dat2kman

Well, looking at all the "well done " and "wow early girl" type posts, why do you all find it surprising , he happened to be in right place at right time, and jumped on it quick smart, rather than dick around asking all kinds f questions and nit picking the nth degree. Just 'cos he's asking 30k, doesnt mean he wont listen to lower offers, more than likely he's looking to flick it quickly. Good on him. ( wonder if he's an ex used car flogger??)

They're a bit old, circa 1074-5, written to stop the very free and open rules that had evolved between 1970 to 1973. Very interesting to see, now, how they have chamged, to again, be much more "free and eady" yet once again! At least in Historics, their rules and requirements for Production Spirts are consistent and unchanging, and with some 170 Group S cars Logbooked, there are always high numbers f cars at events. A Group S Historic is similar to current specs for Group 2F Prod Sports.

So, What engine? I have a nice little compact turbo package here, bit of engine mount md, and she'd drop in. Minor bolt-ons, and it'd go well. Best of all, it'd be a "md mount"

About time this thing saw daylight again! Makes we wanna go buy me a Pine Lime Splice Ice Cream,,,,, Love the references to our Unzud mate,,,,

Gonna play Devil's Advocate here, but, as a young fella, at 16, we 'd all like to see you get your license, and get a few driving miles out on the roads under your belt. No amount of fanging around your 'rents ACT property will be enough! Once you've had a year or two of driving in your stocko Datsun, ( convert it to a manual!) enrol in a couple of defensive driving courses, hopefully those will onock out your bad driving habits, and give you a bit of insight into a bit f track work. Then maybe do a few trackdays, Wakefield at Goulburn s pretty close to you. Then make you car go crazy fasts!

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,13716.0.html Thread in Australia wide General Discussion topic?

What's the ACT ruling on Learner or Probationary licensed drivers in turbo fitted vehicles?

What did these cost from the supplier?

Leave them on it! Seem to be working fine, a bit of a adjust here and there has helped! As per your other thread, better to be looking at your dizzy for your issues.

Brad ! Congrats to you both! I'm after the offset and 14" of the 240z steely rims, to clear calipers and upper/lower wishbones, the 13's wont, have tried,,,

After steel only Z rims, condition unimportant, dont care if rubber fitted or not. Reqd for fitting to chassis/bodies to get rolling. When finished, will end up as hose reels or garden sculptures,, briabane pick ups only !!

A great number of Mechanics Shops these days, just do not see many older cars, inc L series engines. They will make generalised stabs in the dark, and hopefully, will get it right. It will sound cheeky, but ring them, and ask, do they work on a lot of older L series Nissan engines! There are places around Penrith surrounds, that know these well, inc Stew Wilkins. In McGraths Hill.

How mch money do you have now? And, How much money are you prepared to spend over the next few years? Usually it works out about, A, $5000 to $10,00 B, $15,000 to $25,000 - Depending on lots of things!

You may need to look at picking up a open R200 out of a 260Z, they should be 3.7. And grabbing a r200 from a dr30 skyline, they have the LSD centre, but are 4.385, and swap the centres. Prob be quicker going that route rather than waiting till a unicorn 3.7 lsd complete turns up.

These a Hard Cut, r a two stage Soft then Hard?

Certain versions of dcoe were fitted as std equip on some cars, ie Alfa's mainly. Yes, there are internal differences, mainly the progression passages that supply air up to the throttle plates, some have two, some have three ports, and, the ports that feed air into the well that the emulsion tube assy sits in. NFI why they did it! Only suggestion would be get onto some of the Italian specialists here in Brisb, Richard Anderson s an Alfa nut, Jim will have his number, Or try FiatTorque -Ross&Graham Smith, in Sydney, or Bits Of Italy, bloke there is Phillip?? Bugee You'll need both body and top, take pics of your other matched two, of them with top cover on, and top cover removed. Why you have the odd one?? 'Cos when the bloke who put them on originally, he grabbed a pair off one model car, and a random close one, off another car!

Tandem masters are designed with ports that link each res down into the piston assy. As you press pedal, ports get blocked off, and then the further movement of the pedal pressurises the brake lines. It may be, that initial pedal press that is allowing some fluid from one, to get past seals, and go up into other res. This could happen if the pushrod is set back too far,, ie your in-cabin pushrod adjustment is too far back. Other possibility is the internal seals between the front piston area and rear piston area are not doing what they should be. This is more likely. And there could be slight scoring on walls. Might be able to buy a M/C full seal/piston rubber kit, for it, if no scoring. Otherwise stainless sleeve it, or r&r.

The ballast resistor is used only on the "start engine" circuit, once engine is running it is not in use. A dry joint or a loose connection with a bit of gunk, that can cause higher resistance can also be a cause, but that would show up right through the range.

It's a points dizzy? Check static timing at whatever idle is, mark the base to the front cover, then remove dizzy. Pull the points plate off and check condition of the bob weights and the springs, under the dizzy points plate. It could be an issue in under there. When re-installing, put a new set of points in, f the contacts on the existing look a bit pitted. Sometimes the bob weights stick on their pivots, or a spring has fallen off. A dizzy is "re-curved" on a distributor graphing machine by simply bending the tangs holding the weight springs. The correct way is to fit a different tension rate spring, these were a Nissan Competition Part, but are NLA. Dont bend or alter anything, unless you know what you are doing. If this ends up not solving the higher rpm intermittent miss issue, next step, fit a new coil.

With that bg lazy revving V8, what ratio you reckon you might want?

Booteek Artesian, Spunds like a fancy chicks dress shop, and an underground outback drinking well!!! Alexander, the box will weigh apprpx 44 kg, flywheel apprpx 14 kg, tailshaft apprpx 10 kg, ask if sender can atleast put the lot onto a small skd/mini pallet, if not, you may have to do it as individual items. ( i take the bloke out at Walloon didnt have anything avail atm?)

If you dont get any takers, try a courier mb called E-Go. They ffer a Door to Depot service, you then just pick it up from a local Brisbane depot. They are cheap, and can be unreliable in pick up times. Be about same price a a slab of hipster upmarket p1ss, ie not VB!

Guage faulty ( resistance issue) Borrow a laser/infrared type thermal heat gun, check thermostat housing, top of radiator, bottom of radiator, and bottom inlet into engine. If not alarmingly high, maybe guage? When was radiator rodded out last? ( not just "flushed" but top and bottom tanks sweated off, and tubes brushed/rodded out. Years of gunk, silicon, rust chunks, gasket bits, etc, all contribute to the thin tubes getting blocked.

Have a pair of rear lower arms, not bent. And strut tops, rubber in vgc. Location Brisb West.

Very viable. Use CDC thick walls, to a bottom step ( to stop sleeve being dragged down into bottom end) The higher Specific Graphite content of the CDC sleeves means pistons run with less friction = more HP! Did a 4 cyl a while back, no other changes, all items like for like, it gets run in on a engine dyno, It picked up 9hp just from sleeves. To OP, fit new ARP rod bolts to the stock 240Z rods (133mm long) have a look at/for Isuzu G200 ?, pistons these you then knock top off to get deck height you want. Otherwise stock cast Datsun flat tops will be fine, but will finish at just under deck. E30 off a 240k, ported and valved should be the tits,,,