dat2kman

Gav, the 2' piece of garden hose trick, to get individual idles right, then pull total idle down. Wind mixtures up/down, looking for smoothness. Check dashpots for correct qty oil, and oil, dont want them fluttering or moving too quick.

Well done, very concise and good explanation.

Run on two cars, very happy, certainly knocks sound down, we have one track here, Lakeside, they are hard on sound, my old system, ( single long packed can next to box, and side pipe exit in front of wheel, blew meter off the tripid. Replaced from header flange back, same diam pipes, but Gonzo, at same dimensions, it got me down under, with no HP at wheels drop. You could get away with twin pipes right back to in front f diff, into a Y, then single under, the two bends, and as long and as large diam as they make, that will fit. Single inlet, single outlet, if want twin, weld on a made up twin tip. My thoughts fwiw.

Thats it, the Gonzo units use a continuos gaint type "screw" rather than the short segments of the Moroso. He makes to order. Operates out of a shop called "Aussie Auto and Mechanical" in Pickering st Enoggera, Qld. He will post Not heard if anyone else in Aus is making them, or similar.

All you blokes, mucking around with hotdogs/resonators, and mufflers, all packed with fibreglass, or splashed out and get stainless steel rovings packed mufflers! GONZO units utilise a large screw bit like an earth auger/kole borer, with a central smaller straight through tube, wrapped in a large can. Theory is it "knocks" the sound waves and quietens the output, without causing backpressure issues. You need gas flow to scavenge exhausts out f each port, backpressure ( too much) stuffs the gas flow rate. Google up GONZO mufflers. Improves power figures on most 4x4's a fair bit.

Lots of bowing, exchange business cards, say " masa-mais" lots, ( thank you) Ask about expirt arrangements, repirt back, And yes lots of photos!

Welcome to come have a look at mine! In The Gap

35 years of hoarding, collecting, buying, selling, knowing what works and what don't! The brain is getting addled, and the eyes don't work much anymore, but i'm still usefull for something, just need to work out what!

510 ones were 98mm.

Whats wrong with King springs? They should have stock on their shelves.

Yes, heve complete turbo oil pumps here. What's up with yours?

Hi! My daughter's boyfriend is in KL at the moment, he could have taken a fuel tank over for you!

I have two here i can sell, in Brisbane. Freight will be the issue! If they still have the under straps, refit, and look to fabricating something in alloy, to fit the hole.

The last one, the good one, the NISMO one,,,,,, I can supply that! Via my very nice friend at Nismo Japan. If you have to ask, you cant afford it! If i was permitted, i'd be running them! Dave W, you reckon that 2.2 as a first gear on standing start is fun, Try an original Option 3 Ultra Close Ratio box, First gear is 1.858,,,,,,,,,,, need a 5.143 ratio diff for that one,,,, but geez, it's a nice super tight box! BTW, my Ultra Close is for sale, if someone is a crazy as me,,,,,,,,

You currently have a 3.54 ratio diff fitted. Just take single steps, try it out each time you change things. Hunt around for a 3.888 or a 4.111 diff. This will improve your off the line acceleration ability. Worry about changing gearboxes or fitting close ratio sets later. The S15 6 speed box, with a 3.6 first gear will be useless, the 2nd gear ratio of 2.2 will be a PITA getting the car off the line. The lag/gap between 1-2 was done for the Turbo sr engine, doesn't suit a older L type atmo engine.

Rb20 box is same length as stock box. Does not need custom tailshaft made! It'll either be a rb30 box from a VL commodore, or a Sylvia box, these are 50mm longer, and just require tailshaft shortening.

Go for a drive On a freeway, Put it in 4th gear, Hold it at 100kmh, same as all other cars, if not sure on speedo accuracy. Make note of engine RPM's. Size f rear tyre? Report rpm's and tyre size here, ie post on your thread. Can calc your diff ratio.

Oh, And forget the Sylvia 6 speed. Go for a S14 Sylvia 5 speed, or aRB20DET box if you feel the need. Your box as fitted now will be fine once rebuilt.

No 4 speed auto! They were a NissanMatic 3 speed. Will need to determine just what the box came from, and your diff ratio. Have a bit of a guess, in 4th gear at 100 kmh, what engine rpm are you doing? What is your tyre size/dimensions.? Can work out diff ratio from that. You say converted to a 5 speed, chances are it will be the 3.32 gearset, which has a big laggy engine rpm drop when you change up from 2nd to 3rd? Close ratio sets are 2.42, 1.67, 1.25,( 1.0, 0.86 ) These are new sets and you get a local Perth gearbox shop to fit to your box, along with fresh bearings, seals, and other items, as needed.

The ratios in the SR and Skyline boxes will also be just as horrible. They are same as later 260z and pretty much all other Nissan boxes. The better ratio box is the 2.9 first gear set as fitted to earlier 260z and 240z. If you want to achieve a more spirty drive, ie close ratio gearset, i can supply you a new set, that can be fitted to the later L series four or six cylinder boxes, as well as the RB20/SR20/CA18/RB30 boxes. Lets start with, Confirm what box you have? Is it the original long 240Z box? If so maybe stick with that, it has the 2.9 gearset fitted! What diff ratio? You say you redline the engine, but you arent happy with the car in the Perth hills!

And i know what zed74 spent on his now very immaculate ultra-lightweight 240 shell!

What'd that job lot cost you?

Op first pist, "Or Watanabe type R" And keeping diams close to std, is easier with fat 15" rubber Original 1970 10" rims were in 14" diam. Tyres no longer avail in that size, hence next diam up.

I can source you 15x10's in neg 27 offset Load rated and JIC Standards approved Replica Watanabe Type R's If the 15x9's in neg 13 are not fat enough

Your original stock rim/tyre 175/70x14 had an o/all diam of 630mm A 225/60x15 tyre will give you 650 mm diam Any taller or wider than that you will really foul on front lower guard lips, and tops of rear arches, the flares you have, or want to fit, are how wide? By using say a neg 13 rim in 9" the rim lip edge will be, on stock hubs, front and back, just at the lip edge of the usual type flares, that everyone fits to the Zeds. The 225 width tyre is a safe fitment, and at 60 series is tall enough to give a natural look, ie not ricer/stretched. You will need to get rear guards rolled at arch tops, and the front lower lip on front guards trimmed. Best of all, dont need any spacers to achieve all this. How do i know this? I have done this using the 225/60x15 tyre, that is quite road legal, and very readily available. If you wanted to really push them out further, and that will really stuff the hell out of your King Pin Inclination geometry, yes you could fit longer studs, ie 75 mm, and alloy spacers that ARE attached to your stock hubs, by way of CS machine screw, so that it doesnt come away if the wheel happens to fall off due to a numpty not doing up nuts. How much are you prepared to spend, on your wheels and tyres? What wheel style do you like? And other style options? Why do you want a very tall or overly wide tyre? Have you driven cars fitted with such, to experience the idiosyncracies of these? ( i have!)