NZeder

Ok so for sometime I have been wanting to know more about this car And Lurch's thread about his early girl reminded once again of the pic above found on the 'Datsun Performance Centre' website. I have always liked the idea of owning/racing a single seater - would be happy to build a replica from blueprints too. Now as a zed nut it would be great if there was a single seater that was build with a L6 back in the day and replicate that. So I have search and search the internet to see if such a car was built the pic above of the L20B ASP is the closet I have found. Hell an L4 power single seater would be a lot of fun too. So does anyone know more about this said L20b power ASP - anymore pics/specs etc I can't find much on the interweb and I just love the idea of having a Datsun power single seater historic car (be it the real deal or a replica) and one day I might follow up this dream and build a replica if I could get hold of blueprints and specs etc If anyone has any info on any Datsun power single seater that would be outstanding and if you PM me here we can share email addresses and aid in the long term quest to have a Datsun powered single seater. The only other Nissan power single seater stuff I can find is the FJ20 and LZ power formula Pacific/Atlantic cars but LZ engines = rare and very $$ and I can't find any specs on the FJ20 cars that raced in Japan.

well out of the closet Lurch so it got a RWC with all the repairs done nice So brakes and suspension..hmm I would look at it this way......go and get another set of struts thus allowing you to keep the originals for the day that you might want it to go back to 100% original/stock. Like your engine plans keeping the stock item for that maybe one day. Then with your new struts cut away do coil overs bigger brakes etc go for a bolt in camber plate (I know the K-Mac are $$ and heavy by they do allow a good range of camber and caster with no strut top mods at all and if you don't want to drill new holes of cut/slot etc then this is one solution). If it is all bolt in you can just unbolt and swap it back in a few hours and be back to stock in no time. So the next question is what size rims do you want to run on the car? I ask and that will make up your mind on the brake setup. The AZC brake kit is good value for the $$ but if 15" is what you want then you are limited to only a select few 15" rims. 16" with the AZC should have no issues. If you want a good bit of rubber on the road and wide rims are required but now the kicker I assume with this zed you will be keeping the body stock so that means flares are out of the question as would be rolling the lips? So you are now limiting the size of the rim you can run down to 7" with stock spring perches. So coilovers will allow you to run a wider rim up to 8" with the right offset. Now that brings me around to tyres and what look you want for the car - if you are going to a period type look then you will want taller profile as that was all that was around back then. So this does bring you back to 60 profile for true period correct road look and maybe 50. If you go 50 that does open up the 16" again with the 225/50/16 not looking too big on the zed. But a 245/50/16 is large and requires a large rim and thus they out of the picture at a guess. If 60 is what you want to run then 15" or original 14" sizing is all that is left that will not make the zed look over tyred. at 14" big brakes are out can't go much more than the stock sizing maybe vented and add some cooling So this is what I conclude 16x7 or 16x8 (with the right offset +10 or more + ie upto +20 on the 8" 7" does not matter) with a 225/50/16 and the AZC brake type setup and coilovers for the 8" to clear inside) 15x7 or 15x8 (again offset would be the same) with either a 225/50/15 or a 205/215/60/15 coilovers for the 8" wide rims due to the + offset to clear the stock fenders and then that leaves the brakes. The VT commodore is a good setup I had this on my last 240z and the performance was excellent. So with a 15" you are limited to around 300mm rotors So Lurch - what size tyres/rims do you want to run I think that is the first question. Then go from there. Love the car by the way and the story that goes with it and finding a 40 year old car with one owner is a rare find indeed.

Adam love what you have done with the project. I would love to a stock zed too to go with my hybrid build then I can have both which is why I did purchase a 240z but then in the end that needed to be sold to pay for the hybrid build as I used Glasurit and therefore can confirm the price of painting a car in this paint. If my brother was not a panelbeater/carpaint a good shop would charge 10-15K to a whole car like mine was ie bear shell inside and outside - still the material add up for sure. Well done and I can't wait to see those new SS front and rear bars - are you happy with the product? I know they are not fitted but if you are like me I can wait to see them fitted. Rechroming bars here in NZ (from the good place) is now about $600 NZD (funny money to use Ozzies) each bar. So that makes these bar a good purchase IMHO

Well I gave them to Lurch.....so Lurch who did you forward my badages on too.....I can tell you as they are metal version I do want them back that was the deal from the get go - either that or someone has to pay the same $$$ I did so I am not out of pocket

That mod (25 vct head on 30 bottm end) is well documented on the interwebby there is a pdf you can find if you google As Lurch has stated you can get enough power from the single so unless you are going for the look you can leave the single cam head on for now

As in from the factory or when you got it? I assume it left the factory with it as the thread topic states "Pollution gear Question" or have these drugs just stuff my mind - like it needed help lol Ok I am a pic type of guy. So this is from the factory parts manual. Number 1 = fuel feed line Number 5 = fuel return line Number 8 = Tube Evapo (Australian spec model only) So are you talking about number 8 and then I also assume your car is a 260z and has the evapo unit on the size next to the fuel filler - again Australian spec model only If it is number 5 - some people just block of the return when running triples - pump the fuel up and leave it there until you use it all If there is no RWC issues then removing it should be good but as I am not based in Australia and don't understand your local laws about pollution regs just make sure you can remove it from your zed and keep it legal (I understand someone has removed some of it already, but Nissan has added this stuff to the Australian specs cars for a legal reason I assume) I hope these pics help a little and if you like (as I am still off sick) I could colour all the bits that are on the Australian Spec so you can see what can be removed (if legally allowed that is) Cheers drugged up Mike

You are right I was thinking of another post about pollution controls and RWC....So if you don't need it for RWC now or in the future yes you can remove aka My zed was never fitted with it and it is a late model 260z so it will work fine without. I guess I should not post when I loaded with drugs after having 2 days off work sick as a dog

Great news let the fun begin

can you not say it was imported from NZ were that kind of stuff was never fitted even on the 77+ 260z like mine (well made in 76 but not sold until 77 and imported in to NZ in 78 from a pacific island)

hmm given my zed is mostly still a shell (still, better get off my A and "get her it done") I could weigh up the later 260z 2 seater parts will be interesting to see which parts weigh more. Not all my parts are stock now though with different suspension, brakes etc

260z 280zx does not matter same part number for both cars and both sides. The early 240z does have a different part number but it the same = different supplier to Nissan = different partnumber

That explains why here in NZ I have no luck getting S30 parts now (orders for Nissan Japan must now go via Nissan Australia and they don't even try to price up the part or contact Nissan Japan my local Nissan guy used to talk to Japan directly but now he must go via Australia) If it is any help I will try Nissan in NZ and see what they say?

Welcome to the forum and lets hope you sort the L28 issues. Talking of the cats I was watching the game on the tube (yes we get AFL here in NZ on SkyTV - reminds me of the few years I live in Melbourne) vs the pies and the guy who now is in my old role in Melbourne is big pies fan. So I had to SMS him and give him a hard time.

Yes an NZ follows whatever happens in vic = we are a nanny country lol. Re the brakes and suspension 260z with the 55 strut tube 75+? is the same spension as that installed in the US 280z but if aus new with harder spring rates

There was guy on Hybridz.org years ago that installed a 13B - I did think of doing a 26B - quad rota once as there have been a number built here in NZ (3 are now in the US) and one of the CNC shops I have used is the guy that makes the kits. However the cost is what put me off but the sound of a quad rota is just nuts.

One thing I might point out with regards to flares (I think given I have custom steel flares I can comment on this) for good wide rims/tyres a flare along is not going to fix the clearance issues on the S30 chassis. You need to remove the inner guard to get the clearance required. But if you do this you take lot of the structural strength away from the rear so you have to mini tub the inner guard out to the flare. This is what I have done. Bolt on ZG flares look ok but don't do this unless you cut away the outer guard and move the inner guard up to this new hight. Now with that said you can always do what is done in Japan for ZG flares on lowered Zed - hard hard springs then the tyre does not move into this danger zone of the stock guard and inner guard. So my 2c worth - if you do it tub it.

If you want to see a good SR20DET conversion check out ClassicZcar forum. Look for a thread under Car Forums titled "24 Months of Intensive Restoration"

I got the same bonnet vents - got them when the first production run was done - 18-24months ago now. So how easy to fit? I did not like the way I have drill new holes - I am thinking of gluing them in with urethane glue or the like.

I recall seeing somewhere that the L6 engine should have 28-29" primaries and then run a twin system for a total length of 72" after that you can join the twin into a single - 72" ends up just before the diff I think. That was from an old Datsun race book I think.

Those hmheaders look too short for a race engine the stahlheaders are very very good but they cost a lot of coin.

You are correct - well done the Kiwi Quote Nissan

full marks yes it was based on the Cherry aka F10 and the concept name was

Yes Mid 70's is correct so mid it was 1975 so what car was used as the base - hint pics of it in this thread

Here is a current concept from Nissan - who likes this one and who can name it

We got the U12 new here in NZ - just the 4WD/Turbo SSS versions were imported Anyway here is a Nissan for you - ok not a production model but a concept - who can tell me what is was based on and the year it appeared?