dat2kman

Above is not Datsun strut, but shows the thick tapered inside/outside sleeve, that slides over stub, it has to be placed inside the hub before you slide it all on, and then fit smaller outer bearing and do up nut. To the right, ( imagine a Z strut) the vertical bit of forging, that caliper bolts to, in a Z, is higher than this pic, You get two bits of trapezoidal shaped 4mm plate, and fit between vertical plate and strut tube. Weld all around. This mod stops the stub mounting from flexing AWAY from strut when cornering, and using 9" wide stocky rubber. The stub wants to tuck under, ie go into positive camber, due to weight transfer and forces exerted. The dirt rally boys did the plates thing to stop stubs from gending upwards ( extreme negative camber) on hard landings on jumps. Reverse for circuit.

Bearing sleeve.

If you are good with front camber settings, get a couple of steel wedges welded onto each strut leg at base to support the stub flange/brake caliper mount ears. Peter Davis Suspension ( rally mob) down there know how to do it, properly. Fully dissasemble and supply them bare struts. Next thing, machine up a stub afle bearing support tube, ( sleeve) very fiddly as you end up taking 2 thou off at a time for final fit and bearing preload. It fits between the inner races of the wheel bearings and acts as a additional support to the stub axle. Have you thrown a dial indicator onto the discs to check runout? An oncar disc skim can do wonders, just disconnect rear driveshaft at outer companion flange to do rears. Booster fitted? The tiny amounts of "play" can add to extra pedal movement. Consider no booster?

Go for a drive out to Paul Wolfes place out past ipswich, he has plenty out there. A wrecker in Lbb st Ipswich had four zx's stacked in his yard. Was at Kelly's in Carseldine, and ABC in Oxley a few weeks back, forget them, nothing.

Look at Joe Gibbs, LAT Brad Penn All have high Zinc, way way more higher than the so called commnly available "high zinc" oils in the shops. I use Joe Gibbs xp3/xp6 in ,y engines, extend oil changes, by factor of four, oil ressures and temperature are a little more stable, and on engine tear downs, nowhere near the amount of wipe on bearing shells, compared to your "super dooper modern" stuff.

For a few days, every month, my two daughter ( no-pics,,,, sorry wrong forum,,) make certain reference to "Vag" Not pretty, and not considered quite dinner table chit-chat, but hey, were living in the Tenties now. You pound them do you, young fella?

Not wishing to sprinkle unicorn weewee as rain, on this parade, But how many owners of a car, or buyers, are there out there, That are prepared to stump up the $50,000-$60,000, maybe even more that it will cost for this service? Recently two cars have sold at around $50k, their owners have mostly carefully added up their build bills, and were in the $70-90,000 area. We flinch at 432Z pricing, or KPCG10 pricing, but there are, just a few, that will pay for these cars, done properly. A fully setup proper decent resto shop,,, how many cars per month does it need to turnover in order to sustain its business mdel? Wages, verheads, cost f goods, government red te. Why arent people flcking to the doors of Les Collins, or Stew Wilkins? Money, or the short arm, deep picket syndrome. A Sydney workshop has to fork out $60,000 in advance to get 10 close ratio dogbox internals made, at a time, minimum order. 9 get sold o/seas, one got so D here, in four years, but that $60k cost f goods had to come from somewhere, and money costs money!

That's Bullzeds white 280ZX, pretty sure! Mad wheels, and minimal guard work!

So was the old man! He's no doubt heard of a couple of recent sales of very very nicely presented Z's that have sold for over the $k mark, but these were almost perfect, and with backing evidence to show it. Any so called "rebuilt hogh HP engine" etc from there would need to be verified, and that could get pricey to do so, and if found out to be bullsh1t after you bought it??? Well, any Usedie ( short for Used Car Dealer) will plead ignoramce etc etc, and leave you sucking the saveloy.

Peter T, great to finally catch up! Was a good day, plenty assortment of cars, Brad, a few 1600's but so many other models from other manufacturers. David, you moving up to the logbooked 2B racing scene!

Eoji's 88's at 29 pin height with 133 mm rods on a 79 stroke crank will be under 2900 Longer stroke will push them out of the deck x stroke increase. A shorter rod ie 130 and crank welded and reground x3mm will get it upp into the 2900's Have you had the block sonic tested to see what bore wall thicknesses are like?

What chamber volume are you after? A welded chamber and then milled and then finished and cc'd is upwards of $1500-$2000

Have a look at Isuzu G200 engine pistons, shorter pin height, and you can finish the tops off how you want. Flats, flats/flycut, slight rise with flycuts or shaped lumpy. They come in 87.5 But are not high end forgies.......

You're in Melbourne, go straight to Clive Cams. A nice streetable 72 degree regrind on a stocko cam, or a little bit more aggressive, a 74 degree on a blank, to get the lobe centres right. Clive bought out Wade's, he knows his stuff.

Yes, but that would look baller out the exhaust,,,,

For turbo application you dont want big durations. Maybe have the intake open and close a little later. Have a read of the Racer Brown guide to camshafts, he covered boosted applications.

Both are at original height, valves fitted, camshaft that belongs with each are fitted. ( so that seats are protected and valves arent left open only to get bent!) We all onow the specs and the superior flow characteristics of the P90. The O5L has tje same shed ports as the P90, but slightly smaller ( high velocity atomisation benefit) The combustion chambers CC at 37 This head on a 2.8 or larher will give very high compression figures at 37cc as it is. To increase flow, the ports need opening up, fit larger valves, unshrouding work etc, would increase the cc of the chamber by 2-3 cc's. See pictures and other info in the Engine section, Cylinder heads guide. $600 ea.

Recently, wasn't there adverse comments about sellers asking buyers to leave a "viewing" deposit? If not on here it came up on another forum? Tell them to bring their driver licence, no licence, no drive, and no passenger ride. If they get narky about showing ID, just xplain, you know where I am, I wanna know where you are from, only fair! If they bject, tell them, sorry, i'll wait for next genuine.

You do not count the top and bottom full first coils, as these are in contact with the upper/lower spring perches. You need to acurately, with vernier calipers measure the diameter of the wire, in inch, ie 0.222" ( example) Then outer diam of coil stack, the K number, as above, is the "Constant" number for steel ( physics terminology stuff) Entering the info into said formula, will give you Pounds per inch. Using metric gives you kg/cm, which the majority of suspension people do not use, as it is too wide ranging I have the rate formula written down and can calculate it out, just need the info.

Nissan had all manner of casting markings on things, only way to tell is to pull it off an compare pirt sozing. Being a pressurised system it's no great concern, just up the boost a few pounds! In Japan the Govmint had thos thing about engines bigger than 2 litre hence the Fairlady X, or whatever its supposed to ge called and other sedan type cars ran a 2 litre, with turbo. With such small bores and short strokes, they got away with a shallw dish piston and fairly effcient but lw cc chamber size heads. You take one f those 2 litre heads and stick it on a flat top piston 2.8-3.0 litre bottom end, and you have over 12:1 compression! But on a 2.0, its more like 9:1 and low boost, hence the manifolds didnt need to be huge. There was an old thread on here from a young fellow here in Qld that did the L20ET swap onto an atmo L28, he could not understand why it didn't work so great, then he stuck a dico potato on it, and it all turned to crap, he's gone, car got re-engined back to normal, and sold off. Exercise cost him about $10,000,,,,

R30 Skyline? As marked on ECU? My guess is the intake mani and exhaust mani was taken off a R30 that uses the smaller L20A engine, and bolted onto a P90/F54 280 ZX atmo engine. Those manis are small ports. It'll work fine. The giveaway will be if it has the correct L28Turbo distributor. The L28 Turbo ECU runs twin PCB's inside it I have one here, ex USA To get it all to work really well,, consider an aftermarket ECU, and a bigger TB, a better quality TPS, and run MAP sensor, not the restrictive AFM.

That's for the S? Check the drawings/specs, there were some that were "too tall" a while back. As if that is gonna change anything,,,,,

So,,, on NOS and , what, 11 sec 1/4's? Motor may have had a bit of a hard life. Still be around the $2k figure, if it's correct L28T bolt-ons, not some cobbled up thing sing L20A-T manifolds.

Only the early 240Z/Dato Sports 2000's and the 260Z box that had the 2.9 first gear had 0.864 fifth gear.

Yep agree! Just getting to Qld is $$$ enough, but then you got accomodation for 3-4 nights, and then, to get maximum track, show, dinner, merchandise etc time, another 7-800 on top!