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I think I’ve seen this one pop up in the past before. Non-matching, but seems like a very reasonable price for a complete, and straight, 240Z. I don’t think it will last long. 1973 Datsun 5 speed manual 240Z Melbourne Victoria Price: $39,500 *Negotiable* Description: Dry stored for many years - Starts, runs & drives nicely Owner is selling duel to poor health Please Call Colin 0409 954635 Body number HS30 100465 Engine # L26 106092 Good solid car. No evidence of any crash repair or rust in the floor or chassis rails. Panels are straight and relatively rust free Vented bonnet Paint work needs attention Dash is cracked The original seats have cloth covering The original console is broken Suspect there is a little bit of old rust/filler in the dog legs in front of the rear wheels Overhauled & tuned original Japanese HJG46W Hitachi 1-3/4 44mm carburetors Original 240Z air filter box Reconditioned Hitachi OEM alternator with external voltage regulator Fresh Penrite oil, Cooper filter and corrosion inhibitor 280ZX high energy electronic ignition system NGK BP6ES spark plugs Original cast iron manifold and quiet exhaust Near new aluminium radiator New correct oil sender Low pressure electronic fuel pump upgrade Reconditioned Warner syncro FS5W71-B 280ZX 5 speed gearbox & late slip yolk tail shaft Was originally an automatic New heavy duty clutch & master cylinder Quiet original R180 diff New brake master cylinder Reconditioned booster Calipers & wheel cylinders overhauled New fluid New door locks Straight bumper bars with new rubbers Firmer coil springs Original ride height - not lowered Presently on non transferable club registration No roadworthy Sensible offers invited - Lowballers will be ignored Heaps more photos available upon request Overseas shipping is available We have a discerning agent Location: Burwood, Victoria Link: https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/burwood/other-automotive/1973-datsun-5-speed-manual-240z-melbourne-victoria/1297501269?utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=ios_VIP&utm_medium=social&utm_source=com.apple.uikit.activity.copytopasteboard

Onto the LH floor - I worked out the cost for new KFVintageJDM floor pans + freight + installation, and the figures said it was going to be cheaper to fabricate & install patch repair panels: I'm not taking credit for this - it's Graeme's handywork.

MX30 Cressida is the true Japanese volvo lol especially in a wagon. I would love one with a 2JZ

Try two…. lol I like the term time vampires! So true

Hi guys, Will be spending some time here as brother David (Kato kid) and I embark on a new project/build titled, LOLvo # the little red wagon that could. I know it’s not a Datto, but it will be a bit of fun all the same. Cheers Tim.

No, no it isn't haha. Especially after having a child. Time vampires.

Yeah I’m sure you’re right, it’s just demoralizing every time I look at the car lol I think the answer is getting 4 of them like you gav, I think that’s the go…. Better start pampering the wife…

I drive a Japanese Volvo, of course I'm excited.

Thanks to @AndBir and his mate Darren in QLD for the pre purchase inspection this turned up at 7:00 this morning...... This will be a collab with my brother Tim, he can intro himself sometime soon. We've both built quite a few cars and decided that it was time we did something together with the aim being to do drag and drive type events. LS with a big single, TH400 and 9inch Paid $1900 for it, runs and drives beautfully for 319,000kms. Had it on the hoist alreday and cant believe how soild it is.......genuienly not a spec of rust...and I know about rust! No accident damage and paint is just oxidised but some patina that we will keep. This will be an on the cheap slow build, buying parts as they come up at the right price...hopefully

RH footwell: Then the rails were removed: Also the RS30 LH sill (which we'll be modifying), floor rails and bonnet hinge gussets arrived from @kfvintagejdm:

Thats a matter of opinion!

You really need to see these cars in person to evaluate the body on them. Someone is always selling a sandblasted shell in epoxy after discovering the car was more far gone than anticipated. IMHO it's better the devil you know. Once you've started, if you keep looking for a better starting point. You end up finding a car without your current cars issues, just another set of issues your current car doesn't have. Given they are 50 years of age now, it's a given they need everything.

Yeah this is what I have read in various sources, the guy I’m looking at using does purely car bodies and he does all the work for one of the classic car Resto outfits here in perth. I’m removing all the flat large surfaces prior to blasting so that should be ok.

Ahhhh, the marginally better looking brother has arrived...

I watched a few of there videos with my guys just now at lunch. He had some very strange idea's on panel beating and panel shrinking... Media blasting is fine if the blaster knows what he is doing. Both of those guys have obviously had operators that didn't know what whey were doing. My recommendations: 1. Use an media blaster that does car body's a LOT & look at his work. If you don't like what you see, find someone else. 2. Don't blast sections of bodywork that are large and open, and away from body/swage lines. Mechanically strip or chemically strip that areas instead. Chemical dipping is far more risky and costly IMHO. There has been more than one car destroyed because the acid wasn't neutralized correctly... Wray does lovely work, but his idea's on pattern making are not my cup of tea - we just use brown paper.

Whoever buys it should remove those hideous wheels ASAP

Another couple of channels I have been watching are Silvester Customs https://www.youtube.com/c/SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS and Wray Schelin's pro shaper https://www.youtube.com/c/proshaper These guys do next level body work. Both are dead against sandblasting, which is interesting. Wray talks about the micro-pitting and warpage, as does Silvesters. I wonder if there are rogue sandblasters in the US that smash the cars with ball bearing sized pellets of sand or something, because the C.A.R results look pretty solid in the photos and he seems to sandblast.

SO this is why you have been sending me lots of Volvo wagon videos lately! @KatoKid Dave, you have excited @gav240z a bit too much, even it you are putting an LS in! haha

Yes watched this one, I like his videos.

Hey mate, check this vid out - he's attempting to get the undercoating off his US 280z using a variety of techniques. Its entertaining...

I have a blaster coming to look at the car this week that was recommended by a restoration shop. He’s going to assess the undercoating and if he can remove it with blasting, otherwise I will have to strip it. he has said he can blast the car while it’s on the chassis frame which is awesome. He can lift the whole thing with chain blocks to access underneath. Downside is he’s booked till march next year….. This whole time I have just been trying to work towards just getting this damn thing blasted and in epoxy! and with the severity of the rust and lack of structural integrity I wasn’t confident putting it on a rotisserie until some of the more structural rust was repaired. I have decided to pull all the panels off to expose all the interior sections that I know will be rusty as hell. I’ll remove the entire rear valance, rear quarter panels, roof skin. I have a few other panels I’m considering too like the front panel of the tool compartment and top wiper cowl panel. There’s a lot of rust in both those sections. I started experimenting with a few mechanical ways of removing undercoating used a oscillating multi tool with a scraper attachment as recommended by @CBR Jeff, on my undercoating it was not overly effective. First photo was just the tool and second was tool followed by a knotted wire wheel. most effective way proved to be a strip it disc, makes quick work of it. the oscillating multi too and scraper worked well on some of the sound proofing sections. but not so well on other parts yay more rust…. while I had the strip disc out I wanted to see what was under the paint on the rear quarters……there were lots of layers and much bog, I dared not do more…. started stripping the rear slam panel as I will need to unpick it, some quality repairs from previous owners. Just a couple of tacks and she’ll be right…. Also managed to knock off the rest of the second rotisserie frame. Now just need to finish the rear mounting assembly and the rotisserie will be done and ready to use when the time comes…

The area around fuel door was rusted through, so I fabricated a new section to replace it: Yuck...:

Volvo built to last forever, but they are a ugly little thing. My Dad had a green 1980 240, I can still remember the smell of that car lol True story, my mum made him sell their XY Falcon to get the Volvo lol.

Spot on @C.A.R.!

I must say the new Z has appeal in a market with limited options. But it will never be as legendary as the original. I recall people "trading up" from 240z's to buy 350z's in the early 2000s. How did that work out?

I would think of it like this: Will somebody who currently wants a 1970s sports car with timeless design, simple and effective mechanics, big noises (including some rattles), no creature comforts and something that turns heads and stirs up nostalgia - also be considering the new Nissan Z? My bet is no.

Not unexpected if it has. Two schools of economic thought: 1) Interest rates are set to rise sharply which means people sell off toys and holiday homes to reduce and consolidate increasingly hard to service debt. That coupled with the fact that money (for toys) will be more expensive to borrow means that there is not the same number of players looking to enter/stay in the classic car market thus pushing prices down. 2) Alternatively, as property gets more expensive to debt service their relative values either plateau or decline which means that people look to assets, other than property, to invest in such as shares or classic cars etc. This may in turn cause inflation of the classic car market. it does appear that we are on the verge of experiencing situation one though. But if you don’t have to sell in the oncoming period then don’t. Situation 2 will roll around soon enough and inflation will move your car values north by default.

Hi guys, I've split these posts into a new topic to keep the for sale thread, a for sale thread. Otherwise feel free to continue. FWIW, I found the RB26 feels very similar to the L-series motor in terms of being a straight 6 and the overall sound/feel. So I think it's a good swap option. I personally think an RB25NEO (w/26 covers let's be honest 25 covers look crap), and a high flow OP6 turbo and Nistune ECU would be really a really economical option that would easily make 350-400hp and in a Z would be plenty fast. If there is 1 thing I think is required in a an S30Z these days it's aircon and most 240z's didn't come equipped with that originally (some home market cars had it) but many are later dealer options, but I want to drive my classic and be comfortable too. With the way our summers are these days I think although aircon adds to the clutter of an engine bay it's worth having.