NZeder

That is what I did on my setup - I have K-Mac tops but wanted to get them to sit lower than the provided Nut/bottom spacer they provided. The issue the nut K-Mac supplied only has the thread in the lower part = the part I need to turn down So I did just as stated above - got a stock Nissan wheel nut, had that turned down to fit into the spherical ball and leaving a good bit of the 19mm hex on the top - this worked perfect and the engineer was happy with this setup too

Looks like a good size block. How large? room for the big shed one day?

hmm just might point out the original is a 5 piece setup not a single piece I have 4 of the 5 original parts for my G-Nose. LH headlight bucket, RH headlight bucket, top centre section, lower section and the urethane bumber = 5 pieces

The high temp stuff I got is Insultherm "Insultherm is braided from fiberglass yarns and saturated with high temperature resins that improve the product's stability and minimize irritating fiberglass dusting during cutting and installation. The sleeving is tough and durable, maintaining its tight structure under extreme vibration, abrasion, mechanical stress and temperature variations." Then Flexo-PET for the other part of the loom that will not see high temps - Flexo-PET is like heat shrink rating - "-75 to 125 degrees C"

no that exy either - I have enough for the engine bay for under, a long way under, $100 including heat shrink that is 3:1 ie 9mm down to 3mm, 21mm down to 7mm. The heat shrink was almost twice as much as the Flexo-PET per meter for sim sizing. The stuff that is rated to 650 degrees is very $$ so I only picked up 1m for the O2 sensor loom.

Here you go then First this was the first plan. I modified the leaver and I was going to connect the front cable from a Skyline/S14/S15 - but this meant I needed to drill some holes in the floor and make a new bracket to mount rear of this cable setup So the next plan - I was looking at the cable termination and the stock setup and moved one to another idea but first the rear cable holder (some of these pics posted before) these were made from some EXA parkbrake holders and a new bit of steel added to place in the correct location. This bolts to the top of the stock rear strut housing were the hardline/softline bracket mounts. Now version 2 - this was simple in the end - I removed the cable from the stock S14/S15 front cable leaving the rear cable holder. The centre pivot hole was not large enough so this was increased (a simple drill was used for this task) the stock M6 rod from the standard setup was removed and this was found to be too short. So a longer M6 bolt was used and the head was filed down to match the size and shape of the stock rod. Simple in the end and these pics will tell the story. The new bracket mounts to the stock cable holders on the floor works very very well

been a while I know - not a lot to report - thought I had finished up the engine loom when I noticed I forget the IAT sensor wiring - so had to unwrap the loom. Not a big deal mind you as I have decided to now cover with Flexo-PET I will get some pics up as soon as the engine loom is finished - then I will complete the engine bay loom with Flexo-PET also. Sorted the hand/park brake on the hybrid setup I have - again will post pics later - works perfectly and I am happy with the result - simple in the end - did try and take the hard road to begin with but realised the errors or my ways and when back to a more stock leaver/linkage setup in the end. So much so that this solution could work for others doing other sorts of rear brake conversions. The basic out come was stock linkage setup with just one new bracket under the car to terminate the new S14/S15 hand/park brake cables - again a picture will help - need to get my A in G and post/host some more pics on my website I am helping a mate out this weekend with his race car at the track so again not much time in the shed planned. But I did pick up a few things from the local fabricator will show all later - dropped it back today to get a new mount bracket added to finish up this new addition to the car. Again I have taken some time off over Xmas so lets see if that pans out to time in the shed or time with the kids - I hope both and I hope to achieve a lot during this time off - again time will tell. Cheers Mike PS will get some pics posted very very soon

or do as I do - a hose can be replaced = get out the knife and cut alone the hose if it is tight = better and cheaper than fixing a tank.

JB Weld will do the trick - seen it used on a sump for a number of race seasons with no new leakage of oil - it was applied with no oil around that part of the sump at the time - but bolted to the block - it was not 100% flat = flex = the small crack would open up but you could have it on the bench not bolted up, full it with liquid and no leaks. JB Weld was the fast fix that lasted a long time and would still be working if the sump was not fixed correctly/welded up.

I believe 98 and avgas don't mix that well - 91 and avgas mix better All this is a little off topic - this man is looking for a 240z tank.....checking parts catalogues it looks like the early 260z tank could possible be the same. I say could. We know/believe the early 260z 2 seater shell is the same as the later/last 240z shell with some minor changes for the tails lights etc. The parts number are different for the tanks however up to 07/73 and L24 aka 240z is part number 17201-E4100 from 08/73 to 08/74 and L26 aka early 260z part number is 17201-N3500 then the later 260z has two part numbers but also list they are interchangeable - these tanks are different to the 240z items and will not fit into a 240z. 09/74 to 07/75 = 17201-N4500 08/75--to end of production = 17201-N4501

If you are looking for boss kit then just get one for any 70's Datsun they all have the same spline, 1600, 180B, 240z/260z, 280zx and even the 620 Ute/Truck/Pickup

I too was missing my Slave Pin - so I went to the local pick-a-part wrecker (not sure if you have them in OZ - but you pay small gate entry fee - take your tools, remove the part you want then pay for the part as you leave) and I got a pin from a Nissan Pulsar/Sentra early/mid 90's and it worked perfect - same length and size.

I will be waiting for Pete's set sending my funny money once converted to good Oz $$ to Pete Just PM me when a set is ready for this Kiwi

and more

Update time. I will let the pics tell most of the story. But there are 2 type of tie rods for the XT-XW-XY range of falcon. Those known as early Ford and then the later type. Tapers are different but all other dimensions are the same.

That is for the out side air/recyc part of the heater. There are few race car that I know that have just close off the hole, not installed the heater and do just as you are thinking. I have seen MSD, fuse and other items install in this area aka GPS track mapping/data logging etc. Does that help?

Yep I did not say it was a good or bad idea - just that someone had under taken the task here in NZ. It would be a mammoth task for sure and having a well designed girdle that can be CNC would be a much cheaper option in the long run as more could be produced from the design work once done. As you have stated there is already a design floating around Oz so if this works why re-invent the wheel (I should listen to that myself - custom one of rear brake setup...silly man...all for a internal drum for the park brake - dual purpose cars always a compromise )

There was an engine built here in NZ that use an RB crank girdle - it was modified for the L6 block and line bored to match. I think this path was taken as it was a one off, as we know the RB bore spacing is the same as the L6, this girdle includes the main caps too. But that was a bit of engineering to get it to work as the rear main is very different between the 2 and I am not sure how it was done but heard it had been done.

I see you have a 393 stroker and over 400HP well then to quote a post on different forum So the question is what can you do to fix the axle tramp?? I have read that a larger front swap bar can help as this will aid in keeping the front flatter. But then if the zed shell is very stock then you will eventually (sooner rather than later) tear the swap bar mounts/split the chassis rails were it mounts. So my questions would be this. 1. Does the car have a cage? 2. If the answer to number 1 is yes then, does this cage tie the front suspension/strut tops to the rest of cage? And this cage should pickup the tops of the rear struts too. 3. What chassis rigidity/strengthening has been carried out? 4. Have to tied the stock front chassis rails to the rear stock chassis subframe? I ask these question based on the statement of putting down over 400HP in shell/unibody designed for much less. Also with 225 tyres you need a lot more rubber for that much power I would say 245 in the rear would be a good start but if running 15" you are very limited to period rubber like the TB5/TB15 if you want wider than 235/50 - yes you can get wider 15" but not in a profile that suits the zed ie drag rubber MT etc EDIT: My bad you did not get axle tramp but RB30X did...so my questions should be towards RB30X setup not yours but given Tim's is also a V8 aka torque monster = twist will be applied to the chassis with a boot full and thus making one side lighter and thus causing the axle tramp yada yada yada.

Yep mine too mine you might recall it? It's the "Ghosts of Bay Park" car aka ex Palmer car a 76 build (sold in 77 and imported into NZ in 78) it has the factory mounts for sway bar but it appeared to never have been fitted/optioned in at purchase time. I think it was market dependant (that is a guess) and I assume spring rates for the given market. ie the US cars were known to run softer springs and it appears many of the later cars from the US do appear to have been factory fitted with a small 16-18mm rear sway bar. Well just to let you know even if you have 400lb spring in the rear of the S30 you will still have camber changes under load unless you redesign the whole rear end, which is why many these days, who don't care about keeping the original rear end, install S13/S14/R32 type rear subframes to over come these issues but then they add so much weight you do have wonder why bother - but that is just my opinion. 1.3 neg on the rear is not too bad before my mate race car moved to adjustable rear arms he had over 2.5 on the rear. Also 220lb is not that soft really. I would say 150lb is soft - 220lb is middle of the road and 500lb would be the highest you would want to run and you want a cage with that high rate too or the body becomes the flex point - which it will be anyway even with stock springs. Just jack up a zed at one end ie front or rear does not matter - open the door and see how it opens differently to when the car is on all four wheels - that is the flex in the S30 chassis right there.

I do question why people want to run a rear swaybar on the rear of a car with IRS - yes a small item if you don't want to run heavier springs. But no sway bar and heavier springs with the correct damper/rebound setting is a better solution for controlling an IRS setup IMHO. And this is backed up by the feed back from Zedman240z Why people want to add a bar and make a kind of live axles is beyond me - why have a car with IRS at all then. Again a small bar is ok for road usage with low spring rates but if it is the track and real performance you are after - again control an independent rear end with shock compression/rebound and a heavier spring. My 2c worth.

Ok I picked up some TE420R today and news could be better. The XY only uses TE420R however the XW uses TE420R and another version TE391R (notice how that partnumber is almost the same as the one Whitte got PTE391R) so I think the XY is the incorrect information which has lead me on a little bit of incorrect direction + the TE420R partnumber sorry Lurch So I installed the TE420R in my steering arm and notice it does work but the nylock nut supplied is only just starting to lock when it's all good and tight. This is not like the pic Whittie has shown above with his install - this show at least 2-3 threads. So I started checking catalogues online. I attach a pic from the NZ suppliers online catalogue it shows the TE420R as the 0.510 tapper and the TE391R as the 0.538 top of the tapper. So this also lead me believe the TE420R to be correct as the 240z/260z is 0.520 at the top of the tapper. The second pic is form the RoadSafe catalogue I found online. It shows the reverse aka TE391R with the smaller top dia/tapper and the TE420R with the larger. So tomorrow I will see if I can return the TE420R and swap for TE391R and confirm the top tappers. I also put at set of calipers over TE420R and the stock tie rod I get TE420R = 13.7mm at the top of the tapper = 0.539 Stock = 13.2mm at the top of tapper = 0.519 I will update this post once I have the TE391R and can confirm the correct tapper/install I will then post the US info ie Moog partnumbers and more info

if it is a 2 seater you can get new replacement including the stainless trim from a few guys in the US and with the OZ $$ v US $$ now would be a good time to purchase. ebay.com should show up a few sets - I got mine from one of the guys from ebay a while back as Nissan did not have any locally or in Japan (so I was told)

Re the tach - most modern tachs internally have a pot/adjustment to calibrate to the correct RPM. If the gauge face is very close and you are only 200-300rpm out that might be able to be tuned out however it might mean you are out down low but more accurate up high - which I am sure would be ok

Good advice already stated here but here is my feedback. Age does not factor in the comment. Just to agree with Simon "invest in good driver training first as these will be with you no matter what car you modify/own/drive" Now when I first got my 260z 2 seater some 17 years ago at 21 it was basically stock. The only suspension mods were some Ford offset camber mounts in the front cross member to align things correctly. The only drive line mod was a clutch pack LSD. So that was how I purchased the car. I did many club events like this ie trails/track time/motorkarna etc. All this help me learn the car more I first upgrade was not to the engine (infact I still have this engine and it is still stock just on the floor of the shed now). I purchased a complete suspension setup from a track car that the owner was turning back into a 100% road car. This lowered the car upgraded the front swap bar and gave me koni adjustables with lovell springs. Result?? Well the car was transformed. Again no engine upgrades and the car was just great on the road. My last 240z had a big $$ engine (purchase the car with it) but nothing special suspension or brakes (stock brakes, koni reds, and unknown weak springs). Engine had good pull and was strong but this was all let down by the suspension. So that had to get some minor work to fix the issues. Once this was done again a differnet car. The point I have gotten more fun/enjoyment from suspension mods than power upgrades. Once you are happy with the handling then move to more power/engine mods. This might lead to more changes in suspension. My 4 cents worth (4 cents of NZ funny money to you ozzies lol)