NZeder

Stock datto 1600 with flogged suspension and only standard seats and belts. Don't know which was moving more, me in-side the car or the car with body roll that drivers behind could just about see day light between body and the top of the tyre lol. If a grass gymkarna counts then my D21 flat desk, bench seat, 1988 Nissan Navara - went just as fast in reverse as it did going forward through the courses crazy fun

The same stuff happened in the UK I believe and here in NZ there is sim stuff happening also and like Whittie my zed is build so I can do the regularity - rules are simple, must be road legal. There is a speed limit (laptime limit) so if your car is faster then you learn to drive the corners well and back off down the straights so you don't break the bar. Points are awarded based on how consistent you are in your laptime based on your nominated laptime. The other rule - no timing devices allowed in the car so you have judge you are sticking to your nominated laptime. NZ has banned the use of Leaded Race Gas aka AVGAS (there is a process to get dispensation for this rule but this is only a temp solution and I believe competitors should be building there engines for unleaded gas = lower compression) This is a big issue for the classic racing here in NZ + with the push tighten up the rules like those CAMS are making cars might just get put away and that would be a shame.

That is not a bad price given what you are getting. $1270 a set - try and price up the period correct AP calipers and good race pads for Wilwoods etc are $500 a set here in NZD (that is funny money to you Ozzies) There is a reason I have sold 3 set of Hilux calipers but have always kept my MK63's at that price I might be tempted to have a new set on the shelf next to my second hand units

Well given MK63's were around long before the Toyota (Sumitomo manufactured) 4x4 aka 12+8/S14W/S13W it is the other way around ie the 4x4 4 pots are like the MK63's I believe some countries have agreed that there is next to no major advantage in running the newer Sumitomo S12W/12+8 so these are permitted as MK63 substitutes - but that does depend on your local racing rules and what CAMS (and other competitors) will permit. PADs and parts can be found in Japan - so I assume importing is the only option. Last time I ordered parts for my MK63 I purchased new pistons, seals and PADS (DS11 for those that recall those pads and I still have them new in the box ) but that was early 90's Sumitomo only recently stop manufacture the MK63's (2 or maybe 3 years ago - so that was a long production run from the early 60's to 00's

They are the correct FIA approved caliper for the 240z/260z and many other Nissan's (240RS also I believe). There were listed on the sport option catalogues for a number of Nissan's including out beloved Zeds. They were factory fitted to the Nissan President. As Dat2kman has stated they were/are available in non-vented (aka straight bolt on no disc changes from stock 240z/260z stuff - thus upgrading from Sumitomo 2 pots to 4 pots and a larger pad area) and vented. The vented setup required the use of the 260z hubs and a special rotor that is NLA from Nissan (last time I priced these up in the mid 90's when you could still get them they were $350USD each). However much like the Toy 4x4 other rotors can be sub in with a correct spacer and specs. These are not light or cheap but are 100% period correct and approved/homologated for the S30z.

To unscrew the fitting first apply some heat. Get a hot air gun and warm the alloy around the fitting. Then once warm/hot it should unscrew with little effort.

6al = analogue aka old tech. 6al-2 digital much newer tech http://www.msdignition.com/product.aspx?id=5813

I too have 2 of the supercheap items. One has had my L28 on there also since 2008 and the other my RB from late 2008 also. I recommend the 4 wheel version for easy of movement. The ones I have are like the 3 wheel version but have an extra bar at the front that hold the 2 front wheels. Not as easy to store stuff under the stand/engine as the 3 wheelers or the larger 4 wheelers (which have a U shape setup) but safer than the 3 wheel version when moving around.

My last 240z (larger than stock engine) I purchase a set of these from Japan http://www.nengun.com/kakimoto-racing/exhaust-manifold but at 48.5mm primaries they might be a little large for a 2400ish cc engine - they worked well on my larger L6 power car

tell me about it. My project has stalled while I to a little wiring at a time. I sold my Megasquirt and went for a unit the would replace the stock RB ECU board allowing me to run stock loom. In the end I have decided to rewire anyway so I could have gone MS. I have purchased from both Glenngarage and DIY and both are execellent to deal with, product shipped fast etc no issues and they both got repeat business

If this is in the UK - why start with a LHD car? Or is it for a customer who is based in another part of EU that requires LHD cars = this shell would have been purchased from the US at a guess so could have started much like Project Hugo - ebay purchase of a "so called" rust free 240z

my first racecar had an old 4 litre oil bottle cabled tied to one the bars (from firewall to struts) as a catch tank. There is a thread on Hybridz about the whole PCV system and the use of an oil catch can/breather - for the life of me I can't find it now.

Thanks to all that replied and helped with the I'd of the wheel

MSD 6AL are not digital they work well but the digital units are better. Mallory and Summit make a unit that is almost the same as the 6AL but digital and don't need different chips to set the rev limit (a position pot/s are used) These unit I believe are the same (as in Mallory and Summit) and the price is good.

Here in NZ did see ILAY4U on a capet layer's van

well apart from the Nissan Engineers and Accountants back in the day that did not want the S20 engine between the struts of the Z which is one of the reasons there were only 480 of Z432 made (+ the L24 was performing well on the track so DOHC was not really required)

so is that for the Skyline 71C or the 200sx version as they have a different pattern where the shifter bolts to on the 71C. I believe the Non turbo Skyline boxes can use the CA/SR 71C shifter but not the Turbo RB20DET box I have 2 x RB20DET boxes and I am having issues finding a shifter

Ok so this is simple a Fairlady Z has a L20a (ie is 2000cc ish) the Fairlady 240z has the L24 (go figure 2400cc ish). Fairlady Z are chassis code S30 (or S31 depending on year) and the Fairlady 240z has the HS30 code (just like the export Datsun 240z) In Japan due to local road tax laws the Fairlady Z was fitted with the smaller L6 engine however the rules changed in late 71 and this allowed Nissan to market L24 powered Zed aka Fairlady 240z. I think I have seen a post by HS30-H on CZCC that explains the difference in the badge script sizing etc. Now was is a rare badged Zed was the Fairlady 260z (well Nissan ended up not making that model so there is only pics of this car floating around when on display at a motoring show back in the day) Locally in Japan the L26 in its config did not meet the emmission required but the L20a with EFI did so the Fairlady 260z died before it even got started Re specs and years well that can get complex if you start talking about standand vs delux spec and then of cause there is what is known as the HS30-H which is commonly known as the ZG. These were Fairlady 240z factory fitted the the G-Nose to help get the G-Nose and overfenders homologated for Nissan race program.

Your is a 2+2 which like the later 260z 2 seater have larger/stronger chassis rails - I would recommend you not use those locations on a 240z or early 260z unless you want to bend them. I use the rear subframe - near the swap bar mounts but I don't have a rear swap bar fitted (and all my zed I have owned if they did have one fitted it was removed) so an axles stand fits in there nicely.

the only issue with E31 these days is finding a good one - ie one that has not had too many large heat cycles and is still uniformly hard across the whole head. If I was looking for a head I would go N42 or the EFI E88 head from the L24E power skyline you guys got in OZ. I believe these E88 heads are like a E31 but have the larger E88 valves and are newer casting = not as old.

wow over 3 months - and no update from me Sad well not a lot has happened. I have tidied the garage to make more room and stacked stuff on shelves (no longer in the car) and mapped out my wiring diagram - long story but the short version is I could not find a diagram that was an exact match to my factory loom = I have traced the whole thing out and created some diagrams for my modified loom. So this week some new weather proof plugs arrived from the US so I will be starting on the engine loom this weekend. I also hope to remove my rear suspension and install the new springs - decided to change rates - like this whole project - scope keeps changing. Anyway while sorting things out in the garage I found my window frames - well the part the mounts to the glass and then to regulator had picked up some rust during there 13+ years in storage. So after some new metal was added to replace the bits no longer there Sad and some good coats of paint they should last another 30 years. Given I am getting home from work late and when I finish dinner I don't have the motivation to get out the garage + weekends is time with the family this project has stalled again some what. So I plan to take some time off work in August and get stuck in and get all the mechanicals sorted. Then I will get a cert engineering to check over this side of the project and then start working on the interior and back on the road before the end of the year - I hope. I will get some pics up in the weekend maybe.

Excellent work I need to do just that - I have now got (finally) a second rack to get the other RH threaded inner from so I will have 2 RHT rack ends. I was going to run with the 280zx end as they are 10mm longer than the stock 240/260z items - I then started to look for a shorter tie rod that would work much like you have done I do have somewhere a list of tie rods that might work (found specs on the web and got the partnumbers) so I was then going to source a pair and do just as you have done (when I get that far with my car - last time it was on the road running 2.5 camber the tie rods were only just on the rack ends, found that our when I took the car to bits ) I have somewhere a list of partnumbers - I should check to see if the one you used is on my list - if not - it will be

believe it or not but 3 size - 10mm, 12mm and 13mm. Long nose have 10mm mostly with some having 12mm. The short nose R200 have 12mm mostly but there are some with 13mm (I believe the S15 HLSD centres are 13mm as are some of the VLSD that are around)

by spool are you taking about a locked spool - yes they are around - I had one once - it was made in Melbourne - can't for the life of me remember who by. The spool I had tied both out shafts together = locked without welding of spider gears - however here in NZ 100% locked diffs are illegal on the road - tracks ok but road is a big no no.

got the specs or a pic of the Zed Hurricane Header?