez, so much easeir to use than the big transformer jobbie!

There are wheel straighteners around, they use a rather large lathe, with a very sturdy mandrel, and a hydraulic ram, to push them back, $125 per is up there, includes remove/refit, balance etc, not too bad! Get the alignment rechecked, as a bucle in a rim could mean its hit a kerb or gutter a bit firmly.

On the LHS of yourr dash binnacle, the moving up and down lights,,,,, engine rpm/shift now ya sill bugga thing? Using Peter Ogden's gear calc program, ( free download) print out the chart, once you enter the parameters. Depending on which gear, you will know, based on rpm, your actual speed. It's a periphery eyesight thing. The last thing you will want is some big thing in your face, distracting you, as you look for the flick wide then tip in, into Caltex. Gear it as you had it for PI, the top speed you should have hit ( i didn't notice your lights flickering!!!) under the start finish line bridge at PI, will be the same speed between second hump and Caltex chase tip in. You go chading top speed, your ability to run up and over the Mountain will be crap, the exit of all bar the five deviations from Skyline to Forrest's, are all uphill exiting corners. Forsake top end, for better corner exit. Bah, what the eff would I know!