600Z

Have you thought that it's the wheel it's self flexing and not so much the stub axle? Could the wheel be flexing more then the stub as if it's the stub then bloody hell there a problem if it's flexing that much....... and I'm not saying that they don't flex as everything does to a degree. Anyway just my 2 cents and why wheels aren't wheels and they make forged ones etc. There's alloy and then there's alloy. I have done a lot of 4wding over the years and had extreme knock back but from a different source, shockies, road surface, tyre pressure all acting on the brake pads themselves causing them to bounce or vibrate due to the weight of them and in turn pushing the pistons back in. Does it's seam worse the longer between braking...... if so them look at that because if it does then it's something else rather then flex which should be pretty much a constant deflection I would have thought as you can only corner so hard. Could be worth trying some half worn pads as they are lighter and see if there is any difference. Justin

If the later flat top carbies have the same clip I'd have one, though won't be able to check for a couple of weeks. Justin

Hi Mitch, Nice work on getting it back after so long and welcome to the forum. Justin

Modify them to run on hydrogen............ Or gas .....

Hi Greg, Welcome to the forum, great to see another Tassie guy here. All the best with the 240 and who knows might see you around sometime. Justin

Hi luvemfast, that's pretty much what I thinking too and as much as you would like too but you don't drive a street car flat out all the time.

Hi guys, does any one know if there would be any gain to have 48's over 45's on a L28 as it does really come down to choke size as to how they flow from what I read. Any thoughts?

If there is room you could get a spiral like a worm wheel turned up and press it onto that section of shaft Obviously make sure it's the right hand so it's not dragging oil from there lol

Sorry to hear about your cars, was it fresh or salt water?

Hi Gyzmo, If your Engineer is happy to have the lower section able to collapse it would be much easier to modify that. Just a thought and how I have done mine.

The four down the centre you have marked are just to block of galleries during the manufacturing.

Hi AJ, They both have good sides about them as for as the conversion goes. In a 260 you can go a 6.0L if you wish though that is the maximum where as in the 240's I'd have to check is a maximum of 5.4L there abouts if I remember correctly as per ADR rules. Have a read of the Vehicle Standards Bulletin 14 in regards to engine conversions though I have added the relevant two pages below. This has caused a bit of a debate at times and I'm not wanting to start any arguments but it is what it is and if you can get around the rules and or work them in your favour all good and well. There are a couple of 260's with the LS conversions done though most do stick with the LS1. My car is on full rego with the 6.0L and 6 speed in Tassie. I'm pretty sure the ruling applies nationally so I don't think it would make any difference being in VIC and or if it's club rego or not, but I don't know about the rego side of things if the club gives you any less restrictions. Not sure if any of that helps but certainly able to be done. Justin.

Oh man I'm feeling for you, at least only fresh water. Lots of work but you might be surprised at how little damage apart from the mud it's done, well let's hope.

Neuby has it right at 32mm compression height but also the gudgen pin is 22mm not a big deal but the compression height is compared to 38.1mm standard. VW Pistons are a easy fit, just have to have a engine shop bore out the small end of your rod 1mm and then turn off 0.9mm and you have standard compression height or more or less if you want to play with compression.

Hi Peter, Thanks for that, looks like people are quite happy with them so I think I will do the same and go with them. Justin

Hi guys I'm wondering if anyone has used Interior Innovations for pre-made seat covers and if so what they are like. I'm needing to have the seats re-covered in my wife's 2+2. Cheers, Justin

Update guys on this, Blue Z was spot on the mark (thanks) it was the differential pressure switch. One o-ring was split and the other had a nick in it so I measured them up and got some EPDM o-rings which are compatible with brake fluid and now working a treat. I also removed the bias proportional valve block from the firewall and installed a Wilwood adjustable unit, so much better as now the rear disc's are getting the extra pressure they require. Cheers, Justin.

Hi Andrew, Personally it would probably be better to get a new unit as it could be the bore worn as well as not only the seals. 7/8" master cylinders are easy to come by new and not badly priced. Otherwise check out one of the brake and clutch places as they might be able to match up the seals. Justin

Lol no not serious was keen to see what you'd come back with Justin

There was also one with a Nissan patrol who wanted a holding deposit, never give deposits as that's the last you will see of it.

That would be great if you could share the specs. Justin

No problem thanks Warren. And should say Wilwood lol Justin

Hi Guys, Thanks for your comments and replies. 44014, that kit looks great though would be an over kill as both of the cars I'm looking for brakes for will only ever be street cars. If I take one on the track it would be the orange one in my profile picture and it has 6 piston front and 4 piston Wilwoods on it, plus it's the quickest by far lol. Cozza, spirited street driving and as we live in Tassie depending on where we go the brakes do get a good work out with not a lot of time to cool on the windy mountain roads. If we lived somewhere else it would be an issue. The standard ones do ok for awhile but then drop off as you can imagine and stopping is always good when there can be nice drop offs on the corners lol. Enzo, I have heard people using commodore fronts but haven't read too much about them though they look good and would certainly allow for the wheels to fit as long as it didn't push the wheel too much further out but I'm guessing it would only be an extra 5 mm or so, so I'd most likely get away with that. Do the calipers bolt straight onto the struts or is there a adapter bracket? Ango, I guess for the same reasons I mentioned to Cozza is why I'm looking at upgrading them, oh and of course for looks too though will be hard to see behind the Wheels. And as you mentioned the 15mm that the caliper sits out is a concern unless there under the 150mm radius to clear the bolts of the wheels. Maybe the rears can stay drums but the fronts I'd like to upgrade as it's a 2+2 so a bit heavier too then the other cars we have. Justin

Hi Guys, Ok I know this has been covered and covered many times over on many forms on how too and what to do for different brake conversions. But to find reviews as to how the different setups perform is not so easy. I have a couple of issues as well as on one of the cars a set of Simmons 16" three piece wheels will be going on and as they are bolted together there is limited room so the brake setup can't protrude much past the hub face where the wheel bolts up. I have a silvermine stage 4 rear brake kit for that was going to be used on that car with the Simmons but it won't fit so it will probably go onto the other 260Z which has the R31 rear setup as it's running superlites and should fit though been lazy and haven't checked lol. My questions are if anyone can give me a bit of advice and how they different brake setups perform are as follows: First 260Z with the 16" Simmons what options don't protrude much past the hub face where the wheel bolts up? (I have clearance of 150mm from the centre of the hub before the bolts of the wheel, so 300mm diameter but then the bolts will foul as they protrude about 10mm back behind the hub face) same issue with the rear obviously. I'm not sure if the s12w calipers will fit or the R32 style but I do want to run ventilated rotors on the front. Is there much of a performance difference between the different four piston setups? And does anyone have any ideas what might fit on the front? The rear I'll probably just swap over the R31 setup unless the maxima type are a lot better though they look to be smaller calipers. Any ideas there? Second 260Z with the superlites I should have plenty of room to run most setups so considering I'll more then likely put the silvermine stage 4 kit on the rear of it with the ventilated rotors and mustang calipers. Do I go the hilux S12W, S13W, R32 type as it all gets so confusing and is there much or enough of a performance difference between them to worry about it? Thanks guys any ideas will be much appreciated. Justin

Hi Warren, Sorry but a bit off the subject though I do have the Elwood brake setup thought I'm running a different setup for the handbrake. But I was wondering from your pictures what companion flanges are fitted to the axle? Regards, Justin