600Z

Hi guys just wondering what a 4.3 R200 would be worth as a matter if interest?

I’m glad you enjoyed your time in Tassie, looks like you struck lovely weather too. Justin

Thanks Lachlan that’s a very cool calculation program I think I’ll stick with my original plan and use one of the 4.11’s I have it’s just that I know where there is a 4.375 diff but probably not worth worrying about as the 4.11 will certainly be an improvement over the standard 260Z ratio. Whats the going price for a 4.375 R200 open diff? Hi Peter, it’s actually not for my orange 260 with the LS, I have a 3.7 LSD in that but I do have a 3.9 LSD to go into it to try. Should make it a bit more pokey I’m thinking on our roads down here. I am working out what diff to put into my wife’s 2+2 and I might even change the diff out in my other 260Z to pick it up a bit more after I get my finger out and fit one of my sets of Dellorto’s. The motor in that one is a L28 with flat tops and a P90 head somit would be nice to liven it up a bit. How was your road trip down there? I was annoyed that I was away at work and didn’t get to catch up. Cheers, Justin

Hi Lachlan, At this stage not 100% sure but probably 225/50/16 id say. Justin

Thanks guys I think I will see if I can check what 5th gear ratio my gear boxes are, there 260Z boxes as far as I know but I have a couple so I’ll do some checking. The 4.3 would obviously be better for acceleration just don’t want it screaming on the highway at 110km/hr. Justin

Hi guys I’m just wondering what ratios you guys like running and I know it’s a bit like how long is a piece of string as it depends on what your doing with it. For a street car in tassie where we’re not out for land speed records but for cruising the mountain roads that Tassie has to offer would you go a 3.9, 4.11 or 4.3 Also what’s a 4.3 open R200 worth? Cheers, Justin

Yes thats the same 240 in tassie that i mentioned. The car was bought new in perth and the guy sinced moved to Tassie. I have lots of photos of this car and I do have to say it has next to no rust at all and is what they say.

If anyone is interested let me know and I can pass on his number but I do know he has someone coming to look at it this weekend. Justin

Ok thanks guys, the asking price is 35k so I’m guessing he’s pretty much on the mark there abouts. It hasn’t been driven in several years as when the rego ran out he put it on the hoist but started every now and then so I sure it would need a bit of work here and there but but still looked pretty good when I had a look at it today.

Hi guys a bit of an idea of value on this 240Z if you can. its a 73, One owner with all receipts Been repainted years ago with few spots peeling but no rust anywhere. Very straight apart from dents in doors from where people have opened doors onto it. Interoir totally original down to the radio but dash has two cracks. Motor needs new rings. 120k original miles. cheers, Justin

And probably the cheapest too. Otherwise you could try uship, truckit.net, loadshift, loadbid etc and see what quotes they come up with for enclosed trailer etc. Justin

A decent waterproof car cover and have it on a trailer?

I could drive it up lol

Hi Alexander, Nice intro and Cecil looks like a nice 240. I’m thinking that after you get that E88 head done up and the new carbs on it would even be better. I look forward to seeing some more pictures in time, I do like the silver Cheers, Justin

So I’d better off keeping the LSD diff then I’d say. Might be good in my wife’s 260 then. cheers

They look good, I’m thinking of fitting a helical S15 centre though haven’t heard to much about them if it’s worth it or not.

I suppose it’s a fine line when restoring cars as I must admit when you see some builds and what’s replaced using donor cars on to the original car, and in some cases there really isn’t much of the original car. What happens if that section of the firewall was rusted away and needing replacing....? Though yes I know that’s not the case but..... So I guess doing it that way it’s just the other way around lol. As we know that little section of the body of some cars is preconceived to be worth more then the rest of the car and some people will pay more just because of it when you can in most cases you can buy the same or even better car for less but maybe not just with the so called desirable numbers. So my question I guess would be what’s acceptable a car that’s had that much replaced with donor parts compared to a good solid car that’s the same but with only the small section of firewall replaced that’s just happened to have some numbers stamped into it. Neither of the cars would then be original so which one is acceptable? And why? Just my thoughts and we all know it’s been done plenty of times before. Say you had say a very low numbered 240 and wrote it off and you also had a not so low but very nice 240 would you contemplate doing the cut and shut of the numbers or would you be happy just to let it go to the scrap yard? Just my thoughts and a lot of so called original cars are just a perception of being original. Cheers, Justin.

Hi Linton, Do you have the bush as a sample? Justin http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/steering/steering-gear

There is some good info out there for sizing up Weber’s and Dellorto’s out there that you can read though the main thing is obviously your choke size to ensure a good differential of air pressure from one side to the other somf7el can be drawn through the air and fuel jets to ensure good atomization of the fuel. Without this differential it makes it very hard for the carbs to work properly unless you have lots of air flow to increase this (larger chokes and less difference in size to the throttle bore size). You do have optimum choke to throttle bore size for these to allow the cards to work properly. 45’s won’t give you more power unless you need the extra 5mm to run larger chokes for your application. Check out the attached pages I have added on sizing for you. But remember smaller is better in choke size for response but you do loose out top end. Be realistic about how you will be using the car as most of your driving on the road is from idle to mid rpm range. Hope it helps or it just might add to the confusion lol

Just remember both uni’s have to run through the same angle but opposite so they cancel each other out or you will get vibrations.

Hi guys just wondering what requirements do you need to be able to race there? Cheers, Justin

Looks great and I bet a lot of fun too. Justin

Ok looks like these are worth a fair bit then, I have 3 sitting in my shed

I’d like to know too as to why the 2 seater 260Z’s are not even higher then the 240’s and yes the only thing I hear is that the 240’s were the first...... the first of everything always gets improved upon...... From what I could find with some digging around on numbers of cars that came to Australia i found the following: 240Z's : 2358 260Z's : 1123 These are 2 seater versions of the 260Z's Not sure how accurate it’s all I could find, I'm sure others might have some better numbers. So this asks the most obvious question...... WHY?......... Why are they cheaper when less then half the number of the 240’s were imported....... now I’m not too good at maths but this would suggest that they are just a tad more rare. Cheers, Justin

How old are they?