NZeder

wow impressive - looks like a line on the un-broken - that is impressive - that is some twist.

I also thought the fact the 6 speed is almost a non serviceable item would have been in the 5 cog favour too. Back on topic.....great work on the new mount setup. I too would have thought the engine would lean more to the exhaust side like a factory RB install.

hmm closer look and I can see the plug-in axles bolt/nut so I change my guess to a Z32/R32 shaft that has been cut/sectioned/welded

hrmm too me it looks like a Z32 outer welded to a Z31 inner making the custom length CV shaft setup - and it broke at the weld. So the result is some new custom length shafts - would that be correct?

one of the guys that had a Donovan V8 in his racing 240z here in NZ fitted a speedway engineering IRS diff - never had an issue after that - back to U-J's but the size of them was...well massive. And as it was a race car changing the diff ratio was a simple task

Well it is your thread after all and I could not have you and other posting there guess in this topic now could I Well the reason this engine came to mind is a guy I know of here in NZ has just picked up one that is damaged and he is going to turn it into an endurance race car. I believe one he does plan to re-power the DB7 with much larger V8 that he has in his shed. This same guy also has a 260z 2 seater shell with a full cage that said V8 was meant to go into - so you never know what could happen What an engine that is going to move a zed along very nicely indeed.

All alloy dohc 24 valve in-line 6 cylinder, 3239cc, Eaton Supercharger, sequential fuel injection. Aston Martin DB7 power plant so UK - given the engine was a Cosworth or Tom Walkinsaw Racing (I can't recall which)

hmm David and John stop it....all these nice 6 cylinders from Euro cars now you have me thinking....I know of another inline 6 that as the following specs would need to look into them some more to see if they could fit into a S30 shell. 91 bore x 83 strock 355HP output and 500nm (368 ft lb) 0-62MPH in 5.8seconds and the car this engine is from is 1725kg hmmm

Good points in there - NZ lost a lot more when the car manufacturing went away. A large part of the content was also local manufactured ie seats, exhausts and tyres...well all those industries we away along with the auto assembly plants. Very Very Sad indeed. Look at NZ now - going to hell in a hand cart and fast. Our Government talk about bridging the wage gap between NZ and OZ to stop the mass exit's but the gap is too large and last year wage earners here got an average of 1.7% increase vs 4% inflation - that is not even keeping up let along trying to catch up with Tassie let along the rest of OZ for wage equality. Our min wage went up to $13.50 the other day and with the current exchange rate the min is $20 of our funny money over there. The government talk about how properties prices are lower as is personal income tax - who gives a rats arse - that is just part of the TAX we pay factor in G-S-T (Grab Snatch and Take), local council taxes etc it BS. I lived in VIC and I have earned the same $$ valve on both side of the tasman and the personal income TAX might be lower in this country but they kick in at different levels so I had more cash in the hand in Oz that in NZ for the same salary. The cost of living was about the same back then - $2.50 for pack of briskets in AUD in Oz and $2.50 NZD in NZ. But like I said less cash in hand in NZ for that lower income TAX....BS. So as pointed out NZ cars might be 25% less than the same euro car in Oz but with the lower wages etc = same if not more. As for the Ozzie made cars....well I did the numbers once it cost $15K extra to ship a Falcon or Commodore to NZ and sell than to WA (same distance - ok so some water not a large bit of dirt) when you compare the sale prices WTF - so we have less wages and pay more for the Ozzie made cars. Anyway rant over. And in case you ask why did I come back to NZ - well my Zed was here is that good enough? + the other half wanted to start a family and if was to be part of it - I had to drag my sorry arse back too.

Those pics remind me of the ones I got of my zed - however mine I got from the PO after his rollover on a zclub track day back in the 80's That is some serious work going into that shell top effort

Ok so tonight I did a little bit more work on the zed. Some might have seen post on this forum or hybridz about Electric Power Assist Columns those of you with a keen eye would have seen that have purchased one of the JDM conversion items - I did this when the NZD to JEN was good so it did not hurt the pocket as much. Last year when I had the certifying engine over to check over the project before I started putting it back together (to make any changes he required now) we discussed the steering column. He pointed out that non factory welds will not pass so if mating shafts together they have to be splined and bolted/pinned or at the uni-joints. So that put me off installing this unit - for a few months. So I painted up the stock column and installed that. Well I started to look at this again about 3 weeks ago. I decided I could do the install without welding or spline of shafts. I only have to sort out the mounting of the column/switch gear now but I have a plan for that now too after tonights efforts Anyway more info will follow once I get this sorted but I had a spare 260z column - so this has been cut up and will be used on this conversion - again more pics in a few weeks once it is all sorted. But this is what I have done to get the lower part of the suzuki column to mate to the 260z rack. In the pic attached you will see the Suzuki item at the top. Then the 260z collapsible shaft removed from the housing (which is next item down in the pic) and last is another old shaft I had which is the 240z column shaft removed from the housing you can see how the collapsible part is different to the 260z item - but that is not important and just here for reference. Anyway I contacted a local driveline/CV shop as they said that can replace crosses in steering shafts. Short version is one suzuki lower shaft has its cross replaced and rather than joining the other end of the suzuki uni it was substituted for the 260z coupler unit end. I still have to source some bearing to hold this new suzuki shaft in the lower part of the 260z column housing but once that is done more pics then

looking good Benny Good to see someone is making progress on their project - I really need to pull finger and get mine done.

yes it does look like it....but here is pic of the their sump fresh out of the cast. And also the wooden pattern they made cast these up Having access to a foundry would be so so cool

Yes please 85mm stroke nice

The odd spaced head is the FIA LY cylinder head made by Nissan back in the day that was FIA approved and sold off the sports option catalogue. Also homologated for Group 4. I know of a local cylinder head business here in NZ that makes/cast/sells new head for the Nissan Z20/24 range of engines. Now have a close look at these heads (see here) http://www.kiwicylinderheads.com/modelphototest.asp?partid=68&productid=&companyid=5 and compare to the FIA head above.....see where I am going with this. Now we just need these guys to cast up one with the extra 2 cylinders and we have a FIA replica head

Ok.......ok pressure.... Some more pics then. One of these is the real LY head The other is the donor this was built on in its natural form. Peter you are correct it is a custom cover as in the sump and the intake manifold all cast in a foundry. Last pic is the head during the rework phase.

FYI here is a pic of a real LY Keep guessing

I will let this thread run a little longer while people think about this and then I might let a little more info go slowly yes I know bit of tease but it is a very interesting build and does get the old grey matter working. But for now I will

Now I have been sitting on this a while now....but I found out about that some time ago and it is not an LY the engineering that has gone into make this head look like that is nothing but outstanding. Now the original site I found has many many pics of the build. You all will be surprised to know the head is common and in Oz will be easy to find. Now all we need is the guy to make the other parts available for sale with info on how to do the rest This pic will give you an idea on the work that went into this build

Always happens some of the factory paint/sealer can sometime really really stick and then in other places you only need to blow air over the location and the stuff is removed. The media will keep coming out of the car. My zed was on a rotisserie and it was rotated/vacuum/rotate/vacuum etc and I still get grit out of it. I too did the firewall wiper box repair - cut until we got clean steel = almost one side to the other. Just make sure the pedal box and heat box fit easily before you weld it for good. We forgot to check the heater box so I have had to get the rubber hammer out and so some minor bending on the heater box and a little on the wiper box I guess the floor of the wiper box moved down just a few mm's

Well I am going for a dual 2" setup on my install aka Z432 style the centre muffler looks like this.....internet surf'n for a pic of the setup I have (mine is at home under the bench = hard to get a pic while at work ).....ok got pic attached now you can see it is not that high at all - nice and low

ok those fumes. Well I would hope my engine does not fume that much + I don't plan on disconnecting the battery very often either. I have a isolating switch/circuit breaker to disconnect the battery and will have another location for posts for charging and jumping if need be. And you are right it does look beautiful - cost a bit and now the inner guards have been drilled for it to be mounted it will be staying.

How so? It is a sealed battery that does "Gas Recombination" and is a "lead-calcium tin alloy" aka no acid so how can that fume - it can be mounted in "any orientation" upside down if you wish. Sparks....well if you are that worried about sparks don't drive a stock zed then have you seen how close the factory battery holder is to the positive terminal - much closer than this setup. Trust me I know - my zed caught fire many many years ago at a sealed gymkhana event when the battery moved 3-4 mm shorting out the + on the factory holder = Fire and melted/welded battery holder = rewire the high power part of the car as that all got smoked too (ie alternator wires, fusible links

I had a new battery tray made. This holds the battery underneath a oil catch can. It was custom made and a one off. I have really bad Cell Phone pic I will attach for you. My battery is a small dry cell unit and as my zed is EFI like Dimitri I should not have any starting issues. Since these pics were taken I have added the vent filter on the top - also under the centre of the catch can area is another Dash AN fitting that comes forward to a tap just under the battery. I then add a Dash 6 hose fitting when I need to drain the can.

or under the dash on the side of the pedal box then just have remote reservoir under the bonnet.