Riceburner Posted May 21, 2011 Author Posted May 21, 2011 Thanks gents, I got them on yahoo japan. I agree Gav, it would be too much white. The factory two tone should work pretty good and break up the longer front end a bit. I won't be fitting flares just yet, I don't think my wheels will be big enough to fill them out, 16x8 and 225 tyres are not quite big enough are they? Quote
roastbeef Posted May 21, 2011 Posted May 21, 2011 great! looks like you got the associated fasteners etc as well which is always handy. What are you going to do with the rear bumper? Quote
peter mc Posted May 21, 2011 Posted May 21, 2011 the cars looking good mate, hope you have a good day at the island tomorrow 54s all day Quote
Riceburner Posted May 29, 2011 Author Posted May 29, 2011 The Ricey is now down to 1.55's at Phillip Island I think there could be a bit more in it too.. I locked the left front into honda a couple of times in the first session, I then started breaking early so I didn't flatspot or trash the tyre. It was the first time I have used the Hilux/magna front brake combo and I'm happy to report there was no brake fade issues at all! No problems with those pesky welsh plugs, I had applied a ring of JB Weld around each one with a syringe to hopefully 'glue' them in... It worked. I also tried the D.L. Potter water resrtictor (it's welded in the end of the thermostat housing) with a Nissan thermostat and the Diesel water pump the temp was super stable, better than it's ever been, sitting halfway all day long. Quote
peter mc Posted May 29, 2011 Posted May 29, 2011 well done mate, good to see would love to see it on the dyno ,did it feel good out of corners ,as the cam is very big for a low comp motor Quote
Riceburner Posted May 30, 2011 Author Posted May 30, 2011 It's big compression compared to the old motor at 8.3:1 haha. I think we figured this one to be around 10:1? Haven't had it dynoed yet, I will have to at some stage but it pulls pretty hard all the way to 7,000 and I drilled out the slides to give quicker throttle response. I was at 6,800 by the end of the straight so gearing is spot on too. Quote
bluerat Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 I hope this isn't a very stupid question Gareth, but what slides did you drill out? Quote
Riceburner Posted May 30, 2011 Author Posted May 30, 2011 I drilled larger holes in each flat slide inside the carb, it also has the jet needle in it, which goes into the main jet. These are 6x 42mm Keihin carbs of a honda blackbird, they have a flat slide before the throttle butterfly and drilling the slide allows it to react to throttle opening quicker. They are kind of a modern version SU's only with much better engineering, like light weight plastic slides, knife edged throttle shafts and butterfly's from the factory Quote
Riceburner Posted June 7, 2011 Author Posted June 7, 2011 Update, the G-Nose covers arrived today I was suspect on the 'new old stock' cause you never know but they seem to be the real deal with the stainless steel surround as per originals and the adheasive on the seals is old and yellow. They came with all the mounting hardware too in very very old Nissan boxes. I have decide to get a 5piece G-Nose from Arita Speed in Japan, it turns out my current front spoiler is actually for a G-Nose so I will look at attaching that to the lower section once it's all fitted up. As the Ricey has no front bracing/barwork I got a front strut brace, slightly different style to most but should be very strong and give me a enough clearance over the bike carbs.... It's just a guess, not sure if it'll actually fit. What extra Strengthening mods can be done to the front of a 240? Preferrably stuff that can't be seen like bar work in the engine bay. I'm pushing fairly hard on track and with super stiff springs I think the chassis is the next weakest point! Fitting the 6point cage made a big difference to the 'feel' of the car and I'd like to get rid of as much front end flex as possible. Quote
Riceburner Posted June 7, 2011 Author Posted June 7, 2011 In terms of front stiffness how would this diagonal bar go? Any other ideas or specific areas the require extra attention? Paging LURCH... Is this something you could do when I get you to do the drivers side door and stuff? Quote
benny Posted June 7, 2011 Posted June 7, 2011 Hey G, Looking good... what brand is that strut bar?? Quote
NZeder Posted June 7, 2011 Posted June 7, 2011 Looks like a cusco strut bar to me. re the front bar in the inner wheel well - that is what I have done Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted June 7, 2011 Moderators Posted June 7, 2011 I've seen other bars added from the strut tops going down diagonally to roughly where the bottom of the radiator is to "box up" that huge space of an engine bay. Quote
chris240 Posted June 7, 2011 Posted June 7, 2011 ditto....what brand strut bar is it ?? very nice. Quote
Riceburner Posted June 7, 2011 Author Posted June 7, 2011 Yep it's cusco, but not one of the aluminiun ones that flex. Thanks Mike thats exactly the sort of stuff I'm looking for Dimitri when you say it goes onto the radiator support is that under the gaurd external to the engine bay? Quote
C.A.R. Posted June 7, 2011 Posted June 7, 2011 Paging LURCH... Is this something you could do when I get you to do the drivers side door and stuff? Not a problem. re the front bar in the inner wheel well - that is what I have done What he said ^. Quote
NZeder Posted June 7, 2011 Posted June 7, 2011 Normally the bar I have seen that Dimitri is talking about goes from the top of the strut down to the chassis rail above the anti-sway bar mount goes to add support and strength to this area. However this is usually matched with bars that run from the top of the strut towers back into the car that tie into a full cage. I personally when down the bar inside the wheel well for the following reason. 1. Hidden from the engine bay 2. I don't have full cage only a 1/2 cage 3. I know the front of zed can flex a bit - those tower are a long way from the firewall/sill aka a normally strong part of most uni-bodies. 4. I plan to run a strut bar that also ties back to the firewall also. I will see if I can find a pic of the bars I am talking about. Quote
NZeder Posted June 7, 2011 Posted June 7, 2011 This shows the bar from the top of the tower down to the anti-sway bar mounting point - there are others in there too Quote
PZG302 Posted June 7, 2011 Posted June 7, 2011 Stitch weld all the seams in the engine bay will also stiffen up the front end nicely. Quote
Riceburner Posted June 24, 2011 Author Posted June 24, 2011 Got the front strut brace on the car Fits over the bike carbs too! I've been inspired by stiva's pics so I had a bit of a play with the colors on the iphone app I have. Quote
Riceburner Posted June 25, 2011 Author Posted June 25, 2011 Nice. What app is that? [/quote It's called color splash Quote
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