NZeder

With the energysuspension bushes both the gearbox and the moustache bar require you to leave the original sleeves in place (ie just burn out the old rubber and centre bit) when my car was at my brothers work shop I ask him to do just this but my Father popped over to help and told him rubbish you always press out the whole thing.....wrong with energysuspension replacements so I had to get new sleeves made to replace the ones I told them to leave in.....cost me a lot more than I wanted and if my brother had just followed my instruction in the first place my wallet would not be as light, just because at the time I did not have the time....lol Anyway on Energysuspensions site they have the fitting instruction in pdf format that tell you to leave the outer sleeve in place.

But would be a pos with a scooby flat 4 engine. Would be much better with toyota power

Come on guys - its called Safari Gold aka 920 is the factory code and name

bargain of the purchase price - wish I could find a 240z as complete as that for a price like that here in NZ all the parts you are looking for can be found if you keep looking some even NOS and even reproductions if you are happy with that too. re the cowl just don't use a 260z part it is different not sure if the early 240z is different to he later 240z but someone else might know.

that car was in zooom mag a number of years back

No it is an electric column and it is from a Suzuki Wagon R - there I remembered. So no rack changes or pumps etc.

The electric power steering kits sold in Japan still require some fabrication to install. They also source the unit from a small Suzuki VAN...I forget the model...I will see if I can recall it...I will post when I remember

They are good books I have Volume 1 2 and 3 of these.

I found the following site while looking for some 240z pics online. Anyway check it out - the 240z had a crash with another car and then ran into a solid stone wall. If you look at all the pics you can see the damage and the personal damage too. http://www.2gimps.com/image1.html

they were not self retracting if I recall just a fixed adjustment type = a pain when I put it on the track as they were coming loose all the time.

Ok looking at a 260z 2 seater on carsales I spotted this steering wheel. Can anybody id it? It looks to be mounted without a boss and from the size about 360mm with a nice thick grip. Would be keen to know if this is still available - I have a Nissan Compe wheel already but this looks like a good alternative for those who don't want to pay/import a Nissan Compe from Japan.

Good question I sold #16 some 14+ years ago so I can't recall but Peter might have the original belts. I know they looked as they had never been replaced aka what was either installed at the factory or the first country the car was sold in - either way the belts have 1969 stamped on them according to Peter. It would be good to get other info from the belts as it might give a clue to were the car was first sold if replaced ie if they have a OZ or NZ safety standard etc.

Congratulations to Sulio and Nicole from across the ditch

This might help - I have circled all Australian models - the first part of the screen is the body style, trim level, axles and engine config. With the second part of the screen showing the transmission and market they were destined for ie AST = Australian Market

Thanks for the detailed post Alan. Pete good to hear from you. Will shoot you a PM

About a week ago I was going over some books I have now I am not 100% sure if the info is correct but I am sure Alan (HS30-H) could confirm. Anyway it talked about the works cars HS30-00026 and HS30-00025 that were build for the last part of the 1969 rally series. So if this is true this will make my old car that I sold to Peter Campbell a 1969 and not 1970 as I stated above. It was some 14 years ago that I owned HS30-00016 and I know there were some dates on that car with 1970, however I have now had it confirmed it was not the seat belts so I know it had 1970 dated plug leads. I hate getting old my memory is starting to fail like the rest of the body lol EDIT: Ok did come checking on this site and looks like HS30-H has post a bit of info here http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,5612.msg48093.html#msg48093 So it looks like the very early HS30-000xx cars might have well be build in 1969 but might not have been actually sold until after the L24 cranks were fixed. Looking over some other internet based info (which you can't always or shouldn't trust) looks like the engine numbers in the early cars might be 1970 based not 1969. If this is true then it tie in with the L24 harmonic issue putting a hold on the export HS30 (ie RHD) cars. So the whole bodies could have been complete, interior, etc and just the engine removed or not installed while the issue was sorted.

Ok I see that even Nissan have 2 torque setting in the factory service manual for the cam nut so I assume this why the Haynes manual do too. Anyway both time they have the metric torque setting the same so it is only the ft/lb that are different so checking a conversion tool I get 5-6kg is 36-43ft-lb which is wrong as the cam bolt should be around 100ft-lb - I have also attached a copy of the L28 torque settings. also download this PDF which is the FSM for the L20A/L24 this will have the step by step you are looking for - there are other FSM you can download from there too. http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM%20L20aL24engine.pdf

hmm my bad I assumed you would have installed the cup washer/drive for the fuel pump. Yes that will be your problem you need that Assume = makes and Ass-U-Me or makes an ass out of u and me lol Also if you have a haynes manual becareful as one of them (can't recall if it is the 240/260z or the 280zx manuals) has the wrong torque setting for the cam nut. Also make sure the came gear and chain stay put - last thing you need to to have them come off and you pop the chain tensor = front cover has to come off to fix that. It is not likely to happen as you need to really pull of it to get them to come off the dowl etc. However you have your L24 to remove the cup from first so that will give you an idea of what you are in for. If you have a haynes manual just follow that - but just make sure you torque up the cam nut to the correct setting - I will look this up for you now too....will re post soon.

Before you waste $$ on an electrically pump I would first confirm you do indeed have a fuel pump issue. Crank the car - keep cranking it (just drop off the dizzy cap if you must to ensure no spark) with the main feed line off the carbs. Watch the fuel keep coming as the engine is turned over (ie the cams is turning = the mechanical pump will run) if there is no fuel then you have pump issue. If you are getting fuel then I would take a look at the spark side of things next. But just to clear something up. 1. The carbs are from your L24 2. The fuel pump is from your L24 and the L24 was going before with these items? or are they from an unknown source?

It is real easy to tell if you have fuel pump issue. 1. Remove the fuel line from the carbs (the main feed line to the front carb) 2. crank the car over (assume you have a mechanical pump) or if you have electric pump turn the key to on. 3. Watch the fuel come out - if it keeps coming then your pump is working - weather or not it is supplying the correct pressure is a different story

hmm interesting all NZ new 240K were GT and all had 5 spd to the best of my knowledge - never seen a 4spd L6 box here in NZ my self Well let me restate something - all NZ 240K 2 doors were GT's to the best of my knowledge - only seen 2 or 3 4 doors and they were all AU imports so were GL models.

Since Chris posted first about his find....well I got a NOS 12-80 280zx electronic dizzy for $50 nzd from trademe. Now for the part you guys will not like. It has since had the advance fixed (ie weld the plate) and the 12-80 module removed (so it is now only a trigger for a MSD type unit with fixed advance) it is on the BRE tribute car here in Auckland.

lol Here is another step back in time pic for you. This is a 280zx with a V8 for sale currently here in NZ - looks like this has been a race car in this trim for a while see http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Specialist-cars/Competition-cars/auction-273121993.htm Pic attached also.

Depends on the offset and tyre choice. My old 240z have 16x9 on all 4 with stock guards and spring perches (ie only running lowered springs, koni reds) but these rims would not fit a 260z with stock spring perches. I then replaced the 16x9 with 16x8 +10 offset and again stock suspension and guards no problems at all - again these would not fit a 260z front suspension as the spring perch is lower on the 260z and fowled on the rim

Martin has been a bit quite of late so I assume his business/job, family (he like many of us has 2 young children) and stuff have been getting his focus of late. I am sure he will update us when the time comes