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Posted

I always thought those had the Nissan 2400 OHC covers on the L24 motor? I see this car doesn't have it. Do you know if these had them at all? Or was it only a 240z thing?

Posted

I always thought those had the Nissan 2400 OHC covers on the L24 motor? I see this car doesn't have it. Do you know if these had them at all? Or was it only a 240z thing?

Ive not seen any G130 models (came with L23 and then in 70-71 a L24) with the Nissan 2400 covers but i have seen the H130 (L20 engine) with a Nissan 2000 cover

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Posted

Ahh I always thought these had L24s in early 1970. I didn't realise the L23 got phased out in 71. That would be why no 2400 OHC covers and explains why those covers are so rare over here!

Posted

Ahh I always thought these had L24s in early 1970. I didn't realise the L23 got phased out in 71. That would be why no 2400 OHC covers and explains why those covers are so rare over here!

Is there a connection with the E31 head and 2400 covers? No Cedrics ever came with E31 heads, either E88 or N42s

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Posted

Is there a connection with the E31 head and 2400 covers? No Cedrics ever came with E31 heads, either E88 or N42s

 

Well I've never seen this cover on a non-E31 head... but E88 and N42's came later anyway. I'm not sure if there were other markets with heads other than E31's where early L24's were used but had this cover. It's quite possible, but seeing any other L24 powered cars from that era today is quite rare.

Posted

1976 Datsun 260Z (2 seater)

$20,000 Buy it now

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/282848938065?ul_noapp=true

Parklands, WA

 

"I have a 1976 Datsun 260Z coupe which I am putting up for sale.

 
The car was partly dismantled ready to be sent off for rust repair but will be put back together to make it easier for transportation for the sale.
I have been quoted 4K for the rust repair not including blasting. It was commented on the fact the rust is not to bad for an Old school Jap Car just a few key spots and a bit of surface rust.
 
The Key spots are 
On the main body Inner Doors both sides (see photo), Fuel filler area, Passengers side rear light corner (dented),
Behind part of lower Radiator support.
The guards have rust holes as seen in the pictures and the bonnet has a small rust hole where the badge goes.
and the scuttle panel has a small hole.
The rest is just surface rust 
 
Original engine 2600L with Manual 
 
I am currently working away so am limited to the photos and info i can post at the moment will update when I get more."
 
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Posted

 

https://www.shannons.com.au/auctions/2018-shannons-melbourne-late-summer-classic-auction/UC8AKA6P68945VC0/

 

2018 SHANNONS MELBOURNE LATE SUMMER CLASSIC AUCTION

 

 

LOT

37

1969 Datsun Fairlady '240Z' Coupe Guiding Range: $30,000 - $45,000

 

It irritates me that it's quoted as a 69 model. When it is infact a 71 model and it's a Fairlady Z (not a 240z, it came with an L20A engine not an L24). Shannon's should know better too.

Posted

 

I have been quoted 4K for the rust repair not including blasting. It was commented on the fact the rust is not to bad for an Old school Jap Car just a few key spots and a bit of surface rust.

 
s-l1600.jpg
 

 

 

And thus the biggest lie I have ever seen in a car ad was told...............

Seriously minstrels could write songs about the heroics of this warrior against the forces of truth and reality

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Posted

So what you expect to pay for rust at this level? Scope would be rust cut out, primer and paint?

 

I hate to estimate based on photos, but $2k alone will be cost of sandblasting and etch primer after. Then let's presume you don't have anymore rust than what's visible, I'd say another $6-$8k could go into that. But the rust spots on this 1 are not the most common areas and I suspect it might have a lot more hiding once blasted. I would be planning to spend $10k at least on the body.

 

Worth doing, but $4k is optimistic.

Posted

It irritates me that it's quoted as a 69 model. When it is infact a 71 model and it's a Fairlady Z (not a 240z, it came with an L20A engine not an L24). Shannon's should know better too.

It’s pretty obvious from watching Shannons tv, their valuers have no idea about value and don’t have much of an idea about the intricacies of each model either.

Posted

I know all 240z come in all sorts of conditions (ie rust, dents etc)....for those of you that have had a full respray, rust cut out, and if anyone has taken it back to bare metal. What’s everyone spent on paint jobs....and not what you told the mrs it cost...

Posted (edited)

I agree with Gav's comments above. The car is badly rusted, although well worth saving. There will be far more rust than the photos show, those sills look thin and probably cob-webby, and you can guarantee in the chassis rails too, there are no photos of the underside. Lots of patches required, almost all of them having to be hand formed, it's not like one can order up a whole host of patch panels like one can with Mustangs for example.

 

$4K to repair? Maybe 20 yrs ago... unless a quick bog job - no rust repair - and cheapo paint job. You don't get much of a paint job for $4K these days.

Much as always depends on how much one can do oneself vs what has to be farmed out. If the latter I think one could easily sink $20K into it by the time it's stripped/blasted, fully repaired then finish painted to a good show standard. And then you've got to allow to do the mechanicals, and the interior. And the purchase price. Easy to over-capitalize on these things, not so much of an issue if one keeps it long-term though. But oh yes, just don't try explaining that to SWMBO; she'll be thinking that that $50K plus would be better used as a starter deposit on a house.....

Edited by gilltech
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Posted

I know all 240z come in all sorts of conditions (ie rust, dents etc)....for those of you that have had a full respray, rust cut out, and if anyone has taken it back to bare metal. What’s everyone spent on paint jobs....and not what you told the mrs it cost...

 

How long is a piece of string? Most who have done it correctly and spent the money getting a professional to do it are probably not willing to tell you.. It would be easy to sink $40k into the body work of a rusty S30Z. It all depends on how bad the body is to begin with. A car with only minor rust wouldn't cost much to repair. A rust bucket could easily cost many multiples of a good car.

 

I am buying up as many NOS panels as possible for HS30 00051 simply because the initial outlay will be higher - up front purchase cost of panels, but it is likely to work out cheaper long term and end in a better finish overall (less filler / distortion) and better panel gaps etc.. It all depends how fussy you are and what standard you want the car to be when done.

Posted

Im sure for 4k you could hit that rust with a wire wheel slap some bog into it and a quick spray easy.

All depends on level of finish and quality of work your after. Even then theres no guarantees

Posted

To restore that car you will be the one not telling us what you spent. However it is all relative to what you actually want the car to be and money will be spent on different areas accordingly. A track car will have less spent on body and paint but heaps more on engine driveline and suspension vs show quality resto that sucks up money through labour and the search for all the little bits and bobs that will have you shelling out money at an alarming rate. A pair of GOOD restored bumpers/ overriders with new rubbers will come in at around 3g alone. The best and easiest question is how much it will be to travel to the shannons auction and buy the red 240 and be done with it and enjoy it immediately.

Posted

Repop bumpers with shit chrome that wont last. No overriders/ rubbers. By the time you buy all the parts and have the bumpers professionally rechromed it adds up mate. Scroll through the parts on ebay and start punching numbers into a calculator and see. You can't put weathered and faded old badges and taillights on a 50g restored car it stands out like dogs nuts. Its all the little things that add up.

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Posted

3 grand??? How bad are those $400 ones on eBay then???

 

Repop bumpers with shit chrome that wont last. No overriders/ rubbers. By the time you buy all the parts and have the bumpers professionally rechromed it adds up mate. Scroll through the parts on ebay and start punching numbers into a calculator and see. You can't put weathered and faded old badges and taillights on a 50g restored car it stands out like dogs nuts. Its all the little things that add up.

 

I decided to re-chrome my OEM bumper from my 72 240z, cost of re-chrome alone was $550 (good price I thought w/overriders being done too), then the rubbers add up. I think you can do it for $1000 each end or so (if you have good bumpers to start with). So yes, $2000-$3000 depends on what you start with etc.. sounds about right.

 

Hence why I decided NOT to use this bumper on my 72 (as the rest of the car has it's fair share of patina), and instead this bumper will go on HS30 00150.

Posted

I hate to estimate based on photos, but $2k alone will be cost of sandblasting and etch primer after. Then let's presume you don't have anymore rust than what's visible, I'd say another $6-$8k could go into that. But the rust spots on this 1 are not the most common areas and I suspect it might have a lot more hiding once blasted. I would be planning to spend $10k at least on the body.

 

Worth doing, but $4k is optimistic.

Gav are you including paint in this estimate ? My car had rust that amounted to a 50 cent piece and I spent over $20K on body and paint nearly 10 years ago.

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