dat2kman

I think you'll find that the Joe Gibbs, Brad Penn and LAT oils are the highest zinc content. Commercially available in Australia, and come in a range of viscositys, or single weights, and in both pure mineral ( Pennsylvania State) as well as compunded Synthetics. As for what to run, it depends on clearances and tolerances, and what type f kechanicals are within in engine. Eg, a multi valve cam on bucket, or cam n follower with very tight tolerances, desigined for high rpm, ie Toyota 20 V 4AGE would use a 0-20 weight range. An older cam on rocker, or cam to hydraulic lifter, large soze two valve head, bigger bore, looser clearances, ie a Ford/GM V8, or a Nissan L series 20-60 weight range. Its quite possible to run a single weight viscosity oil, f you know what your ambient conditions are, and bring an engine to operating temps before use. Heavy oils are sluggish and reduce an engines ability to perform well compared to much lighter weight oil. It's never been rocket science.

Very easy to open up strut top, and remove half the rubber, trim metal back, slit the ketal cup, and fold it over so that it still retains the strut. Very common tip woth race cars that retain stockish suspension. Tha'll give you 3/4 to 1" Then remove half a coil off your stock spring at each end, heat and reshape, and wire top and bottom of spring to perches. Rough, cheap and effective.

The 432Z that arrived here mid 2014, has now been road registered. Cant upload pics,,, as file size is too big,,,, again,,,, on ipad, cant reduce, on computer, dont know how,, cbf'd trying, drives me nuts.

ZX's were produced from 1978-9, that box mod didn't turn up till 81-82. Could be a ZX box! They had slightly different input drive/driven ratios sets, which then alters the gear ratios within. Some were a 3.32 first, others were 3.59 first,

went for $4500, and off to Melbourne, going by comments eslewhere about cheap Z prices!

Your RB20DET box will come with a 0.758 fifth gear. Get a hold of an ex drifter blown S13 or S14 SRDET box, and steal the 0.832 fifth gearet out of it, fit it to your RB20DET box. Earlier 0.86 fifth gearsets will not fit, and are rather skinny (16mm) You can get 0.89 fifths, but these are aftermarket and are around &1000

It's not so much as a "lckout" more a heavier detent spring and piston in a seperate bolt in cup with a small lever. Have seen them on various 5 speed trans, from early 1980's on.

Mechanically much cheaper, in Japan, than having to manage with Mercedes Benz mechanicals. Rims are Falcon 5 stud.

$45k for mine. Is somewhat enhanced,,,,

What is the body length, verall length, and fully compressed length on the Kons? Diameter? Total free height of springs, wire diameter, and no f coils? ( Kings site prob has the poundage rating?) These measure,ents, when compared to later 260Z equivalent kay not be all that different? Kings do list two spring types in various Std and Low config, for 240 and 260.

What is it here? These are at a fairly good price, and perfect for anyone wanting straight old fashioned simple drop in and go stuff! What, are complicated coil over adaptations all the hotness? Once you have set your coil over to height, you never play with it again! Can vouch for Koni reds, never wear out, if you damage, fully rebuildable, and even on softest rebound setting is still way better than most of the crud shockers out there!

Crawling under the car, and just peering at the factory diff mount does not work. You need to remove it and use a screwdriver, trying to prise it apart, to see it it is torn. The "rubber band" over the top is simply there to stop the nose of the diff trying to join you insde the cabin, when you apply torque through driveline. If you discover it is torn, dont throw it away, but, if you are able and willing, post it to ke, as I can get them re-rubbered. I need min qty f ten items at a time to get this done. Engine mounts, Transmission mounts, Diff mounts, all done in a harder compound rubber, same as Nismo Competition specification items.

Your pedal adjuster rod was incorrectly adjusted, not allowing full piston retraction.

They want a tyre that looks like it has vague groovy things, a few of, rather than something that has one very thin faint shallow single circumferential groove. Would you run Targa Tad or Classoc Adelaide in them?

Yeah, nah, i'm after bit that clamps to little round spinning bit, that goes up to firewall! Its around 500mm long, and some 12mm diam. Fellow racer bloke out Bayside has contacted me, am visiting tomorrow!

Oki-doki, Looks like this is definately on! It's the last weekend in August at QR on the Clubman layout. To any interested in running in this. And even f you didnt run the last one, I encourage you to give it a go! Cars are to be rollcaged, and follow the principle pf Production Sports Car, with the addition f usual safety features as is required for Sprints meetings. No Slck tyres, only treaded type tyres, ideal type cars are pre 1976 Classic Sports cars. ( that leaves it fairly broad!) Qld Raceways does have a HANS polcy, requiring you to wear one. Unsure of final entry cost, but for two days of racing racing. Expect around $300 The group organiser is Stan Adler,,, phone 0414 911 901 He requires a phone call ASAP to show interest, and put you on his mailout list, and will be adking for a $100 deposit front, as the HRCC have to make a financial commitment and pay Qld Raceway, as is usual! Any questions about this event, ask away down below. Lets keep the big dick swinging contests elsewhere, lest we get bogged down in mire of times, modifications and who has bigger cohunas etc. Lets get some of you racing! If you have mates with cars that may not be on this site ( ask them,,,,) then let them know aboutit. If Stan Adler does not answer straight away, he 's prob on way back from Phillip Island.

Can bring tools to remove , require the shaft that goes between rack and column. Any model Z Or other Datsun that has rack/ pinion steering. Tried Paul at Zbits but he is away/not answering

Tried Paul at Ippy, no answer, he's prob away doing scientific herpetology work, out in the bush. Looking for any of the various versions ( 3 off them?) from any Z, rather Brosbane local, as ot's a bot pf a hassle to arrange chauffer's time

Fill both up, run it till hot, the reserve tank will overflow, due to expansion, to a point, then stop, then it should be right from then on, at that level. On cooling down, it will suck the reserve to about 1/3-1/2 level from bottom. If you are running straight water, throw in some cooling system cleaner/flusher, run it, till good and hot, let it cool right ff, drain it at plastic T screw at bottom f radiator, then refill with plain water ( tank rainwater is better) run, get hot, cool, drain out,,, again,,then Use 1 bottle f either Redline Water Wetter, or Penrite SIN Coolant, mx as per instructions, ( i use whole bottle) but dont overfill reserve tank. The SIN/Redline is a better conductor of heat from ketal to Water, as an additive, than the usual ethylene glycols, i see a 10 degree drop in water temp, using after,arket guage in the race 2000, with stock radiator. You jeed to do the flush/clean bizo to get as mch ethylene glycol out, it acts as a barrier to efficient heat transfer. Tank/rainwater has less minerals in it, knder to the various metals! Do you have the under deflector fitted, to scoop air up at bottom f radiator? If nt I have a spare you can se as a copy to get one made.

Umm ( not necessarily same make/model,,,)

Noticed Don McKays 240 Z, yes, supposed to be a 2.4,,, is going rather well Jeff Thomas in his 260 is doing well. Rest f Z brigade running in Regularity. If someone was keen to mve up, my 280Z would have you in top 10, and top 3 outright, in wet, in Group S

Thanks David. I am going to be shortening it to reqd length and resplineing it, can cut and shut mine to another for ni, or if his is good splines, will cut/shut that. My spline end is twisted apprpx 45 degrees and bent approx 20 deg, due to hitting a dirt embankment. F it gets finished/put back together in time, hopefully, it'll be going up to DatNats,,,

Thanks Peter. Turns out what I have is a Z shaft that has been cut down to 385mm o/all length and replined, with a milled flat for the bolt. I can se eother version pf the shafts. Anyone wrcking/parting out, r have bits of steering from Z Hit ke up. Brisbane for lcal pickup, can bring tools to remove.

Good bit of kit! Bons is the in-out adjuster, like a tie rod, you dont have to drop the Heim joint by pulling pin out f crossmember, to adjust.

The thing on the right, item 33.