Sirpent "Z"

[Sirpent]

Thanks for the words of encouragement Richard

 

It's hard, as we all know, when you are one person with 2 hands trying to line everything up and build to a car that has some factory tolerences that really show up as being out a fair way. It gets lonely at times and frustrating but at least the time taken allows you to walk away for a week at a time on occasions and look back at what you have done and either really get a buzz out of it or ask yourself, "WHY ?" and start all over again.

 

Today I came to the conclusion that the drivers side Mustache bar mount bolt is 4mm out of alignment forward compared to its passanger side twin, doesnt sound like much but when you are working with metal this rigid and trying to align it all without the benefit of factory brackets and mustache bar that have a fair bit of give you really have a task on your hands.

 

The RHS is all 2mm apart from the new rear cradle section and front cross member that uses 5mm wall thickness.

 

Yeah I know weight weight weight, but Im not building a drag car or track car and i dont want to adulterate the original body because in the end this car can be reversed back to standard in the future although I dont see it in my lifetime. My goal is high performance rather than insane performance and driveability first and foremost.

 

The new motor and trans are about 30 kg's less than the original L6 and trans, the new diff is probably 5 kg's heavier and this chassis will come in around 40 kg's so I'm up around 15-20 kg's so far after going from an L6 with 160HP to 350HP (190 HP Increase) and 157 ft·lbf to 340 lb·ft (183 lb·ft Increase)

 

Do I really care about weight? NO, I want to make sure that it all gets down to the ground the best way I can get it to and when I turn the wheel the suspension reacts and not torsional stress and a creaking body shell.

 

As for all the additional mounts etc, once I have the motor trans and diff sitting in the car, I will start running preliminary brake lines, fuel lines, exhaust and so on just as David did with his M3 conversion and add whatever is needed as I go along.

 

Long way off though, still need to add a lot of gussets, fish plates, "18 Crush tubes !" etc first.

 

Really appreciate the word of encouragement Mate, If you get down to Melbourne, give me a heads up.

 

Cheers

 

John 

[KatoKid]

It hurts when you have to redo something that you've put hours into alreday but the worst thing you can do is finish it and not be happy with the outcome. So kudos to you John for being determined to do it right!

[Sirpent]

It hurts when you have to redo something that you've put hours into alreday but the worst thing you can do is finish it and not be happy with the outcome. So kudos to you John for being determined to do it right!

Thanks Dave

 

The other night I read your thread from start to end and am waiting to see the update from the beaters work.

 

Your build doesn't just inspire the countless on this forum, but me personally also, helps pull my finger out and move on.

 

Cheers

 

John

[Sirpent]

A small amount of progress, but proof of concept and I believe a much better end result with the chassis now sectioned into 2 segments allowing the rear cradle to bolt to the main chassis. This will really help in the fit up as I will be able to mount the diff as a seperate unit but If i want to drop the entire drivetrain out as a complete unit I can still do that also..

 

One mount plate and 4 crush tubes knocked over, now the opposite side to do.

 

Cheers

 

John

 

 

[CBR Jeff]

That will be strong. As you say the changes will provide a better outcome.

Jeff

[Sirpent]

That will be strong. As you say the changes will provide a better outcome.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff

 

And it all seems to be coming together now with each section I work on.

 

Finished off all 8 crush tubes today, milled out 42mm holes in the new hanger plates so that the LCA tubes are aligned to the original LCA mount points and then set the lot in place and tacked it all up before taking diagonal measurements to check if the alignments were all in order.

 

Just need to wait for the laser cut LCA and diff forward mount brackets that will slide over the tubes and then I can weld up the entire rear cradle.

 

I placed the diff cap in position just to give an idea of where it will sit in the cradle.

 

I know it looks agricultural, but its all unseen and has a purpose to fulfill, I will make sure the outside interior and engine bay are eye candy 

 

Cheers

 

John

Edited April 2, 2016 by Sirpent

[Sirpent]

Only 1 photo today, managed to start on the "X" frame withing the chassis after a lot of measuring before hand.

 

Seems I have plenty of room all around for the engine and transmission, however the top of the tunnel where the gear shift pokes though will need some minor alterations to get a bit more clearance and the ashtray pod will have to be deleted, guess its time to give up on the smokes

 

Now I just have to wait for the laser cut gussets, fish plates and Rear LCA hanger brackets which should be ready for collection on Friday.

[Sirpent]

In case anyone is still following this thread.

 

I've been cutting everything so far with a 1mm fibre dic on a hand held angle grinder, that is up until today when I picked up my custom laser cut gussets fish plates and LCA hangers. 

 

I redesigned the gearbox cross member set up AGAIN, and this should really stiffen up the ladder assy, I will now incorporate "X" braces forward and rearward of this assy.

 

The plates were a perfect fit, so I drilled out the fish plates and plug welded them in place, there are still 2 more that need to be plug welded in on the opposite side of each chassis rail but will need to take it off the car first. 

 

The corner gussets really start to clean up the look of the assy as did the fish plates, and I am over the moon about the rear LCA hanger plates which I have just sat in place for the photo.

 

Once all these plates and gussets are welded in, I can have all the edges tigged or migged by someone with far more skill than me.

 

Cheers

 

John

Edited April 8, 2016 by Sirpent

[PeterAllen]

Following with great interest.

[CBR Jeff]

Now John they Look great.

I'm still following your thread mate. Keep it coming.

Jeff

[PB260Z]

Hi John

 

Definately still following your thread, and with great amazement.

Just not commenting too much as I have run out of superlatives.

 

Cheers

 

PB

[Sirpent]

Thanks Peter, Jeff and Peter 

[jeff43]

Still watching with great interest. Looking good. Keep at it.

 

Cheers Jeff

[Sirpent]

Thanks Peter, Jeff, Peter and Jeff   LMAO

[ric240z]

Still Following This good work John!

 

Ric

[Cozza]

Yep, enjoy reading and looking at your posts.

I think your build is so different to the majority on this forum that it is hard for most to comment.

Don't lose faith John, we are all watching from the sidelines.

 

Mick

[Sirpent]

Yep, enjoy reading and looking at your posts.

I think your build is so different to the majority on this forum that it is hard for most to comment.

Don't lose faith John, we are all watching from the sidelines.

 

Mick

Thanks Mick

 

Not losing faith, but no one should feel it hard to comment, I make mistakes just like anyone else does and welcome any feedback especially when it points out an error or questions my thinking because that can only lead to a better result.

 

Appreciate your words Buddy 

 

Cheers

 

John

[260DET]

Bloomin heck, that X brace, setting the suspension up for this will be interesting

[Sirpent]

No issues as the cross brace as its seen in the photo I posted isnt going in now, design changes on the run.

 

The rear lower control arms are being custom fabricated by John Lange to suit unlike the configuration of the OEM LCA's

 

Will have more than enough room to run the exhaust system above the new chassis height and as the fuel tank is being replaced by the LPG donut tank converted for ULP which will sit in the spare wheel well, I have an acre of room now for pipes and mufflers either side of the spare wheel well. 

 

Rear suspension wont be an issue, all measures up nicely, ride height of the car will be affected somewhat by the lower chassis height, but Im going 18 inch wheels with coilovers.

 

These are the wheels and offsets i have decided on however the tyre profiles will be lower than 45's.

[PB260Z]

Awesome looking wheel, love gold with chrome dish styling.

[Sirpent]

Awesome looking wheel, love gold with chrome dish styling.

I like it also. After trolling the entire net looking for a flat outer lip and classic looking style, I found these although the center color will be dependent on the final body color.

 

Red - Gold center

Black - Dark argent metalic color

White - White center

 

..............and so fourth.

[260DET]

Was thinking more of spring rates and damper valving for this super stiff chassis, I'm sure you have the alignments etc under control.

[Sirpent]

My Bad Richard

 

Understand now, haven't even got that far as yet and will have to rely on some good advice in that area once I get around to arranging new coilovers.

 

The set Lurch did for me will be up for grabs shortly not that there is anything wrong with them, Im just thinking going for a complete all inclusive new set up complete with brake upgrades etc.

 

But I would welcome any advice you or anyone else could provide in that area.

 

Cheers

 

John 

[MaygZ]

Hey Sirpent,

 

just asking: would it have been easier to build a stand alone chassis and then bolt the shell and hanging panels to it?

[Sirpent]

Hey Sirpent,

 

just asking: would it have been easier to build a stand alone chassis and then bolt the shell and hanging panels to it?

 

Simon

 

Ummmmmmmmmmmmmmm, that's what I've done.

 

It's being built on the car but is totally removable via 20 bolts.

 

Entire drivetrain will be capable of being dropped out in 20 minutes.

 

Keep watching, soon I will build the trolley for the set up so I can start mounting the engine trans and diff outside of the car.