600Z

Good question I have been wondering that too.... I have also been wondering what other flanges fit the 260Z stub axles if any ?

Hello RaZed, Might sound funny but if your able to get a short bit of pipe or even a old socket that will fit over the round boss above the hex where you put the spanner on so it sits on the shoulder where the hex starts. Then give it a couple of good hard hits with a hammer you will more then likely find it will loosen it up where you should be able to remove it with a open ended or ring spanner if your able to get it on. Justin.

They were from L24 engines the E88 closed chamber ones, there were two for sale. I would have grabbed one but I already have one so I thought I'd post it here as I think they would be a good performance head with a bit of work.

That was quick, well im hoping a couple of guys here got them.

Hi guys if anyone is interested there are two L24 closed chamber heads for sale on eBay in S.A. For $375 each. Justin

May not be too much drama then Richard, I know I have a 240Z one that I'm playing with and it's certainly very different and to get enough colasp length so with 240Z's I'll probably modify the front shaft in the engine bay for this.

No problem Richard, the ones I do are for 260's. One offs for different cars are a bit harder and time consuming. Nato, that's where mine sits, it's really the only place it can go unless you run it horizontally like zedpower do theirs but then it's very easy to see, you have to bend right down to see mine and if you were to paint it black be even harder. The other thing is you have to be able to give the unit a signal for them to work, speed or Ecu, sometimes both so it knows the car is either moving or running. If I could upload a short video I would post it but I tried and doesn't seam to work. Justin

Hi Richard, There are actually a few options out there but just do your research especially if you want it to be legal and have it passed by your engineer. Any welds need to be NDT tested to have it passed as well. Buying a generic unit could be dangerous as there is very limited room under the dash of these things and placement and size of the unit is VERY important. If you go down that path make sure you brace the unit as there can be quite a lot of torsional force that you don't really want only going through your column. Also be prepared to spend a lot of time sussing it out but it can certainly be done as I have and helps if you have a lathe to turn items up where needed. I have attached a couple of pictures of the unit I do, I do have two nearly finished though ones for my wife's 260 and another is for another member though not sure what's happening there as I haven't heard from him and been waiting to hear from his engineer. Let me know if there is anything I can help you with, they certainly change the way you can drive the car, no longer is it a 70's vehicle the difference is amazing. Justin.

Hello Alan, How much for a rear defogger switch and light for it? Justin

Hi Joel, Your saying you have found a car, so the question is really how much to do a conversion with a RB or LS is going to be am I right? So my advice would be to take the price of the car you have found off your 35k budget, list what needs to be done or you would like done and give your budget of the remaining funds. Example car 15k then you have 20k to play with for the mods etc. There are engine conversion kits for RBs and LS engines online, check prices of a good secondhand RB or LS engine with wiring and computer. Drop into a couple of mechanics, exhaust and auto electrictions and see if the can give you a bit of an idea what they would charge etc. Always add extra as it will always cost more. As you have a budget like all of us do what needs to be done to get it on the road and catch up with interior etc down the track. Hope that helps as there is no real answer apart from there will be plenty of other hidden costs as all the little items very quickly add up and having others do the work their time will be a very large part of that. Hope it works out for you.

Hi Rickers, Carpoint as well I find they come up there too, try adds although there seams to be a few looking but always worth a try. Put a short spiel as to why your after one could help as no one wants to sell a car like these to someone who is going to destroy it drifting etc. anyone in their right mind would love to sell to someone who is going to rebuild if to its former glory. And your right zeds are something special. Justin

Hi Rickers, Fantastic introduction there and I have to admit and I'm not too pruod to do so but while reading your introduction out to my wife I started finding it hard and had to have a couple of small pauses there. I'm not sure if I'm the only one who found it quite moving, but I did and I think doing that for and with your dad will be something very special and you would both get so much out of it. I will be very interested to hear how it pans out for you both after you find the car, it's a wonderful idea and I wish you the very best in your build and have to admit you have picked a fantastic car to do it with Justin

Hi Hadley, Good to see another zed driver, there a great car and I can imagine with a RB conversion they would be nice though I have not driven one, mine is a LS conversion. Plenty of people on here have done what your wanting to do and I would have thought someone would have given you a bit of info. I'm not familiar with the RB's gearbox but I would tent to think that you will need the output section of the tail shaft to suit the gearbox and have a driveline place like Hardie spicer etc make one out of the two. As for the diff, if it's a R200 which I would certainly think it would be its strong enough as I have one with 265kw at the wheels and over 500Nm of torque, just don't be stupid with them dropping the clutch etc. There are R200 shortnose diff conversions and plenty of different axle conversions as well you can search around for. You can also get an engine and gearbox mount kit for the RB into the S30. Everyone is pretty helpful on here, find someone who has done it and just flick them a few questions to point you in the right direction Justin

Hi Mike, All good I was thinking bugger should I be looking for another one with bigger ports lol Yes from what I read the P90 heads flow pretty well from factory.

Hi Gav, Yes there the three I'm aware of as well though I thought the port sizes are the same across them but could be wrong. Justin

Hi Mike, Just a quick one as I have both the early E88 from a L26 open chamber and a E88 EFI closed chamber and the ports from what I can tell are the same apart from the injector cut outs? Both have 36mm intake ports, I do know that there are a few different E88 heads though. Justin

Hi 240z71, Mine is standard at the moment but the intake ports I guess are the ones your interested in and they are 35-36mm diameter. From what I have been reading and obviously depends where and what you read but there are calculations to work out port size for a certain displacement but also for valve size as from what they say no point having huge ports with lower air velocity when the valve size is the restriction. The book I have been reading says for the intake ports must not be more than 0.82 of the valve size, so with 44mm valves the ports should be 36mm and looks like Nissan knows that too as that's what they are. I know there will be people who don't agree and I guess I'm one of them to a degree but with this head I'm going to try it and follow what they are saying. No doubt if it's a race engine running between 5-8k rpm 90% of the time it might be different and your after all out power but not so good for the street where and we have to admit even if we don't want too is where 90% of our driving is .... Bigger lol I'm certainly no expert though have built a few Datsun four cylinders and ports a few heads, my own being a 219 SSS head which I did a lot of work too for a 2.1L bottom end and running twin 48 dellorto's with 41mm chokes along with quite a few other various things to suit. When put on the dyno the guy was first off a bit cocky after asking who built it and I said I did but soon changed and said that all the rally guys would love to be producing what it was and the only other 4 cylinder naturally aspirated he had that had more was a fiat race car and it wasn't much. Anyway point of that was it didn't really produce anything much exciting until about 4000rpm and then it came alive, was a fun car but not a great street engine and like most at the time I thought bigger was better when it's not always the case. I'd be keen to hear others thoughts and ideas or experiences on head work before I start on this one as there isn't too many around and I want to do it right the first time. I know the bowl area and the diameter, radius / turn in and out is the most important for flow to aid the air to flow properly as straight walls in this area kills flow. The carbruators I have for the engine are a set of early 45mm dellorto's with 34mm chokes, probably prefer 36 or 38 chokes but is going to be a street car and my wife's though I'm sure I'll take it for the odd blatt lol There are some very knowledgeable guys here and be great to get some feedback on what's best on these heads. Justin.

Hi Dionysus, No problem in time I'll find out

Hi Dionysus, I also have the E88 closed chamber head I'm going to be using on a L28 that I'm building up, I'm thinking that it should be quite a good head and wondering if you have any feedback on how the engine went with it on there. Justin

Hi Scott, Not sure if this will help you but might give you a good starting point. Justin

Hi Cam, Bit slow on the posts as it's easy to miss them if not checking them often enough. It's good to see another zed in tassie and I agree with red in regards to getting us all together for a run. In regards to the steering yes they can be quite heavy depending on the setup that's for sure and without sounding bias the unit I do does work very well and certainly transformed my car, your certainly welcome to have a look at it if you ever decide it might be the path you want to go down or even if it's just for interest. Enjoy the car and hopefully we will all catch up one day. Justin.

Thanks Billy, I'll give him a call.

Hi Billy, Thanks for the pictures, looks very good. What valves and springs are you using? Yes they say the exhaust works better if there is a step from the head to the headers. I'll be keen to know what it produces on a dyno Stewart's headers are fairly expensive aren't they? Do you know the size of the primaries? Justin.

Hi Billy, I have the same head that I will be using on my wife's 260. It will be going on a L28 with 87mm bore, triple 45 dellorto's etc. Just wondering if you did much with port size as from what I understand optimum port size is really about 34 to 36mm for a given 44mm intake valve and displacement to keep the air velocity up within the port. I'll have to remove a bit out of the chambers to keep the compression down at 10:1 which will be good as I will be able to unshroud the valves. Justin

Hi Brad, We have both a 260 2 seater with many modifications and a 260 2+2 which is my wife's car that were doing up. The steering does depend on setup but yes even standard they are fairly heavy and if your doing a lot of windy roads it might get a bit much for her as well as parking. But it's not something to put you off there are options, quite a few guys have done power steering conversions that would set you back anywhere from several hundred to few thousand. You have hydraulic rack conversions and or electric power assist columns. I have a electric power assist unit that I make in my 260 and standing still you can go from lock to lock with one finger if you want, other guys can give you advice on hydraulic units as I have never felt or seen on in a zed but there are plenty around. My wife's car is about to get one in a couple of weeks once I finish it. The guys advices on here are good, check the car out, compare what it's going to cost to get it up to a condition compared to what you could pick up one for in the same condition once you get it to the point you like, so compare apples with apples and if it's going to cost less and prepared to do the work go for it. It's always less painful spending money in dribs and drabs then all in one hit if you don't mind the work and wait. Just bare in mind it adds up quickly as the guys on here can tell you. Good luck, there a awesome fun car