csp-311

FYI, spotted on Yahoo auctions.... https://www.jauce.com/auction/s1141155947

HS30-H strongly adivised me to get the MK63 retaining rings, which used to be in the Nissan repair kit, but only has seals now. The retaining rings hold the seals in, and are very often rusty or bend when dis-assembling. They are NLA, but Vintagecraft makes reproductions, and sometimes lists on Yahoo auctions Japan; https://www.vintagecraft-e-za.com/販売のページ/室内パーツ関係-シャシーパーツ/ｍｋ６３ダストブーツリテーナー/

Someone over here in the UK does repros; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295201816116?hash=item44bb663e34%3Ag%3AAgAAAOSwG3dh7GSV&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoGsJ0HdO7fc4zDm7b1d6ofH1aWAGiZ2DE%2FvOaGtmIuzYNKqyudwzouJeTvagcRvPqvvcaZeADdxuGYscEpTMfPItq79ioWTl1GE4NLktQ4qAZkoQBG3ZB8p8Ju8PkNZQ%2BiVBXFDM2nVNgFHSLIFNZKpQv%2ByHygmp9r3Ed96hNhjqw0tGSD%2Bl8J32GYtSrvtyGkiDxpGw3ELUI93UEhPod1Y%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7jkg4PKYQ&LH_ItemCondition=3 Happy to help with indirect shipment, rather than highway robbery shipment fees Ebay charges if you want one.

Nice! These 44's are the type 4's, with the external float adjustment. Nice to see a new set for reference, as I refurbish the PHH's.

Datsunnyit, Reproduction below the bumper, fitting in the corner front valance are available, indicator only, no side light, either in orange or clear lens.

Funny I was reading about this on the roadster forum just before coming on here, the thread may help, starts with stumbling about 1/2 way down 1st page; https://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=8636

Usually the suffix part of the part number tells you what model the parts were originally on, the Y68 and the P65...I can't recall off the top of my head, but I have a list somewhere.... Early 280ZX''s were early P's e.g. P01, so I would suggest a model after that....

I would love to see how the chainsaws (hanging up above left) are used in the Z body restoration, used for cutting the rust out??!!

That is dependent on how you treat the bare metal, here you can have steel zinc blasted, so a coating of zinc is blasted onto the bare steel and won't come off . My Z suspension springs are bare (no paint/powder coat), and after 12 years still no rust. Not saying "its the way to do it" but there other ways to do things. Nice work by the way ND240Z, makes me feel like the body of the csp I am restoring isn't that bad (but it is).

I know there has been some discussion on here about the Rally and Calender clock, so on the off chance someone has one to part with? With or without oscilator, as I know there are modern components to go into a reproduction case. Restored, not restored. Yes, I know they sometimes come up on Yahoo Japan. Not for me, on someone's behalf, no calender clock, as they don't want that (as I offered mine). Drop me a line... Thanks Ian

A bit behind the conversation, but instead of making a solid metal fuel line, what about this?; A fuel rail designed for triples, a repro of the Sports Option one for the S30. I have one on my triple set-up. Love the work and the project, keep it up

Me too, as it may shed some light on how a couple of CSP311's ended up there from new in 1965/6. PNG doesn't spring to mind as a hotbed of exotic imports.

And this PS30 also listed for about the same yen as the two above is this; https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w447385596

I am not a great fan of these types of aftermarket air boxes, quickly conceived with the idea of selling the idea of “cold air intake” and “forced induction”. Both have their place, but I am more of the thought of how the air enters the air box, how its distributed and how the airflow is within the ‘box and presented to the carbs/trumpets is much more important. Yes, you may well gain some hp by having cold air coming into the air box, but if that is lost (hp) due to poor design within the air box, what is the point? You have a highly designed air trumpet to pull as much air in as possible but yet how the air gets to them I don’t see being thought about in these aftermarket ‘boxes. If you look at some of Nissan’s stock air boxes for their models from the early 1960’s into the 1970’s, there is some thought and design that has gone into them, and for a reason. Yes, our L series are running bigger carbs and are more performance orientated, but it doesn’t mean design has to wash over what has come before. Nissan would have put a lot of time and Yen designing their air boxes and for they did it for a reason, so why can’t we? I know I have.

If my memory serves me right (from what someone on Classizcars.com said) , about 1 million Yen for a set of Kobe Seiko genuine Z432 wheels is about the current rate in Japan. That is about $13,000.

Datsunrally, Longer wheel studs are easily found, like Kameari or Nismo, in differing lengths; https://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-long-hub-bolt-8-bolt-set.html

Will also Pm you, maybe Alan and I can combine shipping....?

Hello, I have put a group buy on classiczcars.com, and put the offer to members here; https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63966-jdmoption-footest-part/ $60 USD equates roughly to $90 Aus plus shipping. PM me or add your interest/questions here. Cheers Ian

They look the correct, OEM thickness to me. Here is pic of a Z432 with headlight covers on; https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/t690389765

I too have had to delve into the Geortz side of things whilst researching for my CSP311 website. You can read some here and more with the A550X development history tab on my site; https://csp311.net/csp311-design-myth-csp311デザイン神話/ Pity this myth hasn't died out yet (I like a few others are trying to dispell this)

I used alcohol (ethanol) when I cleaned mine up years ago, either with a tooth brush, or with clean wipes with alcohol. If I had known then, I might have investigated taking the plastic plugs off to clean easier, using the extraction tool from here; http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Tools Some of the plastic could have gone hard/discoloued from years of heat/weather/uv, so I don't know how to "clean" them, except with replacements. With the single wire connectors, if the plastic sleeve comes off, I just cleaned with a pipe cleaner (as in pipe smoking) soaked in alcohol, and brasso for the brass wire connector. As for electrical grease, you could, but you more than likely won't be using your S30 the same way it was when it was new, and the S30 is mostly very good with wiring issues through bad contacts. I remember somewhere talk of "cleaning" the windscreen washer bottle from its yellowing over the years, from its cream colour originally, so this may work on any plastic wiring block. There is my thoughts. Hope it helps.

I brought a load of terminals and connectors from Vintage connections about a year ago for my restoration. Good quality. Haven't used yet.

Couldn't the original Nissan steel flaps be punched out then? (Nice work anyway Groundhog)

And here is another; https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g326235667 with the single wheel to make the set; https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f327040440

Good work Post Ironic, The Rabbit shocks are shorter, but the original Bilsteins, P30-0061 (front) and P30-0062 (rear) are the correct length for direct fitment to a s30/240/260z. I presume the Koni Yellows, like the Koni reds, have either a knob on the top to adjust, or a adjustment on the bottom of the shock (which you can't adjust once in the strut). Being soft, medium and hard? How do the Koni Yellows match to a varying choice of spring rate, or are they just quite generic offering a narrow band of damping/spring rate?