600Z

Thanks guys, I will have to check what the gearbox is that is in it, it's a 77 260z 2+2.

Is there much benefit in changing from a late 260z 5speed?

Hi dat2kman, I take it these will fit in the 260Z's ? Justin.

Hi PB, At the moment the motor is standard in my wife's car but have been collecting parts and another L28 that I will build up. I have come across both ratios so I'm thinking I will get both but will most likely put the 4.11 in my wife's 2+2 which is what the diff is for anyway and have the 3.9 as a spare for my zed. Justin

Thanks guys, it's a manual so I thought it was going to be a 3.7 but wasn't sure. I was leaning towards the 4.11 as well d3c0y, I have a 3.9 LSD to go into mine and take out the 3.7 LSD. Thanks for your input and I'll go the 4.11 for my wife's car.

Also I haven't checked yet what ratio would be in it, it's a 77 and am only guessing that it's the original diff. Any ideas what would the standard ratio?

Thanks Gav, for a 260 2+2 5 speed, motor will be between 250-300 hp once built at a rough guess what ratio would you think be better for a street car? It's going to be going into my wife's car but we're in Tassie so quite windy roads etc down here.

Hi guys I'm just wondering what sort of price is reasonable to buy a R200 Longnose 3.9 and 4.11 open centre diffs would be out of something like a HR31? Justin.

All us Tassie guys should do a drive sometime, be good I think. Justin

Hi ScottyB, Nice pick up, I didn't even see that one for sale, looks like a nice 240. Good to see another zed here in Tassie, might see you around one day. Justin

Hello, as the topic says I'm looking for a 240Z and 260Z steering shaft that is between the column and the steering rack. Justin

Hello Gurbachen, The first one that I made was for my car and I'd hate to think if I had to add the cost of time in working out what parts and modifications I had to do along with getting the unit to operate electricity. One of my mates has just done Targa in his car with one of the columns in it and all went well and I have a couple more that I have to make up, one for my wife's 260Z and another for a 240Z for one of the guys on here. I have done a bit of a write up on the column somewhere in the form but in essence I will be making the up to sell from time to time though they are quite time consuming (not as much as the first one). The column is supplied with everything you need to install it apart from the main 50amp fuse as I'm sure people will like to choose that depending where they want to mount it. So it includes the following: - Converted electric power assist column (Exchange basis for your column) - All wiring supplied. - Weld NDT test certificate for the two welds that need to be done. This is needed if you want to have it legally passed and added as a conversion to be used on the street, otherwise as you know insurance's can be void. - Fitting instructions but you have to choose where you can mount the two control boxes. ( I have the main large one in behind where you would have a radio as I don't have one lol, the other small control box in the glove box but can be mounted anywhere.) Price I'm after for them is $1500 plus postage and your old column so I have one to replace it that I can convert. I certainly know it's changed how my car drives now, no more fighting with caster, wandering, etc. Now it's one hand driving and able to change gears mid corner if needed lol.

Electric power assisted column is so much easier then hydraulic for many reasons. - No change in steering geometry. - No hydraulic pump needed for mounting and or chances of oil leaks. - If it was to fail it is only as heavy as stock steering. - Bolt in to all factory mountings, and wire up and your ready to go. - No power taken from engine for the running apart from very minimal from alternator. - Works without engine running as long as ignition is turned on to accessories. - Slightly adjustable in sensitivity. - For those who want to keep the car original no modifications needed and unless you look under the dash it can't be seen. I guess this is why so many of the car manufacturers have gone to electric power assisted units over hydraulic and why I have too. Just my two cents worth guys. Justin.

Ah yes it is Jason, thanks for that, I'll keep an eye on them and if it looks to be a problem I might do the same. Justin

Hi Agno, $756 from eBay and its comes complete with linkages etc. I haven't received it yet but from the pictures they look very nice. Justin.

Just a quick one guys, I just ordered a Harada manifold from Japan so all good I am no longer looking for one.

Hello guys, looking for a triple dellorto / weber manifold with linkages. Justin

Hi guys I'm after a R200 long nose diff in either 3.9, 4.11 or even a 4.3. Don't mind if it's an open centre. Justin

Ok but the ones I have which must be different you can pull them apart and service them.

Hey mate I have some out of a 260z column if there the same? Justin

I'm glad that some of my last post made some sense as I just re-read it and bits of it was all over the place as I was in a hurry and quickly typed it out....... Should have read it before sending lol Anyway another possibility as you did mention that it pings at times and that's why you retarded your timing. It might take a couple of you but could be worth checking that the advance in your distributor isn't coming on fully too early as this could create pinging and lack of power until things speed up.

Where is your power at the moment as in what revs? Have you checked that your timing mark on your harmonic balancer is actually TDC #1 ? Most likely it's right but something to rule out. Do you have a dial indicator or access to one to check your cam timing? It seams you have and are now starting to go around in a circle and you have checked the compression (which you can't really work out your compression ratio from as there are far too many variables), ignition timing which seams not too bad, and any real changes would now really only give you small gains, air/fuel mixture, the grade of oil in the su's (what air filters and do they allow good flow, try it without them) do the Pistons fully open on the su's? I can't remember if they are over filled if they with hydraulic lock and not fully open or not. I think cam timing is due to be checked now unless you already have by now. There isn't too much more apart from going over the same things that will only give small degrees of increases. If you want to quickly check your cam timing: 1. Place a dial indicator on your inlet valve retainer on the cylinder that's going to be on the roll roughly 20 degrees before TDC but make sure the valve is closed. Zero the dial. 2. Turn the engine over until you get to TDC and record the amount the valve opens. 3. Place the dial indicator on the exhaust valve retainer and make sure you allow for the dial to read in the negative as it will be closing. 4. Turn the engine over until the valve is fully closed and record the amount it was open. 5. Compare the two figures, both the same is neutral, intake open more its advanced (better high rev performance), exhaust open more (better low down torque). Slightly advanced I have found is better but each to their own. That's just my two cents mate but check one and get it close to being correct as you can then move on and check the next until everything is checked then tweak.

Hi Tim, Years ago I had one that was re-drilled with 8 holes which allowed for a larger degree of adjustment and I found it very good. I use to set the cam then try each hole at a time until I found one that lined up or very close then check the timing again after the sprocket was fitted. As for a wedge I never use them, just drop a long screwdriver down handle first that just fits between your timing chain and as long as you can grab it with your fingers etc to get it out who cares if the chain drops of the bottom sprocket just as long as your chain tensioner doesn't come too far out otherwise you will have to guide it back in with a long probe while pulling on the chain to push it back in (yes it works I had to do it for a mates car, the internal Spring normally stops you from loosing it too far). A wedge loads up your guides and can slip...... Just my thoughts and experience. Justin

Hi guys, Another quick one i have been through this in the past with members on here so I'm not about to go through or over the ruling of this, if you have got your 240's passed with larger engines eg. LS1 or alike great i just hope nothing happens that may ask questions as it is pretty straight forward and hense why 260's are preferred for V8 conversions as we can use the 260 2+2 weight. Technically 240 drivers can't. Read the vehicle standards bulletin 14 for further information. I know this may create a debate which I'm not really wanting or intending to start but just do your research and make, twist or take the chance its your decision at the end of the day and what risks you may want to take. Again guy's I'm not trying to upset or put anyone off side but he should know and get what information he can.

Hi Cliff, Just a note and this will create a bit of a debate but be very careful in regards to engine displacement as in a 240Z weighing 1100kg your allowed 4.4 litre max!!! A 240Z is NOT a 260Z even though it's still a S30. It's what's on the compliance plate. Do your homework if you want it to be legal, see attached ruling.