nat0_240_chevZ

Nice. I believe i have a couplenof those badboys floating around, 1 at least in my toolbag..... Id pass on the decal but thats me. Never even thought! Nice work! Nat0

Try pressure pumping walnut shell, hand cleaner through them. The non solvent stuff. Diaphragmatic pump or piston. Then to be flushed thoroughly with solvent, of course...... Try it out on small scale first to ensure desired results are achieved... Or otherwise sand from lake McKenzie, fraser island in a sand / water slurry. Lol just got back from holidays ? Nat0

Try this. Forget the degree marker for a bit. Car runs, right? Rotate dizzy till revs pick right up, then drop back a bit till revs drop down to say a high idle, 1000rpm. Then check with light, no vac adv... What does it read on your degree scale? If a weird number, check scale plate and pulley havent been changed. And ensure dizzy is suited, yes later dizzy have the differently orientation bodys, which could also be cause for your confusion. Eliminate the whoopsy factor first. Has the dizzy been apart? If so who? When etc. Need to eliminate the possibility of a bumsteer first....

Sounds like vacuum supply to dizzy on on the wing side of your throttle blades, ie between throttle & head, not pre throttle.... Check this! Otherwise something more sinister.. Only as speed increases? Ie mech advance (vac disc) or throttle posn. I thought you said mech advance appeared to be working? Nat0

Mmmm an interesting read, some great sources of information posting on this thread but appears to be no inkling of advice offered, heard. Probly the best question of all..... How do you like obsurd amounts of bump steer with your coffee? And what measures /mods do you envisage you'll do to alleviate or negate it and other, lets say, induced geometry concerns? Parts lego, is only half the issues at hand. Dreamproject also sums up the first post, but not the responses to the offered advice /suggestions. As that was what asked for.... Spectating from the bleachers. Nat0

I have put a mech 2way cusco diff in an open r200. Had 13mm bolts, yes m13, no bs. From an r33 Gtr. (a very unusual size) Viscous can /will work if you desire. My suggestion is stick with mechanical. Finding a precision diff professional, is very hard, have had some run ins with so called pros, whom i collected my diff in pieces, and performed mods my self, then got local engineering shop to check the mesh/alignment and lash. Otherwise all your hard work and cash ends in the bin. Be prepared to pay money for the work, it's pretty delicate stuff, very fine tolerance, which a good machinist or engineer can only appreciate. My need for a 2way, was behind an auto v8. Still ran orig uni-joint outputs, but shafts had subtle mods to suit. Later swapped to cvs, (no reason other than want, ie no breaks) these also reqd, the same subtle mods to the output shafts. Nat0

Pricey, PM replied, Apologies. Nat0

Floor rails, may not suitable for your car bud. Pics reqd, to confirm. Pretty sure i responded to one of your PM's. If not ill post again. I Have a couple of floor rail sets in stock again. Cheers nat0

Any pics GH? May take 2 or 3, as i have a few lights.... Nat0

Mmm watching closely! Nat0

Try metalcorp, a retail outlet of bluescope, look them up. MightyM same for brice/surdex, here in SA. There are a few diff grades id nominate. I prefer zincanneal, for corrosion resistance initially, but on a weld seam will sand coating off a little. Then either brightform or CA2/cold rolled for clean steel. If a structural area, i use a higher spec material upto a grade 450mpa, can get 550 but is very brittle in comparison but exactly what it's for. Doesn't form easily, and may need to Sand off the galv as its a full galv sheet. Try local sheet metal shops for offcuts or half sheets. Nat0

Hey pricey, You will need to confirm, with pics if possible, the existing floor rails. PM me once you have had a chance. Nat0

What gbox is it exactly? From what model /year of car? Cheers nat0

Reason for sale? Any indication on the volume? Did it leak? Cheers nat0

Ah, figured as much. But i am going to tullamarine, I did search but this was the one that came up. If i cant search and find it, what hope do we have, didnt want to start a new thread..... If you found it, are you able to flick the link up? Cheers for your help!

Heading to Melbourne from Adelaide, by car and return with a car and 4x4. Anyone needing any freight run to or fro? Alternatively any vics after any floor rails with free delivery? Send me a msg as heading out sun night, back in adel Monday night. Have a wagon, so a fair amount of room avail.

Edit: not going to fix the angle brkts you need, sorry. I was able to use the s13 rails. Nat0

I feel your pain. I went through similar thing. I bought some nice subtle looking recaros from s13, had a beatch of a time with sourcing anything to bolt in. So i designed, and produced, a low profile mount which slots the recaros i have and any similar in as low and rearward as possible. Luckily the 1st prototype i made fitted perfectly, so i knocked up a whole bunch in stainless steel. Just need to fold the extras up. Attached Seatbelt mounts to follow on my own, but you can reuse the s30s std mounting if you desire, as the seat mounts are not designed as restraint anchors. I have pics of seats bolted in, and with my 6'2" mate sitting in, he just fits in. Im all good @ 5'9?

Im checking to see if i brought some in for another chap her in SA. ill check and respond with pics....

Double post. Sorry, android!

Hey scoota, i forgot about this thread. If you make a stack and wanted the nuts Welded on for you I have access to the correct equipment currently set up for an M6 square weld nut send me a p.m. if you need I do believe these are an M5, off the top of my head but it has been a long time since I've even seen my car. All youll need to do is drill the hole out. The setup used on our pedestal spot welder, with a dengensha insert, keeps the nuts centred on the hole whilst blasting away the cnrs with a hot pulse. Just incase you have the need. Nat0

Try musclecarparts.com

Ive used precision at eliz. Had mixed results. But speak to jason 8287 5555. I use aclass regilarly.for hi spec defence.work and the certainly charge accordingly. My machine shops get all zinc and chrome plating in Melbourne. Done for half the price including freight

Hey champs. Your looking after your health re using trivalent Chrome not hexavalent? Not that you need to be rohs compliant but just for your own safety. Your results look really good. I can advise of our local chem suppliers for chemical and supply needs, they are adelaide based but i think have other branches interstate, will have to check. Just shoot me a pm. Cheers nat0

I did the 2011 TL xtrail Top of range.but turbo diesel variant. The manual has 2000kg tow plenty of torque Plenty of room. The xtrail was selected over the subaru forester and vitara after listenimg to a dealer to try it. And we did. Although didnt buy from them but bought from wa the exact model and trim we wanted ie top range in full leather with massive sun roof. Leather is young family proof! The xtrail is really good off road. But not quite a pajero or landcruiser. I want to upgrade to a v8 or v10 vw toeareg but price for servicing does bother me. Only consideration now is a newer pajero not sport or the fj cruiser as both these cars have heaps of offroad potential as has been proven every time we go out. The land cruisers and patrols are nothing on what they used to be when they both ruled. Too bad though. Price range wise. A 2012 or newer to 2015 pajero would be a great choice. Trust me the size difference.is.almost nothing diff to the xtrail just 10mm taller. And the paj does have as good as turning circle. My mate and i always are comparing as to try and make the upgrade a pre approved decision by the boss! And she was sold after deiving it once, her thoughts were its is higher. And its no bigger than the xtrail.... Nat0