Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About csp-311

  • Rank

member details

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

313 profile views
  1. Will also Pm you, maybe Alan and I can combine shipping....?
  2. Hello, I have put a group buy on classiczcars.com, and put the offer to members here; https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63966-jdmoption-footest-part/ $60 USD equates roughly to $90 Aus plus shipping. PM me or add your interest/questions here. Cheers Ian
  3. They look the correct, OEM thickness to me. Here is pic of a Z432 with headlight covers on; https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/t690389765
  4. I too have had to delve into the Geortz side of things whilst researching for my CSP311 website. You can read some here and more with the A550X development history tab on my site; https://csp311.net/csp311-design-myth-csp311デザイン神話/ Pity this myth hasn't died out yet (I like a few others are trying to dispell this)
  5. I used alcohol (ethanol) when I cleaned mine up years ago, either with a tooth brush, or with clean wipes with alcohol. If I had known then, I might have investigated taking the plastic plugs off to clean easier, using the extraction tool from here; http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Tools Some of the plastic could have gone hard/discoloued from years of heat/weather/uv, so I don't know how to "clean" them, except with replacements. With the single wire connectors, if the plastic sleeve comes off, I just cleaned with a pipe cleaner (as in pipe smoking) soaked in alcohol, and brasso for the brass wire connector. As for electrical grease, you could, but you more than likely won't be using your S30 the same way it was when it was new, and the S30 is mostly very good with wiring issues through bad contacts. I remember somewhere talk of "cleaning" the windscreen washer bottle from its yellowing over the years, from its cream colour originally, so this may work on any plastic wiring block. There is my thoughts. Hope it helps.
  6. I brought a load of terminals and connectors from Vintage connections about a year ago for my restoration. Good quality. Haven't used yet.
  7. Couldn't the original Nissan steel flaps be punched out then? (Nice work anyway Groundhog)
  8. And here is another; https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g326235667 with the single wheel to make the set; https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f327040440
  9. Good work Post Ironic, The Rabbit shocks are shorter, but the original Bilsteins, P30-0061 (front) and P30-0062 (rear) are the correct length for direct fitment to a s30/240/260z. I presume the Koni Yellows, like the Koni reds, have either a knob on the top to adjust, or a adjustment on the bottom of the shock (which you can't adjust once in the strut). Being soft, medium and hard? How do the Koni Yellows match to a varying choice of spring rate, or are they just quite generic offering a narrow band of damping/spring rate?
  10. Post-ironic, The original Bilsteins, P30-0061 (front) and P30-0062 (rear) is the route I went down. I managed to source a used pair of both (my friend source a NOS pair). I was lucky to have them re-valved in the US, where I got them with the help of a friendly Hybridz member. I can't remember which way, but one pair was re-valved, while the other set was too far gone. they could be re-built at a un-economical cost, but they found another shock that would fit and close valving. And it wasn't the VW ones. I will have to dig them out for what they are. The good thing is the Bilsteins can be re-built. I had them re-valved by giving them the spring rate I am using, and the car weight. The key to good suspension is getting these to work in unison. Most just throw some springs/shocks expecting brilliance. It wasn't a cheap route, but for me, better than the cutting shock towers and adding some modern stuff in. Keep it looking original. FYI, The old Bilsteins are clour coded for front (green) and rear (yellow- I can't quite recall, or the other way round) , but I this doesn't always be true, as I have a set with the colour on the "wrong" shock. The stamped numbers are the key. The "wrong" coloured shock could be for sale....but would need re-valved/serviced.
  11. I have even driven someone elses 3.1 with 40s webers on it.....they thought it was great, I thought it was an asthmatic ant....
  12. FYI, the inspection lamp can be found on earlier Nissan models, and comes with a metal (chromed) arm and a glass domed light bulb cover. The S30's got the more mass produced (easier to make /cheaper) versions of this lamp (though it wouldn't surprise me if the very early S30's got the same glass domed version).
  13. I caught the last few minutes of this auction; https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/u200514512
  14. Yes, the chassis is the same, though I think there is some minor differences to accommodate the different body of the CSP311 (different out hangers). Though the 311 chassis can follow its lineage back to about 1955/6 with the Datsun 310 (Bluebird) if my memory is correct. So, you had Datsun 310, 312, Bluebird 410, 411, Fairlady SP310, SP311, CSP311 (Silvia), and finally the Fairlady SR311. Though the chassis on the Datsun 310 and the final models look quite different. There is small part of me that thinks (more research needs done) that the Silvia prototype MAY have started out as a unibody design, why, a Japanese mag show sepia pictures (within a dedicated Silvia article) of the floor/wheel arch of a prototype, which looks totally different to the SP310 the Silvia is based on. My transcribing and translating doesn't say it isn't. But....I am not definate by a long shot.
  15. Correction, after thinking, this CSP above is from Japan...it doesn't help (my brain) when the owner had imported one from Aus. too.
  • Create New...