NZeder

Did some digging on ebay - and found the ad/listing it is/was an Auto, has white interior looks complete but states no engine or wheels. So perfect for a project car and NSW

that is a paddock find if there every was one $500 bargain even if the motor is missing and most of the floors - it looks complete and is worth it in spares alone, 260z stub axles, R200 (if manual) etc. Can't want to see more pics and let the project begin

No what you are seeing is the difference between the 240z rear arms and the 260z rear arms

All the cali clocks I have seen are the same - different colour to the other dials - maybe from a different manufacture? Good to see my old clock sitting in its new home and looking the parts

Looks good - square reservoirs look like they will hold more too

Long time no update - again. Don't get much time in the shed with a growing family, but good things take time. So over the Xmas/New Years started to think more about the fuel system and what I needed to do for my carb to EFI conversion. I already had a surge tank and external pumps.....but. As I started to look under the car and surf'n the net for pics of other installs I came to the conclusion that there is not a lot of room. After spending some hours looking over hybridz as all the different solutions around I decided I would have my tank modified to have a swirl pot/baffles installed inside and use just one in-tank pump. So I popped into the fabricators shop to discuss the modification to my tank. We talked and he showed me his custom tank in his race car. He had these 2 cool little Goss low pressure lift pumps that pump gas from the main tank into another surge tank then his main pump from that. My plan at that point was to still baffle the tank and run one internally. That night I got on-line and looked up the Goss pumps he was using (thinking about a mate race car and his surge issues, I was looking for the specs on the pumps), I found a catalogue online in PDF format. I looked over this as it was very good - explaining the difference between the types of pumps etc. There was a section that was dedicated retro fit installations (if there is a copy right issue I will remove this section but for those that want to see the whole pdf here is the link http://www.noelsautoparts.com.au/Goss%20Catalogue.pdf) So looking at that - I thought a module base system might be the best solution. If I was going to get my tank modified why not have a standard and common module installed. That led me to the BA/BF or VX fuel modules. Should be common in this part of the world and using the catalogue and the flow rates I could see they would flow more than enough for my setup The next thing to work out was which one to use. Looking at the catalogue and web for pics....well that took some time. But I came across a guys Mustang project showing how he installed the BA fuel module and I noticed it bolted down directly with 6 bolts. So cool that looked simple not like the commodore setup which used a twist lock setup = I would have to get a tank too so I could get the whole seat/lock setup. The issue is fuel tanks these days are plastic so that meant the GM donor was out. The next thing to find out was the height of the unit. A visit to a local Ford wrecker resulted in me having a lighter wallet and holding a BA/BF Falcon Wagon Fuel Module. Now the bonus for me is that this unit also includes a fuel lever sender that operates in the more normal 230-40ohm range which is the default calibration for my aftermarket gauge nice. So why the BA/BF Wagon and not the sedan. Well as stated above it comes with the level sender which the sedan does not. But over all height was the key decider. The wagon unit is the same overall height as the 260z fuel tank at approximately 340mm (FYI the Commodore units are 340mm also). This height was to the top of the fittings. So the tank was going to have to be lowered so the hoses etc so they don't hit the floor etc. The other thing I found once I got hold of the fuel module is that swirl pot on the bottom was spring loaded so it can be compressed by about 25-30mm. This gave the fabricator some room to move. They installed it lower than it needed to be but that is good thing as this does give me more room to work with dash/AN fittings etc. I guess the other good thing about this setup is if the flow is not enough (if other follow my lead) the Walbro GSS340 255lb/h upgrade kits can be installed into the module - so that would be good for 550HP in boosted and 650HP in Atmo. I have to get some tank sealer on to the welded parts of the tank as fuel/oxygen/steel = rust unless a fuel/petrol tank sealer is used to stop this from happening. As the module also has the level sender I had the original removed, original outlet, returned closed off and the stock vent also removed as the module has a vent pressure value built into the top. Anyway pic time I guess

yes Mikuni envy for sure....now just to find some Mikuni 50's......missed out on some a few years back....kicking my self I did not pick them up

Not sure what Dave got his for - but I know when the S50B32 in the Targa E36 M3 Evo that I sometime pit crew for put a leg out of bed (bank + hitting it = hole in the sump = bang in the engine) the replacement was $4K NZ Funny money. Which is around $12.50 an HP ie 321 x 12.50 is approx $4000 - so that is cheap really

3.2 to be exact - give way was the "First production engine with 100HP per litre" and at 321HP = 3.2l + the engine code gives its size away too S50B32 (S50 series and 32 or 3.2 for the size) a S50B30 - go figure is 3.0l Good to see the engine has made it way into the engine bay - sits nicely - good way back I see the need for the short clutch MC setup now. Looking at the pic looks like you might be better to see if you can have the MC completely inside the car ie modify the pedal so it is longer and then have MC facing towards the firewall. I believe we discussed the sizing of the BMW MC it is 3/4 vs the stock 240z/260z which is 5/8. I know Tilton make the 75 series which are nice and short - come with a remote res option so maybe this will be the best setup for extra clearances. I was look at one of the RockyAuto RB30 installs and could not see a MC on the firewall at all. The engine was hard up against the firewall so I thought they must have done the same.....but then I found more pics of the same car on a other website - it was an Auto lol. Those S50B32 engines are pound for pound one of the best in-line 6 in factor spec. NA and 321HP so that should be 240HP at the wheels for a factory engine that is just fantastic.

Love the work Tim - just had to go back to the beginning and start this thread over again Anyway one question I see you had a custom allow tank made - but why did you know have the swirl pot/surge tank build in to it? The only answer I can come up with you wanted to run external pumps from a maintenance stand point. i.e. you don't have to drop the tank to replace the pumps/pre filters + with that sound you will not hear the pumps anyway

Original rims were 14 x 5.5 +18 if the alloys and 14 x 5 + 20 for the steel with hub caps IIRC there were some fitted with 14 x4.5 steel rims too.

I have but I don't have the cleaves on the end of it any more as this is on my new Toyota item I installed. But then I am in NZ too so might not be much help - shipping and all. So use me as a last resort if locally all else fails.

Mine was simple - the first forum I signed up for was hybridz and all the normal usernames were taken aka 240z - 260z 260zed zedfan etc. So I went with NZEDER - I am a zeder like the rest of us + I am a kiwi - NZeder is what I went with on hybridz and every other forum since even went as far as getting it as a domain name nzeder.net for my website.

I agree only difference I can see is the LHD designed = bleeders on the inner guard side not out to the engine bay - which is a non issue as you rarely bleed at the MC directly (except for install time)

Peter toyota's are usually simple to understand for example. KE20 K = Motor type ie a 3K or 4K etc E = Corolla 20 = generation and body/trim level RA40 R = R engine series ie 18R etc A = Celica/Supra 40 = 4th gen So a TA22 is a Celica with the T series engine ie 2T or 2T-G and an AE86 = A Series aka 4Age, E = Corolla, 8 = 8th generation, 6 = body/trim level.

Don't know about the doors but targa top seals (if 2 seaters is the same as the 2+2) can be had from vintagerubber.com Also have you checked out MSA and Black Dragon to see what they have?

Nice work on the wiring - I know what you mean - I have been working on mine over Xmas/New Years. Well done on the work - it takes time to get the wiring looking good.

I think we all have been in the same boat - selling a car/vehicle and wished we had kept it. You know a friend said that . I have thought about this statement a number of times and he is right.

Interior/trim work looks fantastic excellent work and credit to you and the auto-upholster

Ok I found another solution for those wanting a shorter version than the Toyota AE86 item. I found on a Toyota forum that they install a Mitsubishi Pajero/Showgun item when requiring more clearance on engine conversions aka Lexus V8 - after all a corolla/celica does not have a large engine bay like a zed. This Pajero Clutch MC comes in two sizes depending on year and engine in the car. From the quick checking the pre 96 2.8 diesel has the very short 5/8 version and the 97-01 Pajero NL model has a 3/4 item. Here is pic of the Pajero item - from what I can tell most have the pipe exit on the right when looking at them fitted on the firewall looking back from the front of the car - just like the Toyota AE86 item. However this morning I found a pic one listed on evilbay in the UK for a 3.0 V6 91-99 and one the right side there is no pipe fitting so it might be on the left. I think we would need to check them out in person rather than my google searches to know 100% for sure which is the item to get Anyway here are some pics from what I can find/make out the partnumber are JB6041 = 5/8 unit and JB9528 = 3/4 unit However would need to eyeball to confirm for sure.

Quick google - S2000 CMC = 0.62" aka 5/8 same as the stock item. Now for the slave the stock pre 72 cars had 11/16" and the later post 72 = 3/4"

Ok David you got me looking again - not for me this time as I have my setup Have you checked out a Honda S2000 clutch MC - they look very short and maybe shorter than the Commodore unit. See here for an image Would need to check out the bore etc but the stock zed items are Master = 5/8 Or you could make/modify the pedal box for a internal MC setup like the Datsun 1200 boys do - see http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Hydraulic_clutch

So with that I assume you will - like Tim - move to a cable for the accelerator as with the linkage setup you will have issues also if 79mm is still to tight. As the linkage will sit further forward that the AE86 setup I have. The linkage is a tight fit too but it will work for me on my setup just. UPDATE: So I thought I would check out what RockyAuto do on their RB conversions. See this car - RB is way back, it is a manual, but I can't see a clutch MC at all. So it must be inside the car - so maybe they have changed the complete pedal box in this case? But given the stock looking brake setup I would guess not? see http://www.rockyauto.co.jp/stock/comp_detail.php?id=10761

Some more pics for reference

David to answer your question "confirm the total distance the MC stands out from the firewall?" The stock item is 116mm from the firewall to the end. This AE86 item is 79mm Some pics to confirm (cell phone pics sorry ) First the stock item measured on the bench Then the AE86 MC