NZeder

with slicks I think you will find the lighter springs will work better - well that is what I have seen on track cars here in NZ

All N42/N42 and F54/N42 combo's I have see have dished pistons. This so the engines have 8.8 CR and run on low RON Unleaded Petrol

Nice and early high Nickel N42 to boot

Hi Peter, So what spring rates are you going to run with your AZC coilover setup?? Those red items look the ones Dave sends with the kit = 250lb? or did you order with more lb/in? Cheers Mike

Nothing is a bolt up mod when you talking about 240z/260z steering rack replacement. I believe the MX5 units are closer to a bolt up but you still need some cut/welding then the MX5 rack is wider and requires work too. The subie is a better fit from my understanding from a rack length stand point but you still need to cut/weld the stock cross member so that is far from a bolt up.

I knew you would say that - should not have asked lol anyway the good news on the bell crank is the top and bottom nylon bush is the same part and it never changed from the 240z to 260z (including the early 240z ) the part number is 18124-73000 Now for some more good news on that part number - it was also used on the following models Datsun 510 (1600) Datsun 610 (180B) Datsun 710 (160J) Datsun HS30/RS30 (our beloved Zeds ) Datsun/Nissan S130 (280ZX) And I am sure a few others too - so with the part used on so many models there must be a source even if Nissan don't list/have replacements I have not looked into the other parts of the linkages.......but if you want a list of the part number let me know then you can at least ask Nissan if any are available. Cheers Mike

how is the bell crank on the firewall? those bushes can get warn too. Do you want it to be the same as original or is a cable conversion ok?

Excellent build - looks like I need to fly over of a visit and check out some of the zed and maybe bring another 3.9 R200 for you guys over there

They are very nice units, are smaller in diameter than the dinner plate BMW units, and it is good there is now L6 versions - 15 years ago those of us in NZ that were looking for improvements the BMW was the best solution at the time. I like the ATI Super balancer

This setup is common on L6 race engines here in NZ. The balancer should still be good it just that the adaptor that bolts to it (the custom bit) might have it keyway damaged. I am sure a good engineering company can remake you the adaptor to match a good crank - they have a sample to work with - the one on the car in the pic

That looks just like what Adam is talking about. Those headers are usually seen on high power output L6 build in Japan - funny I have really looked that close at them (price always made me look away quickly) but they are 153,624 just was Adam is looking at getting custom made to suit his setup - perfect. Like others can't wait to hear the car once complete - might even have to use up airpoints and come for a visit

Check Adam's reply (reply number #329) in this thread the answer you seek is there - or here is the quote

Not any more Dad sold his S31 aka Fairlady Z (standard model with non clock even - just the rare blank cover in the clock hole) Welcome to the Forum. In a way we all have Fairlady Z just different spec and market versions I guess for you state side it is something special with the wheel on the correct side lol

Never seen 41 exhaust used before. The stock L28 intake at 44 is large enough for most performance applications. I would start with a N42 for the following reasons. 1. Already has 44mm intake valve. The stock nissan valve are well made. 2. They are form a later car = newer head = less likely to have been over heated/lower number of heat cycles = not as soft. Find someone who know how to get good numbers from the L6 head and invest in their time to work on your selected head (you might need a few so the can select the hardest one to start with). If you an old soft one put it in the bandsaw so you can cut it up and learn more about the ports/water jackets locations etc. Good number can come from 37mm exhaust valve (ie purchase 38 and turn down). My old 240z had 250rwph with stock intake valves 36mm exhausts.

Standard L28 aka N42/P90 intakes are 44mm and exhaust are 35mm I think you will find. Standard E88 are 42mm inlet and 33mm exhaust for the L24 E88 (L26 E88 - well there are 2 versions that I know of - one of the L26 E88 has the 35mm exhausts but the intake is the same as 42mm) then there is the E88 from the L24E ie EFI E88 used on the 80's skylines in Oz.

The only issue with those is they alter the roll centre - which in turn moves the bump - it does not remove bump it just places it at different location so you don't notice it anymore (ie back where the factory had it but now at a different roll centre) So these bump steer spacer should never be called that but roll centre adjusters as that is what they actually do is alter the roll centre and a side effect is moving the bump - it does not remove bump. The issue is now you have moved the front roll centre but left the rear in the factory spot - so this might cause other issues. But would this difference in front and rear roll centre be noticed on a road car anyway ??

Last time my 260z was on the road (13 years ago) Section struts and Koni yellow's with unknown springs Front 225lb/in Rear 210lb/in with adjustable TC rods and LCA was great fun. This time (when I finish putting it together that is) Coil Overs from AZC with threaded shock setup (had shocks dyno'd good for upto 650lb/in) Front 6kg/mm (336lb/in) from Ben of Otomoto Rear 5kg/mm (280lb/in) from Ben of Otomoto However most track Zed here in NZ are running Front 550lb/in - 650lb/in (depending on track/car setup) Rear 350lb/in - 450lb/in Kings are common or Eibach here in NZ Mine is soft as dual purpose - and no full cage linking to front strut towers etc.

If you want better turn-in then "Caster Makes you Faster" you want adjust both camber and caster with the correct toe and a zed will turn in great However more caster, camber = heavier on the wheel but that is the price you must pay for better turn-in.

better way than doing it this way (crash just outside of Auckland NZ, back in the late 70's early 80's)

A credit to you and Nat and his team - and lets not forget James for the great engine work

Depends on your budget etc but I do like the look of the 14point7 units. see http://www.14point7.com - they have complete built or built your self setups. I have recently purchased one of the OEM eval kits as it is small and I did not want a display (ECU will record the via its Datalog).

88mm is you are allowed to run 88mm is a good step - this gives you the bore clearances for larger valves as Peter state - more flo and at the end of the day an ICE is just a big air pump - with a bang in the middle Peter has cover all other details in his post above. Good luck with the build.

87 vs 89 ok. 1. Not sure if the rules are the same in Oz but for some classes of racing here in NZ a max over bore of 1.5mm is permitted so that is a good reason for going 87mm or 87.5mm only on a L28 block. 2. Going smaller = more room to grow/rebuild on the same block 3. More meat in the bores Re the power levels and high RPM Power is from the head yes the bottom end needs to be up to the task and the extra CC from the bottom ends = you don't have to spin it as hard to make the same power. But a well build 87 or even stock bore can yield some impressive power numbers. Forged slugs are better for sure and if I was doing it I would go forged items - I only had those Tomie cast slugs as I got them for the right price at the time (RRP on them was $800 USD but I got them for less than 1/2) Re the comment about factory prep rods vs aftermarket 1. I would not prep factory items again 2. Aftermarket H-beam are lighter (will help with your higher rpm requirement) 3. Aftermarket units come with ARP fasteners I say this as by the time I prep my last set of rods, shot penn, balanced, and new bushes (I used RB30 little end bushes as they are a good bush - but that mean some machining costs to the little end = would have been better to just get aftermarket items from the start) the cost was about the same as new lighter H-Beam aftermarket items but I was still using some 30year rods??? If I were you - do as Peter has - new aftermarket H-Beam rods (be they FJ or L24 replacement - check out maxspeedingrods for L24 rods as a good price) and forges slugs - you will not have to worry about the bottom end if the rest is done right - then if racing and budget allows it every few seasons work on head development to get better HP each season there is still a lot to learn about getting power from a L6 head

not so much oh dang for cast. I had a set of 90mm in the same setup once - L24 rods on L28 crank. They were cast and only 40g heavier than a mates forged JE 87 units. They were some of the nicest cast pistons I have even seen. Mine were out of Japan - and were old Tomie items (that is correct Tomie not Tomei they were new old stock)

260z racks are different. One mounting bush is the same the other is larger so it looks like you have the 260z bush kit to me not the 240z kit. 240z racks have a bolt in them that can be removed and replaced with a grease nipple. 260z don't have this feature. 260z racks have two bearing on the input shaft and 240z unit have one and a bush if I recall correctly. 240z racks come in one ratio 3.6 turns lock to lock? 260z have 2 different ratios if I recall. One is 3.5 the other is 3.7