nat0_240_chevZ

SkipZ, they are about to, as there has been, finally, a reprieve from workshop moves of late, amongst other interest in these and other parts of late. Its been a busy last year, with the arrival of my first child, Workshop re-location (which was a nightmare), but now to a much nicer workshop where I should be able to excel, the old place was holding me back a little....... Note to others, these will be finished, I was very close to a 'sale-able' product previously...but was distracted with the 260z lower inner above in this post, to finish a front end I needed as a donor. Nat0

There Were also the trusty 1600, 180b, 200b and a couple more which came with a factory 4 speed...........

you can also use the aw11 rack, later PS model, and the ae86 corrolla PS on imports. Im also told there is a quite new/modern corolla you can use, abundance of availability, but yet to confirm. Nat0

yes awesome car, Mark went to the dark side im afraid....the german things that go fast backwards and forwards.... yup, Porsche!!! all the best to new owner....

im all for regulation (but not total a 'controlled' car), and bringing the cars back to earth, I know f1 is the pinnacle of the sport, but if we want maximum horsepower from cars, then go and see top fuelers at the drag strip. By cutting back the'r engines and other aspects of limitations, actually 'makes' them improve the technology and engineering, which is why the rest of the automotive has come along as far as it has. We are finally seeing F1 tech in our road cars, and allbeit only a small amount, this is what F1 has always been about. The endless budgets, trial and error, ingenuity and pushing things to the limit. Only because these guys 'can' do it, do we see the gains, it wont be long & they will be lapping as fast as they used to. Oh and I also remember when they ditch the 1.5l turbo engines waaay back, and went to 12's and 10's, bring back the turbos i Say! Remember when the moto-gp went back to 800's, took the teams a while but it wasnt long untill they were lapping faster than ever before...perfect example of scaling back the size/output for a better result. Also there is some environmental requirement to push with F1, otherwise electric cars will never advance like the IC engine. One day soon we may see the new electric cars out performing all if the technology is developed by F1. Good to see the aussie lad starting from 3rd Pos'n none the less. nat0

internal cavities, better option, but more $$$, is lanolin oil. look it up for a bulk 4l is about 200$ from memory!!, still very thin too!!! but yes, phosphate or chromate based etch primers, are your best friends, accompanied by epoxy primers. nat0

MY BEST ADVICE........ www.baggagefreight.com.au what can I say these guys ROCK!!!!! fill in you quote details, size weight and postcodes, or ZIP if USA, hit the quote button and wait 30-60 secs, you Will have multiple offers from multiple carriers, of which, all WILL follow through with your shipment. pick the best price and/or the best service and its ready to book. they are freight brokers, so will offer you all the big guys and some of the lil guys. nationally I tend to use TNT or toll, although im sure everyone has a bad experience with at least one of them, but take your pick, like I said you will get multiple offers for any given quote... enjoy......oh and yes they are based here in Australia, Kilkenny here in Adelaide i later found out when they asked me if i wanted to sign up as a trader/account holder.... hope they serve you well. Nat0

paging freddy! the rafflle sounds great, if your in the states..... but otherwise, would like some ch overlay's, just putting it out there. Nat0

Yea, bit of an issue, I didnt bother with it, as i can make new ones easy as. one is already gone to scrap, the other i think is on my scrap metal pile, small changes req'd to make them micky mouse.... But ill probly go the other direction, the one i was going to stick with as above mentioned, much smaller, much lighter, much easier to install (and remove) and just as effective.. nat0

The best noise I have ever heard from a six, is with a titanium exhaust & rear muffler. I bought an r34 with a turbo back steel dumper, into a de-cat pipe also MS, then titanium there back, made the most throatiest noise you have ever heard, albeit turbo, but 'everyone' who knew me, knew they had just past me, even when not gassing it hard. Its a very distinct note whic is pure Sex, when it comes to exhaust notes, nothing like it. the rolling growl it makes as it wonds up, you think it about to stop, then keeps on screaming...... What can I say, but gues what exhaust im building for all my future cars.....yup going to be expensive!!!! Nat0

Very nice billy, Glad some of my parts helped you to continue the life a much loved family relic. cars mean so much more with even a lil history. She looks very sleek, love this colour, love the stance/wheels etc. cheers Nat0

kins std height are a linear coil, grab some and lop half a coil off them, this also makes them stiffer again... have you looked at the top isolator size/height? if you happen to have the really tall ones, you could swp out for the slimmer 240z front items, which drop 1.5' alone!!! nat0

yes def different. 240s have a 2 inch or so offset forward from the swaybar mount/pivot between the 2 bushes 260z not, is straight. The above I can confirm, id tried it previously, but other way around. the 260z mounts appear further forward, 240z on and inline with the front diff cross brace in the floor, 260s more infront. Not 100% confirmed but i think the bus and the coupe bars are the same or very similar. 240z rear sway/anti-roll bar bar pic note the forward offset between the mounts. (top one in pic) 260z rear sway/anti-roll bar bar pic note the forward section further forward between the mounts. (longer arms) nat0

pm'd an extensive response to damage, I think it needs to be pulled first, as some of this area is quite salvageable, otherwise im on the hunt for some pieces for you!!!! will let you know what I still have available next week. Nat0

Karl, have you had a search through the forum? there is a car in ballarat for parts, or otherwise maybe this might help?? http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,12469.msg128749.html#msg128749 nat0

James, the original cardboard units are effectively folded and stapled, im sure a replacement can be made at a cost from any of your desired materials. Nat0

PM'd, would like to see these go large!!

Gday chaps....will do my best to attend......been a tough slog in the lead-up to chrissy this year.... Ill do the bogan thing and bring a slab of piss along. nat0

Farewell Peter, legends will never be forgotten! you left your mark wherever you went. nathan

from memory, i thought the old Gemini rack ends inc tie rods were? compat? i have both cars, I did change them ages ago, and forgot to check out myself. i bought from repco for 11.00$ each inc, but ill have to get one off to check and confirm. as its only from an old contact of mine whom mentioned this. So DO NOT TAKE this for gratis!!! nat0

Go easy on the porn mick!!!

Thanks Sinisha, yes the last set, Well available set anyways, as the LAST set is going on mine.... Please pass on my thanks for the pix, to Andrew from Trackart. I look forward to the final pics of the job. so far so good, let me know if you require any more, or need engine bay rails. Are you also getting the Gearbox crossmember mounts reo'd similar to gordon? cheers Nathan

palm sander is the best description as it fits nicely in your palm. I bought as i used a ripper of one, both @ work and a mates at my workshop, Dynabrade. its the 5.0mm orbit, used for finishing up, (well before pre paint) but by all means you will still need to hand block everything. there is a 9-10mm orbit but this is for really hamering the panels, ie i dont and dont know anyone except a panel beater with one. Carefull with the palm sander as some people tend to dig holes with them leaving massive lows...... use these to get through your grits, but a flat hand block is always req'd at some stage. -board file grits 36-180/240 -palm sander from 240-400ish -block wet sand from 600-1200 (depending on colour and finish as to what you stop at) **These are what I and many around me use, but by all means is open to every individuals opinion, everyone does it differently!!! Milwauke also do a nice unit, as does shinano, but the cheap jobbies off ebay will suffice im sure.. Make sure you get the velcro hook and loop as these discs are QUICK as to change, dont stinge on using discs, get 3-5 mins flat out using one but if you hit steel for too long, change it. best brands of discs i have used yet are without a doubt the green 'sunmight' brand, they also do wet'n'dry as they are plastic backed unlike most others being paper. if you get a palm sander with vacuum extraction, you can just run a vac or dust ext machine and almost be dut free. if you dont care, like most in the trade, just let it spew into the air.... if you use extraction the hard pad, velcro and sanding discs ALL need the same hole pattern My suggestion is stay well away from Stick on backed discs, THESE SUCK, go the velcro hook'n'loop (furry backed discs) But take it as you will, ive learnt the hard way, until i then got put on track by lots of different tradies i work with, (@ my workshop and @ wk) Take the best bits of all the advice you get when it comes to paint n panel, its a whole nother world.... Nat0

Yup, Definitely.........its the flux capacitor!!!

?? Stop Driving on the footpath!!!!