600Z

Hello WogsRus, Another thing you could consider which some people don't seam to do too much with is check your cam timing. Slightly advanced will give you better top end power while slightly retarded will give you better low down torque. This is done by checking the lift of your intake and exhaust valves on the roll of the cam. If your crank is at TDC #1 then #6 will be on the roll where both valves will be open (exhaust closing, intake opening). If you check with dial indicators onto your valve spring retainers and check the amount of lift each valve has (2 dials much easier and zeroed with valves closed) you can turn your crank towards TDC #1 until you get both reading the same amount of lift, remember exhaust will be closing and intake opening. Then check and see where your timing mark is on your harmonic balancer is. If it's before TDC your cam is advanced, if it's after it's retarded. The stock cam sprocket has three holes for adjustment of cam timing, I made a drilling jig and drilled more holes around it so I had a total of eight which allowed for many more positions (trail and error) and found that it ran (my engines setup) best at 2degs BTDC and pulled hard to 7500rpm - 8000rpm. I think there are adjustable sprockets available if you wanted to go down that path but drilling the stock one works well, its not like you change it after you have it right and it can't slip either. It's fiddly to do but I found it well worth doing if you have a different cam and your after performance. Think I'm up to 4 cents of input now lol

I forgot to ask if the rotor button in the distributor has any play as in if you try and turn it back and forth if there is any slop and or if you can turn it against the advancing mechanism and springs?

Hello WogsRus, Sounds like the advance in the distributor may not be working too well. I don't know the distributor your using but in the past I had a fair bit to do with running electronic distributor on a L20B engine and given that there pretty much the same I would have thought 10deg BTDC at idle and have it fully advanced by around 3000RPM 32deg BTDC. If your distributor you have has the mechanical advance within it you either weld up the limit stops or file them out so you have 11degs in the distributor which will give you 22degs at the crank. Also spot weld up your vacuum advance plate so there is no chance of it moving and changing your timing. That worked very well for me and was how Murry Coote in Brisbane who was at the time heavily into Datsun engines told me how to set it up. Though I don know your setup and distributor but that worked very well for me and many others at the time. Just thought I would throw my 2 cents out there lol Justin

Ah no problem I have no idea if there the same length or not. The setup looks good, what stub axle are you running there?

Might be a silly question Peter but I take it your using the original drum brakes? If so no doubt you have adjusted the drum it's self before the handbrake?

Hello guys I'm after a 260z steering column, from lower control arms and possibly the radius arms as well. Justin

Hello TDoherty, Welcome to the forum, I think I remember seeing your car when it was for sale thinking now that's a nice car but wasn't in a position to steel it from you lol. The aftermarket central locking systems normally only have a motor drive or solenoid that uses a linkage that is clamped to the locking leaver to lock or unlock the lock. Should be very simple to remove as there shouldn't be any difference in the original locking system. Justin

Hello Hokin, Welcome, I was like you flicking through this forum from time to time and then decided to join not so long ago. It's good to see another 260Z owner to compete with all the 240 guys, even though I did want a 240 myself and ended up with a 260 lol not complaining though. Justin.

Might pay to hunt around on the Europe sites or UK as I think they were fitted to the cars that went there so they could turn on just one side of the parking lights when parking half on the side walk and half on the street? Justin

Hello Dan, You haven't thought about a V8 conversion? Justin.

Is it this one? http://www.courtesyparts.com/rear-differential-mount-1979-1983-280zx-r200-p-569134.html Justin

Hello Peter, Thanks for that I was hoping it might have been larger but it didn't look it from just looking under the car. And yes I know there is only one diameter a bore can have if its round otherwise ovality, taper, cloverleaf etc or a mixture of any or all of them. But yes I shouldn't have mentioned the dimensions of the bush and didn't want someone replying clearance on a 14mm bolt (being the bush). Will have to choose my words more clearly next time me thinks lol. But the 36mm nominal size was all I was looking for.

No problem Triptych, When I get it all checked by the engineer and passed by him I will flick you a couple of pictures of the finished colunm then it will be up to you if you want one. If you decided you want one made up there are a few things to consider. 1. I will supply a NDT certificate for the welds so we both know there are no problems with them and then it's up to you if you go through vehicle modifications for approval and have your engineer inspect it and added to a vehicle modification plate so it's legal. (You would need the NDT test certificate of the welds anyway in this case) 2. Then how you want it sitting under the dash, the motor of mine will be at this stage on the left of the column and pointing at about 45degs up to the left under the dash to make it harder to see, in my car there's enough room for it there, or horizontal like the ones from the states or Japan where you can see the motor, which would still be out of the way but more visible. 3. If I supply the column or you do. At this stage I don't have a spare one to convert but I'm looking for one so I can do exchange basis if I start making a few up. Also, I too like the ones from the states and Japan would state that it's only to be used for race applications and not for street use and recommend to have it approved by vehicle modifications, inspected by an approved engineer and added to the vehicle modification plate if being used for street applications and I hold no responsibility for any harm or damage that may occur from the use of it. Hope you understand but one has to cover themselves in this day and age if you can understand that. Not that I can see there being as if it fails it's just back to non-power steering and it's certainly very strong as I'm using all OEM items from a few different vehicles then cutting and joining them (interference fits and welded) together to make one. A lot less that can or could go wrong compared to hydraulic conversions and not much goes wrong with them. It would be a mirror copy of the one that I have done for my car that will be approved by vehicle modifications, approved engineer inspected, passed and added onto my modification plate making it legal to be used on the road in Australia. Below is a picture of it nearly finished and semi assembled. Justin.

Just wondering if anyone knows off hand what the dimensions the bush is on the front LCA or even the inside diameter of the bore in the control arm. I don't want to take mine off to check it at the moment and upset my settings. Justin

Well I have the RE003's but only got them a day before going back to work so will be 4 weeks or so before I get to try them out.

Hello again Triptych, Yes that was one of the two things I was not happy with about the units from the U.S. and Japan. I'm sure there very good as they do them for a lot of different cars as well it's just not how I would have done the lower section of the colunm. Mine is still collapsible but ridged as I'm not using two universals like I think there still using on those units. Not that I'm saying mine is any better, just done a little different. I'll start back on it in 4 weeks when I get back home and shouldn't take too long to get it in and going so I will let you know how it all goes. Justin.

Well vehicle modifications have given me the go ahead for my electric power assisted steering. Now when I get back home in 4 weeks I just have to get it inspected by my engineer which shouldn't be a problem and I'm set ????. Then the fun bit...... The wiring up so its speed sensitive. Best being careful not to let any smoke out of the electrics or wiring lol.

Hi Doug, They look like nice tyres, are they expensive? The Bridgestone RE003 they have buy three and get one free so got the four for $642. I'm just hoping they will be good but they do get good reports. Justin

Hey Jackson have you had any luck? Justin

Hello 44014, I have heard they perform well but yes like the Toyo R1R's I have at the moment wear quickly. Apparently these Bridgestone RE003 are supposed to be good so I guess next week when I get them I will have an idea what there like. They are suppose to have quiet stiff side walls as well.

Hi Andoi, Thanks for posting that comment and I will post my thoughts on them hopefully next week sometime when I get them.

Well i have ordered the Bridgestone RE003 so will see how they go.

When it's cold and first starts up how does it run? Justin

Hey Jackson pull off your distributor cap and look up inside it to see if there is any condensation, if so let it dry out. If there is any moisture in there this causes the the spark to short out all over the place within the distributor cap and not sending it to the right spark plug. Justin

Hi Mick, zed240au I am wondering what hand brake setup you have in your 240 as I would like to get away from the hydraulic. Justin