dat2kman

Gav, I just come from det's place with the diff for Gareth. James flett is here on Sat, he could bring it back, you'd need to talk to him about sticking it in his ute for you.

Tolded Ya! He's been around for years. When the works rally cars came to Australia, the Aussie camshaft shops couldnt get a hold of the cams quick enough, to run them up in the profile machines and copy them. We here ended up making them a lot better! Tell us your pricing from SWR when you get it! You Victorian guys should stick with and promote your lcal suppliers. Wade cams was one, but no longer. Clive Cams bought all Wades data, stock, machinery. Keep it Australian! We're better!

You don't see many Katana's come up for sale! Or Kwaka Z1R Mk2's

And did you call Clive Cams, they are local to you!

Call in to Clive Cams, (melbourne) they are very knowledgable and will give you good advice. Some on this forum will strongly encourage you to stick in the biggest wildest lumpiest cam, "cos not race car"! Theres a related thread here about head shaving, how much etc, lots of suggestions there, poor op, totally confused! Me , in your shoes, i'd be putting a nice gentle ( not aggresdive) equivelemt to, 72 degree in it. Not too ,uch duration, and that will keep good air velocity through the 40mm carbs. Go larger, and it'll start to spit, fart and stumble at some point. Yes it will need a rejig of rocker geometry, and new thicker lashpads.

Aub, i get it that you are told to "tow the line, - dont upset the apple cart" etc. BUT, THAT is the biggest load of HORSE SH1T i have ever heard. Plenty, and i mean plenty of other CAMS affiliated clubs do not adopt that load of drivel! It is quite obvious that some elitist Z-centric only dudley-do-right, has read something and mis-interpreted ot. It just makes the ZCCQ come across as a "closed shop" or elitist. How in the heck is a newbie, ie anyone outside "The Cone of Zedness" supposed to see what the club is all about, turn up for things that are promoted, go to meetings, be an interested bystander, With a pitential view to then participate and join in, if this rubbish is pushed. All the Historic Car clubs, VHRR, HSRCA, HRCC, all promote themselves to outsiders, encourage non members to attend functions and events, even offer a "day licence" and "one day membership" to let people see and enjoy. MGcar club Qld do this at Mt Cotton a couple times a year. And plenty clubs organise social day runs, get togethers swap meets, and all warmly wrlcome non-members. What is this gonna mean for the 2015 DatNats?? We all get wrapped in cotton wool as we cross the border into Qld?

I'll have the sledgehammer ready for dem loose tappits, ok! No Jake, he wont punch, just kick! It's just a light informal G'day and welcome to Brisbane, james prob arrive about 4 pm, so if you can rock up about 4.30, that'd be good. The day run will probably be all over by then anyway! ZCCQ doing a run? Lofty Drews, a veritable legendary rally navigator, in Africa! It's a crying shame they dont publish these sorts of things on their website, otherwise they could get newbies interested in such stuff. There was a local Brisbane Swap Meet, a few months back, again, nothing? Now, i dare anyone to look up where when and what times the official club monthly or bi monthly meetings are? Used to be at Shannons in West End? Theres a bit of a feed and a drink thing at a local pub, is this a club meeting night?

I'd suggest stick with the 487, good all round cam. 74 deg will start to get lumpy, higher idle, and be doughy up to 3500rpm Dont get concerned with a skim shave off block and head, it will not alter comp, and you can run normal fuel. As Dave above, you, or your workshop, needs to be fairly particular with lbe wipe on the rocker pads. Plenty of shops will say YeahYaeh, we know how to do it, but ask them how many L series have they done! Send peter mc, via Lurch above, a pm, he may be able to knock it up for you, and it will be done right. He's over Moe way, but worth the trip.

Ha ha, good yoke , Yake!

Why are there none at wreckers? Because the diff and tailshaft shops go on a big shopping spree every couple months! Ggrrr

James has sold his immaculate Orange Z, as featured on Aus Classic Car mag, to a Brisbane Z and general car entusiast, and is delivering it personally! Nice guy or what! And he is returning to Sydney, with PeterRX5 on here' Mazda chicken cooker. ( all waiting for the big announcement Peter!!) On Saturday night we are hosting James for the evening at The Gap. If any of the Qld Z folk would like to meet James, say G'day, and talk engines, or other stuff, let me know. Looking at late till bit after sundown. If you feel need to eat or drink, bring a snag or two, and a couple of what you like. We can fire up the dead cow final processor device.

N42 heads come stock at 44.6 cc chamber volume, a dished piston adds 7 cc, a std head gadket is about 2 cc. Stock comp is nothing huge. Your engine is stock, virgin, and is prob in need of just more than the head off, leave block in situ. Pull the lot out, and ask around either on here, or local engine shops, and do the job properly. The block will need hot tanking, oil galleries cleaned out. No need for bigger bore, run a FlexHone tool up the bores, give it a set of stock flatops, or retain your own pustons, and re-ring. Naturally, new bearings, and have the block decked by 4 thou, for good head gadket seal. The head, whip 4 thou off that, if it is warped, then may e a deeper cut. Stick with stock size valves etc, a three cut valve job, or even a decent hand lapping, if seats are in good nick. Some of the more cluey blokes on here, in Melbourne, could do this in their backyard sheds. You spund like you just looking for a freshen up, not a full race screamer. The svary thing, if you are on a budget, if it goes into a commercial workshop, it can get up there in the $$$.

Of that happened after assy, your bloke failed to use special part no blah blah, which is a block f wedge wood, with a bit of wire through it, to pull it out. Usually fitted once tdc of no 1 established, and prior to front cover going on. Fit head with cam sprocket and chain onto cam, then prise out wood. That spring will force put plunger as soon as tension on chain is relieved. $100 plus or minus $20 is about right, used to be lots cheaper,,,, moons ago, when plentifull!

Clive Cams bought all the stock, patterns, machinery and blanks from Wades, that grind is quite common, well known. You can get away with a trueing cut, on a virgin head of around 10-15 thou. When you get into the 20 thou upwards, ie when half of the stamped "Nissan N42" is missing along the bottom, between no1-2 spark plugs, Then you need to some stuff to your guides, and chain tensioner plunger mount block. I posted the details in this, this morning, i think topic was about Chain Tensiioner or something.read that. You head gasket is a bit ordinary now, with that milky oil. Can get away with just replacing it, but head will need a trueing cut, 4 to 6 thou, surface finish of Ra40 ( the shop will know what that means)

What has caused that, in the pic on the link, is age and wear. Chain stretch ( massive!) The straight and curved guides will have nice deep twin grooves. The top and bottom sprockets will have "hook" shaped teeth. The plunger itself will have deep grooves too. Replace the plunger and its block, both straight and curved guides, the two sprockets, and the chain All are available from Nissan dealers. If you are shaving the head, ( a few thou, say 6-10 for a skim/trueing cut, that doesnt matter) but if taking a decent cut, ie 30-40 thou or more, Use a small file and file out the bottom mount hole on curved guide, so that bottom of curved guide moves inwards a bit, 2 mm is enough. The mount block on the plunger unit, file the two mount holes also by 2 mm, to move the block inwards, then to stop it moving back outwards, get hold of a roll pin the thing that has a slit down its length, use a fine slitting disc on a grinder to then make two halves. Shorten to suit height of block, slip into the elongated holes, to then hold the block in the new inwards position. Cheap easy, amd a very common practice with engine builders very familiar with L series! Or, buy a Kameari chain tensioner assy! Approx $700

Motor and box are?

James Flett is racing for the thrpee days at Eastern Ck, Muscle Car Masters, did alright too. Set pole position in two qualifying sessions! He'll be back on deck Monday, no doubt, try him then.

Get a stock one, machine the backside, to the 17-18 lbs. A 200B/Bluebird off a L20B will give you a smaller diam clutch cover, reducing the rotational mass, and getting it closer to centre You can buy a Daiken clutch assy that will clamp to approx 750 lbs. They are 200mm diam clutches Or if you want more clamp, and a better quality clutch plate is to be used, get the cover re-levered. Mine clamps at 1350 kgs, that one has 280hp at flywheel. A Datsun Spirts 2000 clutch assy bolts on i put 245 hp at fly through these The alloy with steel insert units have been known to warp, and your ability to hold torque is a lot less.

Grind off L28- And restamp L26 In JDM markets the L28 was carbied. The FIA Homologation papers say so.

Thanks for spell check Gav, being vision impaired i dont see everything as often, and being on an ipad, there is no f7 button, or whatever it is. At least i can thumb/forefinger zoom in/ out, and fine stuff, its a three finger tap tap. Yes prick of a thing, glasses do not help, and it cant be fixed. Spellcheck away!

S O L D

Nah Mike, Everytime one car gets cut up in the rear, just makes yours and mine more rarer!

You use book no 1 above, stick to that, you'll be pretty close to or under your 5k. You start using book 2, you'll kiss 10k away pretty quickly! Thats a total engine, with all bolt-ons/ancilliaries. First, Get the blsk unplugged,, basic cleaned, then send it off for decent hot tanking, and a sonic test, to see what wall thicknesses you have. Dontworry if all over place, thats due to core shift in the original cadting process. Then you can see how much keat can be removed for some bigger (cheaper) cast pistons.

This fascination with destroying original bodywork, fitting items, to then fit oversize geometry unfriendly size whhels/tyres, is just driving up the value of unmolested cars! That said, what the inspectors and engineers frown upon, ( or even defect) are potential sharp edges, of possible, a little beaten lip, or draw filed edge to single sheet steel on fronts, and on rears, a welded in section or arc, joining the inner to outer sheet steel. The dodgy way is to leave sharp shards and multi cuts bent over, or bits of filler steel Tek screwed on rears. That is Drifter rubbish. Our Z 's are better than that.

This arvo, 2 pm on? Out getting dog and chook food this morning. But first off, come look at it before you decide! I have now replaced it with a giant bigger getdafuqouutahere workbench! We'll leave gate open, shoot up after 2!