dat2kman

And here's young Les, thinking after he sold the best rally engine prep shop, in the Country, DATRALLY, That he'd be able to semi-retire to a gentle peacefull idyllic Gippsland lifestyle!!!

They are tightly held by the four cylinder brigade.only ridiculous way, is to look around, be patient, and buy three pairs, to then end up with two sets of triples,, retain the better set, and onsell the other three carbs. I'll ask around the Roadster guys, someone may have one of an original pair sitting in a box or cuboard.

One piece, somewhat more substantial, larger shoulder dimensions, greater load bearing capability. Couple of hours to knock up, and then fit with correct preload, using a lathe.

What are they worth these days?

I have a pair of those, For Sale. Message me.

NICE, same thing, around $5-6 each,,,,,

My Mazda RX7 Sports Sedan, No on its way to a Mazda racer/collcto, in Norway! Pic of original builder, Bruce Smith, fabricating the chassis. Note the protective gear,,,,

The olden day method,,, Pull it out, put it into a pot of water, bring it to the boil. Opens,, good. No open, bin it.

Formula V? FF would be a little higher in HP figures?

If you cant pick one up local, I can post you one.

Roger, if bearings "feel" loose, just take 1 thou off at a time, reassemble ( dry) and check, it may take a few dissassemble/reassembles!

I have a complete short shift assy for RB box. (1 only)Message me

Yes they do! Dont use vise grips, if the nipple wont budge, the vise grips will ruin it. Mini stilsons, with their two jaws, properly adjusted to fit the opposing flats, on the nipple, with greater force on handle, will simply squeeze the flats, and not rip them.

In the Gp S car, always had to give pedal a double tap, if not, pedal travel was always further. Discs had no runout, heat buildup was an issue. This was after the stiffening was done.it had a crap pedal beforehand though. The stiffening greatly helped cornering. The flexing, i put it down to, the strut tube to lowercast steel bottom assy joint.

Due to the geometry of the later R31/32/33/34 Skyline, and Z31/32/33 The angles of stub to strut are somewhat different, along with wheel offsets ( these later cars used greater positive offset wheelrims) They can be used but require alteration to LCA's, tie rod lengths, and compression strut. Which end up giving you further headaches trying to then get bump steer, alignment etc, and grwater pissibility of turn/toe in-out, on bump and droop. The closest one could be the strut/knuckle assy from the S13 Sylvia. The S14 Sylvia gets "worse" for use on a S30 chassis. Dogbones, wedged and braced struts, and bearing/stub support tubes, will be easier!

Before fitting, the tie rod end was 5mm from rim lip on inside.A few hard laps, and rim lip had gouges, and tie rod end had alloy build up. After fitting stub bearing spacers, and the plateing between caliper mout bracket and strut tube. No more 5mm foexing of the rim lip onto stub. Yes it works. Also have fitted same to the Sports 2000 stubs, as old original stubs, one had snapped, other had hairline crack forming. They flex

If,,,, if,, they are just too tight, and the flare nut spanner, with a fast sharp smack of the palm, doesnt do it, Grab a 6" Mini Stilsons from a plumbers tool supply. These will work!

Sometimes you can be very lucky, and the spindle pin puller will work fine. A little bit of heat, ie hand held butane torch, can help a lot!

Sounds familuar! Easier to grab two x four-packs of NICE froma Bursons/Repco! Check the Nice pdf catledog though. If the nuts are Acorn capped type, you'll need to make sure that not only the 37mm have enough threads engaged, ( recommended is 9 x rotations of the nut, before snugging up) but, at 44mm the stud may bottom out in the closed nut. Re fixing spacers, if a neat slip fit over the four studs, you can get away with just one only countersunk machine screw M5 or M6 drilled/tapped into the hub.

Taller impeller gives approx 15% greater Vol, this is sold as a "280ZX-T" pump. The springs are all standard. Nissan Comp did an Option spring, that fits inside the standard spring, to cause pressuer relief valve to stay closed until a higher pressure was obtained, this will put extra wear on drivespindle gears. An old simple trick, pack approx 4-5mm of washers into the large hex nutted screw, cap, this puts a bit more force onto the spring, increses press relief opening by around 6-8 PSI Use feeler guages to check if impellor is within tolerances, and for end float. You can use a sheet of 1200 grit wet/dry, to polish out any scoring on ends of housing, this can reduce the end float a bit, which increases vol/pressures. Place 1200 grit onto a sheet of glass, use a figure 8 motion and a little 10 weight sewing machine oil.

I dont have a NICE catalogue handy, post up a link or pic of the page/s that have the 1.25x12 studs. It should ay " suit Nissan" etc, there'll be a couple, plus the75mm long studs.

Press in. Need to make sure the knurl diam is same as regular. There is a 44 mm long? stud avail, from Nissan, this was for the 4wd Patrols. Yes standard ones are a bit short. Watch your lagalities/insurance with slip on spacers. Where possible, mechanically ( counter bored machine screw) affix the spacer to either your hub, or, to backside of rim. That way it does not become a flying saucer if wheel comes off.

Got a set of H/D used valve springs here, can pack n post, $140 total Plenty of life left in them! Also sets of stock springs, still at original free heights ( weak/tired springs will be shorter heights)

Try some of the tool supply/nut-bolt supply type shops, for what is called Booker Rod. Fully threaded, it may come in smaller sizes?

See that phone number in the advert ?