dat2kman

Have seen up and out 15-15, but depending on amount of lowering, alter the Up. Idea is to get front LCA going downwards at outboard end I have a Z cross,ember here that is 20-20, it has had additional plating and bracing welded ( rally car)

So, just to clarify, Zccq have their own grid of 15 cars, you need to be a financial member, and be invited, to be in this elite group of 15. Anyone else can contact QR/Lakeside, and enter, in other groups, or if enough others can organise themselves to run as a group of 15, or less, you can purchase your own "group" direct from the track operator. No requirement to have a cams license, or be a member of any cams club. Way easier !! Not at all like the 25th anniversary event, where the zccq just bought the day, and let everyone who had a Nissan Datsun was able to just come out and play, three groups, total 60 cars! That was fun ! In OP, there are lots of other things being planned to coincide with this, we might hopefully be told, after.

I've got one f those countershafts,,, brand new, in box, ex Nissan. Just the countershaft,,,,,,

No need for uneducated gossip. I know what is going on! Simple! Have been asked to allow the organising club to release the information, and, i have recommended that this information be distributed sooner than what is proposed. You forgetRichard, i have contacts in many areas of motorspirt, including most of the personnell that are running the event in 2015. It's a CAMS thing,,, you just simply would not understand. Pop out side, there's a cloud scooting by, it needs a shouting at!

Current diff is r180? If so a 260Z R200 will bolt in, may need to alter holes on rear diff mount to back of diff cover plate. Drill or file. If contemplating a LSD, easier to locate for r200's, one from a DR30 Skyline, but it is a 4.3 ratio, the lsd centre can swap in. Some had larger diam cwp bolts, ,,,, there are threads on this site on the sleeves you use to use the smaller 260z cwp bolts.

Obviosly Murica, but what the?

For sale, Nissan Competition MLS Head Gasket, new in packaging. Suit up to 91.5 mm 1.5 mm thick. These can be re-used a number of times with application of spray on Hylomar. $400 Can package and post.

Another way to lower, without compromising the operation of the strut shock or spring, is to reduce the height of the strut top. Drop car 1/2" and retain rubber cushioning, ir a bit over 1" and go solid, still retains original strut top!

Clutch dumps in 2/3rd, snapping bolts, loosening screws, turning up boost, incorrect bolts ( no shanks) on tailshaft, unkown history cv's. What can go wrong! Viscous centre, pinion gear teeth, crownwheel bolts, checked these items. Fit correct shanked bolts to tailshaft Sometimes, the front diff mount "looks" fine, but needs to be pulled out and stretched/deformed to check if rubber is perished/cracked. The SuperPro type rear bushes tend to transmit more noise.

no worries, you front up with a car with same engine capacity class and whatever mods fitted as per similar spec that the event organisers will be stipulating, and we'll go have a play. Bit silly fronting up with a torque monsta, and not playing with other six cylinder torque monsta's!

Excellent news! Do let us know Aubrey, looking forward to it!

I'm no spokesperson, i just know! Read my pist at bottom of second page. Decision been made it seems. Why add in another layout that not only daunts newbies, as well as introduces the wtf factor for the regular users. Oh wait, You. Dont. Use. Morgan Park. Or Bathurst, or Eastern Creek,,,,, Facepalm

How about no! Intention is to not scare or cause concern for first timers, and the once per year runners. The circuits have been chosen, 2 of them. And maybe something short and sweet as a sort of hillclimb type thing? Me, i'd like a night sprint, on the original Short circuit, 900 metres, and it all happens right in front of grandstand. That was done many times in early 1990's, was great fun, and the organisers can keep an eye out on all cars much eadier. Who would like a go at a night sprint???

Well,,, i just done it! See who crawls out woodwork! Who'd it come from?

Try Snooks Motorsport down there, they have a few, have been known to sell them, sometimes. You posted on any dirt forums? Or me to post for you!

Now we ( some of those from other Datsun clubs) know whats happening for next Easter! Had a great meeting here yesterday with a number of key people, and I handed over a large amount of file notes, drafts, CAMS information, the Supplementary Regs, the classes structure sheets, and the then 2009 DatNats Sprints "bible" of how it was run, to the current guys that are organising the 2015 DatNats. Stay tuned for some very very good news on what is going to be happening. Looking over the paperwork supplied, it was as if it was just a very short while ago we did this! It looked to be a very daunting task, but at end of day, the 2009 Datnats ran very smoothly,, and it was not that hard to do it! Now, back to the Fury 120Y. Engine/box to come out, continue to rebuild front end! Or, do I finish that SR2.4VE on Quads, with C/R box for the animal 1966 Roadster?

I'm carless atm, i'll see if zed74 ( richie gragra) could collect it from 260det.

Happy to sell you an ultra rare RHD 280Z race car! Going by what the US road transport Authourities allow on their roads, this lowered nousy angry 280Z would fit right in!

Simon, You thinking what i'm thinking?

A member on here, 260det is selling off a fair bit f 240z stuff, ncluding dash, steering column, wheel, he has a veritable pile of a collection of collected bits over many years of playing with Zeds. He's not too keen on packaging and shipping items, you'd need someone on your behalf to go and collect, package up and arrange shipping, from this end. I can do it if need be.

Easy to build a house, gettin' harder to build a Z!

Geez Dave, she's growing up! That vid of her in the passenger seat of your Dat, around Eastern Ck is a hoot! To see what can go WRONG, do the chart thing, with the geometry extremely incorrect, and graph that up! It will show just how little incorrect setup, can have big effect on bad wipe, as well as not allow full lift at valve. We do the 50 thou before and after, looking at lift, wipe etc, on a dummy assemble engine using very light springs. Setting up the FJ24 was certainly an education, as the lobes act direct on a bucket, that has a lash cap under it, then changing the cam timing via adjustable sprockets x2, relative to TDC,,,,, And on and on!

Oh my gawd! Burk,, love it! Ok easiest way is to use the depth rod stick thing that pokes out end of a slide verniers, and check depth of each hole WITH the timing cover held in place by hand. Before you even fit gadkets or sealants to gadkets. I just hope he remembers the two small bolts that attach head to timing cover. One of the timing cover bolts also holds on the strap that is the adjuster for the alternator, that bolt may have extra eadhers, to align the long curved slotted bracket square. Hope this helps!

Yes, see my post in shaving head. You supply any old bumpystick, it gets ground, but only within the limits. To get ia higher lft, more duration, they can be spray welded up, then straightened ( they will bend) and ground. An undrilled spraybar cam, can eadily can have oil holes drilled , to eliminate spray bar. If using a drilled cam, AND a spray bar, fit the higher volume oil pump, and drill out the blck to head oil gallery reducing nozzle plug thingy.

By undercutting the base circle diameter, ( the rocker pad then has to be moved upwards), and then taking a bit ff the lobe tip, and then reshaping the backside of the lobe, this gives duration, ie valve open longer.