NZeder

Back on topic good idea - enough of the creping mould stuff Have you thought about contacting the guys at Alfa Fibreglass in VIC - they seem to have a few zed moulds/products for sale so they would be the best to give you an idea on the costs etc see http://www.motorsportfibreglass.com.au/index.php

Well it cost me (if I recall) about $120 for the work to fit including the spacers. I supplied the diff, obx centre and new bearings/seals

I concur it is mould not mold in this part of the world. Mould(1) and Mould(2) is how we spell it for the two meanings. Mould(1) = to make a shape from a substance and Mould(2) = green/growth etc And I back this up with the Oxford English Dictionary I have here in print at home and also online with the Cambridge Dictionary see http://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/british/mould_2

I got mine from ebay years ago, as getting the backlash setup is something I did not want to do I took the centre and my open 4.11 do a diff specialist. I did this after I took the diff centre apart (that is when I took those pics I posted on hybridz) I replaced the bevelle washes in the centre, replaced the bolts and installed the snap-rings for the axles. Re-assembled and as stated had the diff guy install with my new bearings I also purchase. The diff guy made up the spacer for the installation. If/when I sell the obx it will be just the centre or I might setup in a 3.9 and sell locally here in NZ as the shipping of a complete long nose R200 would not be cheap.

lol the pic of the "Right" setup is my OBX centre. I can't tell you how it goes as it is still sitting on the floor of my garage. Shows how long my project has been going I was one of the first guys on Hybridz to take the plunge and get an OBX centre - had it installed in my 4.11 and it has sat waiting for me to put the car together. And now I might use one of my Baltec centres anyway

Hope all is well - so how is the project going?

so how is the steering geo/ackerman, camber, caster vs the stock setup??

I think he means from the firewall forward it was a different car. Here have been a few zed like that here in NZ many race cars that hit a wall big time. So I have seen a 2+2 chassis number on a 2 seater ie front 1/2 260z 2+2 rear half 240 made door mounting interesting with 260z front hinges different to the 240z door

Re the question on triple su's on the L6 engines. Well people have tried but it will not work very well due to the firing order. The triple su setup you see on some inline 6 engine usually are odd fire engines. There was a threat about the hybridz, CZCC or here a few years back (can't remember which forum)

There are differences between the years of the 260z = different seat mounts. So might be best to post a pic of the floor so we know what you are looking for ie early 260z, late 260z of something in between (I say something in between as I have seen what was meant to be a later type shell ie taller strut towers, 2 seater I am talking about, but had the earlier seat mounts)

"Fender well is fall'n out of the fender bud" - no wonder the USA say the 260z/280z got heavy with all that crap in the guards lol - I have never seen that on a zed before - yes I have heard of the inner fender/guard shields but never seen them before.

All the 3.54 I have found here in NZ are from Z31 Auto (I can't recall if the 3.0 or the JDM 2.0 V6 version)

My 76 260z had fender mirrors and it is a general RHD export model (different spec to Australian spec 260z of the day, and different to the Euro spec aka UK cars, these are the spec cars that were shipped and sold in NZ). My 260z was not an NZ new car - imported in 78 from one of the Pacific Island. Other countries that did get fender mirrors were places like Singapore, other Asia cointries too.

My bad you only need to relieve the block if using a LD28 crank as the extra stroke means very very close. However have them check that out either way to be safe

Cool Spool. can't go wrong there either, don't forget you might have to relieve the block a little on one side for ARP/H-Beam clearance.

Email - these guys - will cost less than $1200 for sure - you might get to sets for that price (almost) http://www.maxspeedingrods.com/parts/rods%20items/datsun/Datsun%20L16%20L24%20Conrods%20Rods%20Bielle%20Pleuel.htm Cheers Mike

only if you want split bores I am talking NA only here. Boosted is best limited to 2mm over bore only aka 88mm - never never go more than 88 on a boosted application unless you want to keep rebuilding bottom ends See the key there - NEW - if using NEW OEM Rod then that is perfect too but you still have to prep etc - but then you still want to check/balance any rod you install.

The pic of the different cross member is for a 240z early shell with the mounts on the body as shown but not the manual that is the auto cross member

If the block is up to a 4mm overbore (I have build an engine like this in the past) with a L28 crank then that is 3015cc. 90mm bore with 79mm stroke. If you sleeve the block you could go as far as 91mm but then if you are doing that you might as well start with a LD28 block and sleeve that out from 84mm to 90/91mm and run the LD28 crank. Then you a taller block so long rods are not an issue and a good rod/stroke ratio can be had to get the piston dwel you want for a large cam etc. We are now starting to talk about a big investment in an engine if you are going to build a long stroke/long rod LD28 blocked NA engine. Never seen it done but it has been done in USA that I know of. You will need to use a L20B front cover to match the NA L28 (highly modified for big power/flow for the 3200cc monster you will be building ) for the LD28 block and you will need custom head bolts as the diesel head is held on with larger bolts (so the L28 head will need the head bolt holes enlarged) But as stated if $$ are limited for the build I would recommend new rods and skip the fancy tensioner just add that later Depending on the rod required spool do L28 spec H-beam rods with ARP bolts. Or Maxspeeding Rods so L24 H-Beams with ARP bolts. If you are using a L28 block and L24 H-beam rods you will need to relieve the block a little for correct clearances. My 2cents if that counts

I would get some aftermarket rods for the following reasons 1. Cost to prep stock rods = more than 1/2 the cost of new lighter rods already with ARP bolts 2. As the new rods are lighter the engine will spin faster and now have a more lively/rev'y feel. 3. They will be new and not a 30year old rod with some work. 4. Did I state the will be new and not a worked 30year old part.

cool that is what I was thinking of one of the valves in the vent line.

Excellent can't wait but then I have too

Love the your work - nice to have access to swaggers

what are you guys using to burp your tanks when converting to EFI without a carbon canister? And to reduce the pressure build up in the tank?

not likely in Oz they only have about 1/2 a dozen 280zx 2 seater in the whole country Nissan did not import them. You are in the correct location for those parts aka USA - downunder many get parts from the USA for our zeds.