600Z

I'll have to check my spring rate tomorrow but if i didn't preload them I wouldn't have any travel up left or very little I think. Just enough preload to hold the spring sounds good.

Thanks for that, talking about memory i had my strut out just the other day and you think I can remember what springs are in the front of mine 😆 bit it's sounding like yours are firmer. I know I have to preloaded my quite a bit to get the ride height in the middle of the shocks travel. One click from the softest you don't have them bottoming out? Justin

Oh and Murray Coote Automotive don't do any that will fit into my welded on tubes so i would have to cut them off and start again, which may not be a bad option.

I don't know Murray apart from saying hello back then as i was dealing with a guy called Dave who has a dark green 1600. With the Reds you have what spring rate do you have? and me being in Tassie the roads are not the best at all, sometimes i feel like i should wear a kidney belt lol. My zed that have the coil overs is the orange one with the 6.0L in it but from what i remember there isn't too much difference in weights so I'd be thinking I would get away with the same or similar spring rate. Justin

Hi Jeff, Thanks, I have sent them an email with pictures etc to see if they are able to help me. If possible although not the cheapest option but it would be nice to run a set of there's for sure, nice gear. I use to deal with them a little bit back in the early 90's (showing my age now lol) when i was building a 2.1L with a rare 219 cylinder head and they have always been great. Do you know if Murray is still alive? I had a set of webers that Iain Stewart (his co driver) did a lot of work on to get them to run better but then changed to 48mm dellortos which were sooo much better. Hopefully they will be able to come up with something though i might have to cut the welded tube i have on off and start again. His 1200 coupe was a weapon, a friend of mine at the time ended up with his cylinder head and 55mm webers from that on his 1600 drag car and i still have one of their ported heads from back then collecting dust lol. Justin

Hi Guys, Well the time has come that one of my shocks has bleed its oil out into the strut tube, no wonder it was starting to handle a bit funny Arizona Z Car use to use HSD shocks with their coil overs and I'm wondering if anyone might know what model/part number they are through HSD. HSD have changed there housings now to a larger size by the looks of it which doesn't help. Otherwise, does anyone know what other shocks might use 50x2mm housing to save me from having to cut the welded tubes off. Cheers, Justin

Very true I did ask a simple question lol. Thanks for that, I do like the look of the linkage system and the better looking arms on them. Just didn't want to order one to find out there not to good. It will be just for a street engine and im guessing it will be better than a Canon manifold I have sitting there that needs linkages anyway. Cheers, Justin

C.A.R. Apart from both fitting and making brum brum noises like you said last time i tried to get some sensible feedback. We all know the obvious 🙄 And don't say they both suck, there is no such thing as suction.

Cool, its not easy to find anyone who has. What's your thoughts on them compared to the Harada manifolds? Are they worth the extra money? Cheers

Hi guys, has anyone had any experience with these manifolds at all? Cheers, Justin

Yes I did see someone have issues with the Harada with their thermostat housing somewhere.

Yes true though I have read good reports and certainly a bit different. I have a couple of sets of triple Dellorto's so I'll certainly go with them I think.

Or do I sell the sets of triple Dellorto's and just run two hsr 45's or 48's and they certainly seem to produce good power from after the guy on church doing a test between SU's, Mikuni 44's and twin 45 HSR's. HSR's produced 22hp more than the SU's and 8hp more than the Mikuni's.

Lol yes I know both will fit as their both for L6 engines along with the brum brum noise from triples which we all love. Just wondering more so if anyone has used the OER and if the pedal feels smooth etc, any difference anyone might know in performance possibly eg. Port shape/length between the two. The linkage arms look better and stronger on the OER one where I have heard of the Harada ones can slip on the shaft. So just any constructive feedback I guess. Both types use the original linkage system though yes the Harada is also available with the cable option which I wouldn't be using. I have a cannon manifold but no linkages so by the time I get linkages to suit I'm part way there to a better manifold so I'm thinking of selling it and getting one of these just deciding on which one. Cheers,

Hi Guys, I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience with the OER triple manifold which is the copy of the Sanyo type and how it would compare to the Harada manifold. Cheers, Justin

Hello Oliphips, Sorry for the late reply i have only just seen your reply. How much would be be after for it? Cheers, Justin

Hi guys, I'm chasing like the title says 260Z steering columns and Bluebird series 2 distributors if anyone has anything laying around. Cheers, Justin

Hi Danny, sounds like you have the right one. the slots limit the total advance, weights and springs govern how fast eg. revs that the weights move out advancing the timing. Make sure all that is free moving etc. Do you have any pictures of it? I had issues with 3 280ZX electronic distributors that from idle if you gave the engine a quick short rev they would retard the timing by 10 and up to 15 or more degress. With parts near impossible to get, the magnet breaks in the if looked at the wrong way i think all added to my issues. I have since then built 2 different electronic distributors which work so much better and give a much more stable timing throughout the rev range. One having later Hitachi insides into the 280ZX distributor and the other using a Bluebird series 2 distributor with Bosch 6 cylinder insides. Both require quite a bit of work to modify but work much better then the 280ZX ones. Both are running close enough to 12 - 13 degress advance in the distributor so about the 25 degs at crank so at idle at 10 BTDC they will advance to 35 deg BTDC and so forth. Both even at 5000 - 6000 rpm the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is clear and stable with the timing light. I have also heard of someone using the insides out of a RB30 but i haven't looked into them as the two types i have done work very well anyway. Food for thought as there are other options in upgrading them. Cheers

Well finished the sprocket and also made up a drilling guide as i have a couple to do. This will make adjusting cam timing a bit easier now.

All good guys I have worked it out on my rotary table on my mill. I will end up with 8 settings 0, +4, +8, +10 (might change to +11), -3, -6, -9 and -12 Degree adjustments. The Optional Cam Sproket 13024-E4621 has the following: 0, +3, +6, +9, -3, -6, -9, -12 Degree adjustments. Hopefully it will give a bit more adjustment to allow for closer cam timing Justin

Hello Everyone, Just wondering of anyone has the degree's of the holes in the 8 hole cam sprocket that gives you more choices for cam timing to make it a bit easier to know where to drill them as 0,4 and 8 deg's doesn't give too many options with the 3 original holes. Cheers, Justin

Ok cheers for that

Hi Angie, From what I have read they go as follows. So wouldn't f11 be worse? Basic range of Emulsion tubes is; LEAN: F14, F11, F15, F16, F9, F2, F5, F8, F7 :RICH Cheers, Justin

Hi guys just wondering if anyone has a set of chokes to suit 45mm webers for sale 34mm or 32mm set of 6. Cheers, Justin

Hello, Im looking for a set of 6 Weber F2 emulsion tubes to either buy or possibly borrow to see if it fixes the issue of breaking down as they go from the primary to main circuit. In the Weber tuning book they are saying the F16 emulsion tubes are too lean. Cheers, Justin