dat2kman

Van's gone. Can help you load it and unload in the ute?

He's taking a Z but,,,,,,,

1850 wide, 630 deep, 820 high. On castor wheels, has adjustable shelf under, and storage at rear. All solid timber constr. Wheels have done skids, slight flatspots! ( been sitting in shaed, used as a workbench,,,, but still rolls about) Pick up The Gap. $120

Which one?!!

Peter, You gone all Datsun now! Well done!

Yes, ditch the progressive, their initial softness will def make the shock heat up quickly. If you already have single rate 220's, pop those in, you want supple suspension, not hard. One possibility with those Bilsteins, have a look at turning up a bit of alloy tube of correct OD/ID to slip inside strut, to hold shock in centre. The top gland nut may need some form of washer, in alloy welded to top of the sleeve? Common trick also, race tape some packing washers to bottom of strut insert so that top nut screws down tight. Watch that it does not bottom out! Quadrant in Melbourne are the Billie agents, they can rebuild these. For dirt work you want the wheel to fall as rapidly into a pothole, but on rebound, you want it to come up quickly, but not throw the car upwards violently. I have a set of the big shaft Bilsteins in the race Z, they are very good. Would not use a oil only insert, if buying them.

As above, the 10W is the go. 5 will be too "quick" through the valving and will foem up.. But yes, some decent inserts would be better. KYB are a good all-rpunder, and less costly than Bilsteins.

Need place to stay?

Big difference between slipper leaf non load share, and rocker load share, on a tandem axle trailer. The slipper type, when, say, you get it up over a driveway, at an angle, can lift a wheel, or a whole axle, thus putting maximum loading onto re,aing axle, ie overload, and these can bend/break. The load share ( centre rocker arm pivot ) type, will keep all wheels in contact, this sharing load more evenly.

An advice, When machining in a lathe the spacer tubes, take off a few thou at a time. Did you find this the case? I have done this using a hub and spindle with a set of dry bearings on a work bench, got it spot on, only to discover the hub/bearings/spindle on the car were ever so slightly different. Can only put that down to machining tolerance variations at factory, or, different manufacturer bearings, where the shells are slightly different widths, add all the variations, compared to the test fit unit on the workbench, there were differences. Talking a number of thou, approx6-10.

There's an edition of the Aussie mag, "Sports Car World" that has a lengthy number of pages write up about all the Datsun sportss cars. It was a quarterly issue, july/september 1982 Plenty on the different models, history, and articles on competion cars. And, my race car is shown at the exact moment the engine let go in a big way!

I like to call it "insurance" or " peace of mind" !

Same as Nissan SR20DET It'll sorta help, ideally a full set of custom made caps, and a plate from one side of block to other, dowelled into block edges, and studded mains. Sump then bolts on, or the alloy AZC type sump, ideally dowelled ( dont come prepared for dowels) The blocks can spread/twist, the drag race boys know all about this! Mate runs a fj20 staged at 35 psi, then ramps up to around 50+ psi boost, block is concrete/grout filled, girdle is 1/2" thick plate, tied to sides and mains. Car does 7.1s. 1/4 mile. Has the quicks indeed.

Wiki has the later ones at 1100 kg, and a plus 2 at 1200. Have seen plenty that are ( lightened, 'cos racecar) and they are still close to factory weights! Some like to make all kinds of wild statements, but run a thousand miles when it comes to actually weighing their car! My racer is 1125, a heavy body all steel Group S, it's had stuff out, and a cage put in. Another 260Z has weighed at 980 kg. Cannot work out how, it is a Group S car, looks totally stock, and very original, but 140 kg less!!! It can be done!

Can take some pics of a stub axle, with a crack, on the topside, and another stub, snapped off, just down from the inner bearing. Thats why i then machined up the bearing spacers, but i stepped mine and gave them a biggere surface area on which the stock inner races shoulder up to, compared to MSF's ones. Re flex, se my post above, about the wheel rim lip deflecting the 5mm to then grind itself on the tie rod end. Was kinda WTF, when saw that. SWR has been wedging and plating the struts for 35 years!

I use those on the stubs on the race cars, does take a bit of fiddling to get bearing preload correct. On the Z, have also had welded onto back of stub mount plate to strut tube, a pair of wedges/plates, to more strongly "tie" the strut tube to the front spindle/axle mount plate thingy. Plates are 2mm thick, approx 30mm x 40mm shaped to suit the area, welded well!

Take it to Leda or Accurate, they will corner weight it, with your eqivalent weight in driver seat, do it front/rear and diagonals, to get it right. MP dont like you weighing fronts and backs, as the plate thingy underneath does'nt like it. The two halves do not equal the whole., hence do the halves, plus the whole! Wendafuq i give you dis/mis-informashons?

I run Bridgy RE55's, in size 195/60x14, on one of the quickest, and heavy (1100kg) Z's in the country ( Group S -Historic Prod Sports), and, The re55's last me, so far, five full race meetings, and i tend to drive fairly firmly. They are the tyre of chouce for most that have to run a control semi. No idea how long they'd last on street daily use,,, guess 5000 kilometres? Or Yohie A050's!

BECOS We all know that the weight scales at Morgan Park give out inaccurate readings when you do front half/back half of any car DER! When we do whole car, it is accurate, as it is a single large rectangular metal plate, that needs all four wheels on it for accuracy ( it's pretty good, picks up a 2kg change, ie a Fire ext+helmet!) Just putting a pair of wheels on it, whatever is underneath the plate, that registers the wright, it doesnt like it. It's a Queensland thing, you Southern type folk would not understand,,,,,,,

2 seaters 1280 kg 2+2 are 1350 kg

Thats a rising rate fuel reg, for turbo application. Wont work on Atmo injection. Get yourself something like a Mapladi adjustable, set it up on a rolling road dyno tune, so that it sends fuel back to rear at whatever pressure setting the fuel injection system demands, at high rpm. Compared to a stock FPR, a aftermarket one can give you an extra 10-15 hp at wheels.

Pure speculation and guesstimates. Love it. Morgan Park has weight scales, do it by half, then whole, then other half. Bit more accurate.

Got some alloy full backed AP race calipers on the front of the 120Y and the RX7 Sports Sedan ( did i mention that's for sale!) They all have a fairly strong spring in behind the piston, along with a square section piston seal, that sits in a groove in the caliper. They certainly stop pad knock off!

Not so much the hubs, thats a runout thing, heat or disc warping. The stub axles DO flex relative to strut. Ie, a wide sticky semi tyre will try to "tuck under" when cornering, ie go into a more pisitive camber angle. The wheel can deflect by up to 5 mm relative to the strut. I know! With 5 mm clearance between tie rod end and rim lip, after a teack day, i discover the tierod end has galled alloy attached, and the rim lip has a very slight gouge out of it all way round. Static clearance was 5 mm! But i have now solved that problem!

Ummmm. No. There are far better track type semi's available. These are a good grippy road tyre. And cheap.