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  1. C.A.R.

    Micheal's Bent Bus

    RH footwell: Then the rails were removed: Also the RS30 LH sill (which we'll be modifying), floor rails and bonnet hinge gussets arrived from @kfvintagejdm:
    6 points
  2. C.A.R.

    Micheal's Bent Bus

    Onto the LH floor - I worked out the cost for new KFVintageJDM floor pans + freight + installation, and the figures said it was going to be cheaper to fabricate & install patch repair panels: I'm not taking credit for this - it's Graeme's handywork.
    6 points
  3. I have heard before "opinions are like arseholes, everyone has one" - and especially for the sake of values.. it's easier to simply ignore everyone unless you know for a fact that they are a buyer and going to contribute to the hard stats that one craves when assessing values. It's equally silly to isolate one sale of a car that you (perhaps) haven't seen in person and don't know the true condition of. Was it solid? Or quite the opposite? Did the owner understand market value or did they under-sell it? Data should be looked at collectively, otherwise it can tell you anything you want it to.
    4 points
  4. The area around fuel door was rusted through, so I fabricated a new section to replace it: Yuck...:
    4 points
  5. Sorry for the lack of updates, been away with work and generally busy. some nice little updates/new parts: had a really strong fuel smell in the garage. Turns out the fuel sender unit had finally given way and was allowing for a slight fuel weep through the terminals, so bought a new genuine one from NZ Datsun parts. Plus a locking ring and a new seal. Also, I noticed that there was a fair smell coming from the fuel door area. The fuel cap looked alright but I had no idea it had a pressure release valve on the underside. The rubber seal on this spring loaded valve had rotted (see photos). So ordered a new genuine fuel cap…you can see the difference. Mounted the mic for my new retrosound stereo. It’s not hidden but I think it works well and gives clear comms and eliminates the fuse box cover rattle/jiggle we all experience on rough roads. Finally, had issues with the park brake light actuation switch. So bought a new genuine one from the states. Fitted and works a treat!
    3 points
  6. I think I’ve seen this one pop up in the past before. Non-matching, but seems like a very reasonable price for a complete, and straight, 240Z. I don’t think it will last long. 1973 Datsun 5 speed manual 240Z Melbourne Victoria Price: $39,500 *Negotiable* Description: Dry stored for many years - Starts, runs & drives nicely Owner is selling duel to poor health Please Call Colin 0409 954635 Body number HS30 100465 Engine # L26 106092 Good solid car. No evidence of any crash repair or rust in the floor or chassis rails. Panels are straight and relatively rust free Vented bonnet Paint work needs attention Dash is cracked The original seats have cloth covering The original console is broken Suspect there is a little bit of old rust/filler in the dog legs in front of the rear wheels Overhauled & tuned original Japanese HJG46W Hitachi 1-3/4 44mm carburetors Original 240Z air filter box Reconditioned Hitachi OEM alternator with external voltage regulator Fresh Penrite oil, Cooper filter and corrosion inhibitor 280ZX high energy electronic ignition system NGK BP6ES spark plugs Original cast iron manifold and quiet exhaust Near new aluminium radiator New correct oil sender Low pressure electronic fuel pump upgrade Reconditioned Warner syncro FS5W71-B 280ZX 5 speed gearbox & late slip yolk tail shaft Was originally an automatic New heavy duty clutch & master cylinder Quiet original R180 diff New brake master cylinder Reconditioned booster Calipers & wheel cylinders overhauled New fluid New door locks Straight bumper bars with new rubbers Firmer coil springs Original ride height - not lowered Presently on non transferable club registration No roadworthy Sensible offers invited - Lowballers will be ignored Heaps more photos available upon request Overseas shipping is available We have a discerning agent Location: Burwood, Victoria Link: https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/burwood/other-automotive/1973-datsun-5-speed-manual-240z-melbourne-victoria/1297501269?utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=ios_VIP&utm_medium=social&utm_source=com.apple.uikit.activity.copytopasteboard
    3 points
  7. C.A.R.

    Micheal's Bent Bus

    Repeat on the LH side with some shrinking required for good measure:
    3 points
  8. Thanks to @AndBir and his mate Darren in QLD for the pre purchase inspection this turned up at 7:00 this morning...... This will be a collab with my brother Tim, he can intro himself sometime soon. We've both built quite a few cars and decided that it was time we did something together with the aim being to do drag and drive type events. LS with a big single, TH400 and 9inch Paid $1900 for it, runs and drives beautfully for 319,000kms. Had it on the hoist alreday and cant believe how soild it is.......genuienly not a spec of rust...and I know about rust! No accident damage and paint is just oxidised but some patina that we will keep. This will be an on the cheap slow build, buying parts as they come up at the right price...hopefully
    2 points
  9. MX30 Cressida is the true Japanese volvo lol especially in a wagon. I would love one with a 2JZ
    2 points
  10. Try two…. lol I like the term time vampires! So true
    2 points
  11. Drive

    Time to jump on board

    Hi guys, Will be spending some time here as brother David (Kato kid) and I embark on a new project/build titled, LOLvo # the little red wagon that could. I know it’s not a Datto, but it will be a bit of fun all the same. Cheers Tim.
    2 points
  12. No, no it isn't haha. Especially after having a child. Time vampires.
    2 points
  13. Yeah I’m sure you’re right, it’s just demoralizing every time I look at the car lol I think the answer is getting 4 of them like you gav, I think that’s the go…. Better start pampering the wife…
    2 points
  14. You really need to see these cars in person to evaluate the body on them. Someone is always selling a sandblasted shell in epoxy after discovering the car was more far gone than anticipated. IMHO it's better the devil you know. Once you've started, if you keep looking for a better starting point. You end up finding a car without your current cars issues, just another set of issues your current car doesn't have. Given they are 50 years of age now, it's a given they need everything.
    2 points
  15. I drive a Japanese Volvo, of course I'm excited.
    2 points
  16. V8Datto

    Mystery part - help ID

    Rear swaybar mount
    2 points
  17. 2 points
  18. For anyone dealing with people over PM you don't really know yet (in the community). If they send photos of the item, you can ask them to send a photo of the item along with a photo of themselves holding the item. This is because many of these scammers are using Google Image search to find a part or product and send that to you claiming they have it. If you ask for a photo of the item in a specific way like with them in the photo or may some other proof that they are who they say they are. Then this should make it harder for scammers to take your money. PayPal offers buyer protection and will return your money if you lodge a dispute, so stick with PayPal if you can't collect the item yourself or have someone else collect it for you interstate and make payment in person. Also if you're ever in doubt as to the credentials of a member feel free to drop me a PM or similar. I can look into the members previous activity on the site and offer an opinion.
    1 point
  19. Hi all Thought I would start a thread topic on the JMC head project as from what I can tell no one has done so already. would be interested to know if anyone in Australia is planning a build with one of these. for those living under a rock JMC designed and manufactured a brand new L28 head with various improvements over the oem N42 head. - larger intake/exhaust ports with a uniform 2.5mm thickness between ports - reshaped combustion chamber designed for higher compression - redesigned water jackets to improve cooling Overall aiming for a better flowing and more durable head for tuning the L28 Website supplying the US: http://bluemoonperformance.com/project-l6/ has spec sheets and pricing chart video of the head in action Video where they CT scan a worked genuine L series head and found a port wall thickness of 1.2mm The price for a head is around the $7-8k AUD mark. So a significant investment. I haven’t seen any testing or performance/dyno figures with and without the head for example. discuss.
    1 point
  20. I think what they are doing is a great idea, given that OEM cylinder heads are getting harder to source and often in poor shape by this time. I also like the idea of a head you can bolt on that will straight away flow better than anything else. I am eager to see results also, given cost of porting a head and prepping it, the $7-8k is actually not a bad deal.
    1 point
  21. We have enough EOI's now, so I am closing the GB. Thanks for your interest.
    1 point
  22. I have a couple of surplus (unrestored).
    1 point
  23. All muscle car parts sell new bonnets which seem good value for money, believe they’re out of stock though. https://allmusclecarparts.com.au/datsun/240-260z.html
    1 point
  24. 1970 Datsun 240Z SPORTS Manual Coupe Price: [offers over] $50,000 Description: Datsun 240z 1970 model. This car has been in the same family for 37 years and this is a regrettable sale as I am moving overseas and the car must go. This 240 is in very good condition for its age, it was originally British racing green but was painted red pre 1985 , has had a touch up since. The motor is the original number matching engine that runs really good. Very early chassis number car. The interior could do with some work but is ok . For anymore info please text or call me on 0434244548 ( please no calls or texts after 8.30pm est. I'm after offers over $50,000. Vin: #HS30-00197 Location: Corrimal, New South Wales Link: https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/corrimal/cars-vans-utes/1970-datsun-240z-sports-manual-coupe/1297703619?utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=ios_VIP&utm_medium=social&utm_source=com.apple.uikit.activity.copytopasteboard
    1 point
  25. Requires sign up/log in to 9Now, but interesting bits re paint stripping and re chroming etc. Resto of a Skyline GTR : https://www.9now.com.au/jdm-legends/season-1/episode-6
    1 point
  26. Haha funny you say that mate, I spoke to him and he told me about his Datsuns and after about 10 mins I had to say I got to go. Lovely guy though! Long story short Nissan are no longer making fuel sender units for the 240z. If anyone hasn’t replaced theirs I would strongly recommend buying one as they are a part that constantly touches fuel and after a while is prone to weep. I couldn’t find any in Australia and had to go to NZ Datsun parts. when this rain stops and I’m not so busy we might have to go for a drive mate.
    1 point
  27. I suspect the price reflected the "rust modifications" that you can never see in online photos.
    1 point
  28. And a non sealed garage, so in winter it's too cold to be out there working on them.
    1 point
  29. KatoKid

    Time to jump on board

    Thats a matter of opinion!
    1 point
  30. Yeah this is what I have read in various sources, the guy I’m looking at using does purely car bodies and he does all the work for one of the classic car Resto outfits here in perth. I’m removing all the flat large surfaces prior to blasting so that should be ok.
    1 point
  31. C.A.R.

    Time to jump on board

    Ahhhh, the marginally better looking brother has arrived...
    1 point
  32. I watched a few of there videos with my guys just now at lunch. He had some very strange idea's on panel beating and panel shrinking... Media blasting is fine if the blaster knows what he is doing. Both of those guys have obviously had operators that didn't know what whey were doing. My recommendations: 1. Use an media blaster that does car body's a LOT & look at his work. If you don't like what you see, find someone else. 2. Don't blast sections of bodywork that are large and open, and away from body/swage lines. Mechanically strip or chemically strip that areas instead. Chemical dipping is far more risky and costly IMHO. There has been more than one car destroyed because the acid wasn't neutralized correctly... Wray does lovely work, but his idea's on pattern making are not my cup of tea - we just use brown paper.
    1 point
  33. Whoever buys it should remove those hideous wheels ASAP
    1 point
  34. Another couple of channels I have been watching are Silvester Customs https://www.youtube.com/c/SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS and Wray Schelin's pro shaper https://www.youtube.com/c/proshaper These guys do next level body work. Both are dead against sandblasting, which is interesting. Wray talks about the micro-pitting and warpage, as does Silvesters. I wonder if there are rogue sandblasters in the US that smash the cars with ball bearing sized pellets of sand or something, because the C.A.R results look pretty solid in the photos and he seems to sandblast.
    1 point
  35. SO this is why you have been sending me lots of Volvo wagon videos lately! @KatoKid Dave, you have excited @gav240z a bit too much, even it you are putting an LS in! haha
    1 point
  36. Yes watched this one, I like his videos.
    1 point
  37. Hey mate, check this vid out - he's attempting to get the undercoating off his US 280z using a variety of techniques. Its entertaining...
    1 point
  38. I have a blaster coming to look at the car this week that was recommended by a restoration shop. He’s going to assess the undercoating and if he can remove it with blasting, otherwise I will have to strip it. he has said he can blast the car while it’s on the chassis frame which is awesome. He can lift the whole thing with chain blocks to access underneath. Downside is he’s booked till march next year….. This whole time I have just been trying to work towards just getting this damn thing blasted and in epoxy! and with the severity of the rust and lack of structural integrity I wasn’t confident putting it on a rotisserie until some of the more structural rust was repaired. I have decided to pull all the panels off to expose all the interior sections that I know will be rusty as hell. I’ll remove the entire rear valance, rear quarter panels, roof skin. I have a few other panels I’m considering too like the front panel of the tool compartment and top wiper cowl panel. There’s a lot of rust in both those sections. I started experimenting with a few mechanical ways of removing undercoating used a oscillating multi tool with a scraper attachment as recommended by @CBR Jeff, on my undercoating it was not overly effective. First photo was just the tool and second was tool followed by a knotted wire wheel. most effective way proved to be a strip it disc, makes quick work of it. the oscillating multi too and scraper worked well on some of the sound proofing sections. but not so well on other parts yay more rust…. while I had the strip disc out I wanted to see what was under the paint on the rear quarters……there were lots of layers and much bog, I dared not do more…. started stripping the rear slam panel as I will need to unpick it, some quality repairs from previous owners. Just a couple of tacks and she’ll be right…. Also managed to knock off the rest of the second rotisserie frame. Now just need to finish the rear mounting assembly and the rotisserie will be done and ready to use when the time comes…
    1 point
  39. I love the look! The flying brick lol
    1 point
  40. RE: D Cap prices, a few completed listings. Single early cap (less fingers/tabs on back) for $536 USD https://www.ebay.com/itm/225039901444 Another single early cap for $500 USD. https://www.ebay.com/itm/295026991311 And this set of D caps (NOS) was listed at $6,000 USD + no idea if they sold. (eBay says so) https://www.ebay.com/itm/325140039226
    1 point
  41. C.A.R.

    Micheal's Bent Bus

    The RH rear lower quarter was a mess, and the inner panel was rusted though as well. No choice but to replace both, so Graeme (my employee) tackled this while I repaired the panels...
    1 point
  42. hmd

    Jeff's 240z build

    no secrets but it really depends on what your application. For my racing I use Project Mu race pads or Winmax W5. and used the shoes material the HQ racing guys use with the steel drums instead of aluminium. Sacrifice some weight in the drums because the aluminium expand too quickly with the heat.
    1 point
  43. A mini doco on the death of the sports car. Watch it on your tv if you can, it’s beautifully shot.
    1 point
  44. I must say the new Z has appeal in a market with limited options. But it will never be as legendary as the original. I recall people "trading up" from 240z's to buy 350z's in the early 2000s. How did that work out?
    1 point
  45. I would think of it like this: Will somebody who currently wants a 1970s sports car with timeless design, simple and effective mechanics, big noises (including some rattles), no creature comforts and something that turns heads and stirs up nostalgia - also be considering the new Nissan Z? My bet is no.
    1 point
  46. Not unexpected if it has. Two schools of economic thought: 1) Interest rates are set to rise sharply which means people sell off toys and holiday homes to reduce and consolidate increasingly hard to service debt. That coupled with the fact that money (for toys) will be more expensive to borrow means that there is not the same number of players looking to enter/stay in the classic car market thus pushing prices down. 2) Alternatively, as property gets more expensive to debt service their relative values either plateau or decline which means that people look to assets, other than property, to invest in such as shares or classic cars etc. This may in turn cause inflation of the classic car market. it does appear that we are on the verge of experiencing situation one though. But if you don’t have to sell in the oncoming period then don’t. Situation 2 will roll around soon enough and inflation will move your car values north by default.
    1 point
  47. Hi guys, I've split these posts into a new topic to keep the for sale thread, a for sale thread. Otherwise feel free to continue. FWIW, I found the RB26 feels very similar to the L-series motor in terms of being a straight 6 and the overall sound/feel. So I think it's a good swap option. I personally think an RB25NEO (w/26 covers let's be honest 25 covers look crap), and a high flow OP6 turbo and Nistune ECU would be really a really economical option that would easily make 350-400hp and in a Z would be plenty fast. If there is 1 thing I think is required in a an S30Z these days it's aircon and most 240z's didn't come equipped with that originally (some home market cars had it) but many are later dealer options, but I want to drive my classic and be comfortable too. With the way our summers are these days I think although aircon adds to the clutter of an engine bay it's worth having.
    1 point
  48. JDM-TOY

    240z Bonnet Needs Work

    @kamarchi very good quality definitely recommend it
    1 point
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