NZeder

There is a BMW 65mm TB that you can use the N47 manifold too - almost a direct bolt on too (2 of the holes in BMW TB need to be made oval) - just need to port the TB opening to match. That is what I had when I had one of these manifolds when I was thinking L28ET a few years back.

I think you will find that all suck really Nissan build the EFI setup on the L28 for emission first, economy second and performance last much like most EFI setups on cars these days. They will not flow enough to get an L28 past 6300rpm (ok they can rev past that, but it is hard work and peek power has long gone at 5800 rpm from these plenums) I believe the NAPS items have more volume and a twin butterfly setup that help with good compromised plenum (they have NAPS Computer cast on the top) See if you can find a P65 plenum they are very different see this tread I started on Hybridz year back http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/39280-p65-efi-intake-manifold/page__hl__efi%20plenum

Also the rear penned nut after 30years can come loose and cause the gears to move just a little and that might be the issues also. Again pull it apart and inspect.

If you car is fitted with an AMP meter then you need the diode. 260z with Volt meters don't need the diode. If you check how the Amp meter circuit works it will explain how power stays on without the diode and the car will run on once IGN is killed

Others have stated now what sectioning the struts is all about (that will teach me to go out and be way from the PC) and there is some good info/threads on this at Hybridz. If you research you will find talk of using golf or toyota koni's etc as the incerts/shocks these are selected as they are shorter then the 240z/260z units and work in the housing once they are sectioned.

yes I hope so too

Work in progress still Year/Model: 1976 260Z 2 seater Suspension: Sectioned struts (Spring purch in stock 260z location), lovell springs, koni yello adjustable. Body Modification: Custom steel flares and rear have new inner/tub Comments: Clears perfect no springs in pics and blocks of wood for fully compressed spring setup to check flare clearances Rim Brand:RS Watanabe R-Type Rim Diameter:16 Rim Width:8.5 Front, 9.5 Rear Rim Offset:-6 front, -19 rear Rim Price:much $$$( Tyre Brand:Toyo Proxes T1R Tyre Width:225 Front, 245 Rear Tyre Profile:50 Front, 45 Rear Tyre Price:under $1000 NZD back then

Year/Model: 1971 240Z Suspension: Standard, lovell springs, koni red. Body Modification: rear fenders rolled in the past for larger setup but not required for this setup Comments: Clears perfect - test fitted to 260z stock suspension rims fowl on the front due to 260z lower spring purch Rim Brand:Rota RB-R Rim Diameter:16 Rim Width:8 Rim Offset:+10 Rim Price:$1100 NZD sometime ago Tyre Brand:Bridgstone Potenza S03 Tyre Width:225 Tyre Profile:45 Tyre Price:can't recall

Year/Model: 1971 240Z Suspension: Standard, lovell springs, koni red. Body Modification: rear fenders rolled in the past for larger setup but not required for this setup Comments: Clears perfect - test fitted to 260z stock suspension rims fowl on the front due to 260z lower spring purch Rim Brand:Arrow Wheels Rim Diameter:16 Rim Width:9 Rim Offset:-6 Rim Price:came with car Tyre Brand:Bridgstone Potenza S03 Tyre Width:225 Tyre Profile:45 Tyre Price:can't recall

Looks excellent Rev you have done a great job I did not know the fuse box was in a different location on the early 260z vs the later 260z. Here is a pic of showing were the fuse box is located on my later 76 shell 2 seater (red arrow shows the location) the shape of the panel is such so it has the cut outs for the mounting ears of the box. Anyway the car is looking great - love the colour too is it custom colour like Adam's or is it 920 Safari Gold?

First FET manifold = Good Second Those are Solex/Mikuni's made for Toyota only parts are different to the normal Mikuni PHH carbs they are known as the Type-S-5 and are 40mm carb. If I was looking for Mikuni's I would look for 3 x N44PHH with the 5 screws on top aka Type 4 (and one day I will get some when I start looking )

p510psi is correct you don't need all that to get the engine working but you should have at least the following 1 x Relay for the Fuel pump (don't drive it from the ECU directly ) 1 x Relay for the Fan same reason - assume your ECU is driving an electric fan 1 x Main ECU relay - that can drive all other circuits I started with a 260z which has more modern style electrical circuits (sort of Nissan went part the of the way) and therefore already had an ACC relay for the ACC circuits. But like the 240z full current passes through the combination switch for hi/low beam so I am rewiring the heads to include relays. I will add an IGN relay and then all the normal EFI relay, Coil, ECU, Fuel Pump and Fan. Things like the O2 power, dropping resistor power etc will come off the IGN relay. Anyway sorry for the slight thread hi -jack I will post up a diagram in a new thread of the changes I make so others can see what I have done (when I do it lol) Cheers Mike

People here in NZ have purchased motors in the past that are meant to be this or that (some claimed to be strokers) but when they were installed the performance was not as expected. After a strip down the truth is always found. Sad thing is you see these guys part with some good cash for nothing special. As stated if you get the engine for $5K and it is a stroker then I would expect nothing special for that amount of $$ good head work with new valves, welding, guides etc would cost $3+K and that is what is required for the extra cc and real power gains. Anyway what car is the engine going in? What about the rest of the drive train? Gearbox up to the torque of a stroker? Diff? It will all add up Good luck and let's hope it is a good engine

That is a nice install looks good - I did think about replacing the factory fuel box with a modern blade type. All the extra stuff will have new blade fuses under the bonnet. I lived in Melbourne from 2001-2003 would have stayed if the wife did not want to come back to NZ. Anyway I am going to hook into the loom this weekend after a quick visit to pick-a-part for some extra wire

Some advice - you will never get a decent clutch for $350 for a stroker you want a twin or triple plate really and that is closer to $1000. Yes you could run a large heavier than ........ (insert your fav choice word) and when you kill your 3rd $350 clutch in as many months you will see that dropping $1000 from the start is a good way to go. To build a good stroker (without doing any work your self) and by good I mean over 240RWHP (300+ flywheel) you will need a budget of $15K at least

Were is the vote for "Lurch has got a job working for a V8 Super Car team and no longer has the time to work on others zed let along his own" This would explain the race suit and non free weekends

Depends on the model of 260z door trim. There are two types early and late. The late type have the lock pulls further forward. I have seen a 240z with the early 260z panels installed before so doable for sure.

will let you know when I see for the first time myself

I am partly though my wiring. How many relays did you end up adding for the EFI/ECU? I am adding a total of 7 new relays 1 = Ign Relay (this will be on the factory relay board on the drive side kick panel, 260z) for switch protection really 2 = Fuel pump relay 3 = Fan relay 4 = ECU relay 5 = Ign Coil relay 6 = Headlight low beam relay 7 = Headlight high beam relay So only 4 relate to the ECU/EFI really. All relays are installed on the other 260z relay location under the bonnet on the fusible link bracket along with the extra fuses. This is also were I am install the dropping resistors for the injectors (were the factory Voltage reg was located as this is not required with the RB's alternator) I just need to visit the local pick-a-part and get loom for extra wires and spare plugs (incase I need the plugs) Anyway did you follow any of the wiring advice on Hybridz or did you just work it out your self? I have taken bits from different forums and worked out my own solution. I have also replaced the factory fusible links with a VN/VP Commodore fusible link box much tidier and fuses are easy to get from REPCO/SuperCheap etc

ok so been a while since I did an update. Not a lot of work to report. 13 years of storage = every part I go install needs to be restored or replaced Good news is the shed now has power and lights I also picked up a set of Genuine RB26DE headers from an Autech RB26DE. The engine was on trademe some 12-15 months ago and I was tempted to purchase it $3999 but I already had my 25/26 hybrid. I really only wanted the genuine headers. Anyway the guy that did purchase it in the end put a turbo on it so listed the headers on trademe for $500 NZD or $370 AUD in the current FX rate. The headers arrived at work today but I am off with a virus so will not see them until I am better and go into the office. But here are some pics I got from the original seller of the engine and the headers in the ad

PM spam is the current thing - I have seen this on a number of forums now why don't spammer just go and get a life.

Both the L24 and L26 have a P30 cast on them the only way to tell if it is a L26 if the engine number is missing is remove the head a L26 has valve recess notched into the block for exhaust valve clearances. But there should be engine number on the right rear of the block (top right rear when looking at the block from the flywheel/gearbox end)

Check their website http://www.datsport.com/chains-valves-heads.html

You do get them in Australia and like the Kluger they have a different name. The Toyota Ipsum 240s is the same car as the Toyota Avensis Verso Ultima with the only difference I can see is the park brake is a hand leaver vs a foot leaver on the Ipsum + a few other options but basically the same car

Not sure about Oz but here in NZ the after market places do a kit but.......they are from China and the chain is just ok-ish I would recommend a Japanese chain any day and if the engine is to see any performance then I would not run a non Japanese unit period. You can get a good Japanese chain/kit from Nissan or Stewart Wilkins Motorsport