JIM71Z

I had this problem a few years ago when I replaced the std Porsche type syncros with brass type [280zx] in my 260Z std C/R gearbox. The problem would occur when I would try to get reverse but be baulked out, so would let out the clutch to spin the box, depress clutch select first to stop the box again and select reverse. If it went into reverse BINGO 2 gears. Selector in neutral, gearbox in first. From memory, I put the 280 selector forks and rods to go with the hubs in the 260Z housing. Where the selector rods go into the front housing on the std 260 rods have flats ground on them to stop hydraulic action. The later 280 rods are round and oil trapped behind them in the early case. So what happens is when you select first gear it draws oil in as the rod pulls back out of the front case and when neutral is selected some oil remains behind the rod and when you select reverse, rod forward, it hydraulics the first gear rod back into gear. The way the selector detents work this can happen. THE FIX linish flats on the ends of the rods so they can't hydraulic. PS if it happens and you need to get going quickly, jack up drivers side of car, remove filler plug and you can pluck it out of first while gear stick is held over 5 reverse. You can do this and still make the race!!! Its a great gearbox now and been raced for 10 years Hope this helps. It drove me nuts for a while. Missed out on 2nd row start at Bathurst because of it. I hope you like my explination James

FREE HORSEPOWER well almost Now i've got your attention. What ever happened to tuning what you have. It is only about 1 in 20 cars that come on the dyno that is tuned correctly. Want cheap horsepower, do all your filters, put in some new plugs/points etc. Check your timing. Get yourself a rocker cover gasket and check tappets and cam timing. The car will now generally go better and be more economical. If your car still isn't running correctly or you can't carry out this work yourself, book it into a dyno tuning shop that has experience with your chosen induction. A full tuneup as listed should come in under $1000, depending on time spent, and will maximize what you have. A bad modification on the other hand can make an engine perform poorly and be untunable. eg my mates race car has a 3' exhaust. Must be good on my std engine. Wrong On the other hand, heat shielding and cold air always work. Have seen 10+hp on 180HP engines Hope this helps James

and also don't worry about the Porkers with there 4 wheel discs The Zeds have L series power. Just blow em off down the straights n hold them up around the back

Gday Guys, Just thought I should poke my nose into the conversation. Having raced GpS for a few years now, I have found by using quality rotors, Brembo, and Pagid RS4 for sprint races 30km and Pagid RS29 for our 100km race have worked ok. However, if I just pull into the pits after a race the rotors will warp. I must stop the car on the clutch so not to clamp the pads to the rotor, and jack up the car and keep turning wheels until they cool down to a point where they won't warp. You also need to make sure your rear brakes are adjusted up for every race. Less load on front brakes = less heat. I will also bleed the brakes once or twice over a weekend or as required. Up until now I have been using Castrol SRF but am trying a new combo at the moment. If you don't warp a rotor you will get up to 4 meetings out of a set of pads and rotors. The rear shoes will only last 2 meetings but at $30 who cares, as long as you don't trash your drums. I have tried trick drum linings but don't work. Unfortunately after 4 race meetings the rotors are no good any more as they will be bent not necessarily warped. The friction faces will look great but if you put a straight edge across the back you will notice the outer edges of the rotor will be bent inwards. this is caused by the "ring" of extreme heat and the much cooler hub area. If you machine them you would loose about 1.5mm off thickness but am more worried about shattering one in use as they try to bend again. If you fit new pads they will need to bed in to a taper to conform and create loads of pad knockoff. Also If you race in the rain and go through a puddle you will warp a rotor. Over the years I have had many success and failures and still I have to keep developing the car. My current problem is I am on my last set of Brembo rotors and they are no longer available worldwide. I have been in contact with RDA who told me there product was not suitable for racing. Where to now? Chinese rotors??? also drums haven't been made for years. Chinese drums are hopeless and dangerous. My car hits 220 down the straight at Eastern Creek and is a big stop into turn 2. Will they work lap after lap? I like the concept of the GpS rules, and don't like watering them down, but our cars have come a long way since the rules were written. While running std SUs it made us make them work instead of just bolting on some Webers Mikunis etc. With the brakes its the same theory, but when suitable safe parts aren't available??? I would like to see a vented rotor off a Peugeot or similar allowed with a spacer of about 8mm or so in the caliper but getting this through CAMS might not be so easy. I think it would be safety issue if we were to run sub standard parts. Where do we go from here? James

Gday Rev, Still got spoiler hanging in garage as discussed. Hasn't fallen through, you just need to stay in contact. Ring me and we can organize something. James

Gday Rev, I have got a very similar spoiler. It has been painted orange but never fitted to a car. PM me with your mobile number and i'll send you some pics. James

A mate of mine has an original1972 Dato 1200 Coupe that he is thinking about selling. It has its original engine with 4 speed box with disc front end. It presents as very neat and tidy with no rust and very clean interior. Has white paint. He also has a worked 1500 engine and Sunny box as well as assorted parts. Chris can be contacted on 0407 06two 67eight and is looking for $8000 for the lot. This is a nice little car and first to see will buy it. I will post some pics shortly or give Chris a call and he will email you some. The car is on historic rego [not transferable] but it would pass any inspection and is located Forestville, Northern Sydney. James

Gday Guys still have an empty trailer from Briz to Syd. Any takers? James

Gday Guys unfortunately the transport of the Chook Cooker has fallen through and was wondering if anyone else needs a tow to Sydney Thanks James

Yeah that would be great. Thanks Jas. I'll call you later. James

Gday Guys, In the next week {weekend 13-14/9} or so I will be coming back from Brisbane with an empty trailer. Any one need a tow? Chuck me a few bucks for petrol and maybe a beer and it's a done deal. Car can only be a 240 or 260Z coupe as trailer is custom built to suit. James

Gday Matty, I had my 240Z loom reconditioned by Classic Wiring Looms about 10 years ago. They are in Vic and did a fantastic job on my loom. All wires are checked, terminals soldered, had relays fitted for starter and headlights and immobiliser fitted. I also had a tach relay fitted for fuel pump [safety]. The loom was completely rebound. The loom was plug and play and has never given any trouble. The cost was very reasonable considering the work involved and its not very hard to R and R the loom yourself. This my be an option to a new loom. James

No probs Adam. When the flag drops The bullsh1t stops.

Now I'm just talking Sh1t like the rest of you #6

Life's tough at the top ay Jas #5