NZeder

Re the drive out of the corner - found the spring rates 11kg/mm and 12kg/mm (616lb/in and 672lb/in) no wonder it sits so flat that thing must hardly move. Re the power output - no figures indicated but if other correctly build 3.0l are used as a guide it should have 250-280ps at the wheels.

Here are some more of the same car and this one with a stronger field including a Nissan R380 Le-Manns car Now about the car and what is in it - I can answer that as I have Japanese magazine article on it. First before we get to the engine lets understands other aspects of the car. RIMS are Longchamp XR4 in 15x9 -15 offset fronts and rears are 15x9.5 -21 offset. Rapped in 215/50/15 front and 225/50/15 rears both Advan A048 (yes it has ZG overfenders installed and a large wing on the rear front spoiler is the normal single piece setup and it has light covers with chrome rings). Front brakes are the good brembo 4 pots and rear are also the good brembo 4 pots. These run with an AP adjustable valve and no booster but still a single MC. Fitted with a bolt in half cage. Running 260z (as we know them) stub axles in the rear - not sure on the diff or gearbox setup. Ok the engine. It runs a surge tank and 2 pumps - assume pre and post surge tank. A thick cross flow raditor. On the side of the engine are 3 x 50mm mikuni carbs running open trumpeted feed from air taken from in front of the radiator (ie 3 or 4" pipe fitted via radiator support panel). Under these sucky things is a wrapped header that is 45mm and 6-2-1 design. Still running a Dizzy but electronic and controlled by the Wako CD-1200 CDI unit. Now for the engine inside bits. An L3.0 running 89mm bore and a 80mm stroke (ie L28 crank offset ground or smaller journal to add the extra 1mm stroke - that is an assumption on my part) running standard 44mm inlet valves and 35mm exhaust with a 78 cam (this is what I can make out of the Japanese Kanji) which is 12mm of lift I think. And what I think is an AP twin plate clutch setup (again my Japanese Kanji is no existent so this is my best guess) So does that help?

I assume due the Ford XR6 Turbo box? But a RB clutch will work on a L28 with the correct flywheel - I know as I had (when I was running a L6) an RB flywheel and clutch on the back of my L28.

Just watched that - very cool indeed - makes me want a bike again (2 years without one )

no idea on the ratios - I could check the one I have and the best method is to strip the box and count the teeth on the gears and do the maths this will be 100% acurate. However I don't plan on doing that while I have my zed at home and I should be putting it together and not playing with a LD28 71C gearbox. Maybe one day I will do that for you but not anytime soon. Sorry.

Ok guys I thought I would share this with you. Most would not have seen one of these boxes before - but it is infact a factory 71C box with a L6 bellhousing. These bellhousing already take the larger 71C bearing (go figure) Anyway I have one of these boxes that I picked up a few years ago on trademe also cost me $80 and this was after I had a standard L6 bellhousing modified to go onto a 71C (cost $450 in machine work for an engineer) Anyway check out the auction - http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=258567611 LD28 crank in there too

so many 260z 2 seater and one only 3 builds after mine - would be nice to have that in the garage next to mine.

Yes but you sometime never know a wife might be selling it cheap to get back at the husband - seen that before. I guy gets a bargain as the car is in her name for tax reasons, she finds out he been messing around and sell his car for a nothing to get back at him. Hell I have had some Datsun 160J SSS parts that I could not give away for free and I posted on a Datsun forum stating "free for removal" - even posted pics to show the condition and yet still no-one wanted the rare rust free parts. I tried listing them on trademe for low reserve again not takers - so I ended up taking the bonnet to a scrap dealer for scrap value. Sad but it does happen - and I waited 12months to find a new home for the bonnet but I just had to move it on and get it out of the old's car port. The same might have to happen with the other R200 3.9 long nose that I have - I have no use for it and it is taking up space. I have tried to sell it here in NZ to others who are looking for one but they are either too cheap to pay the $100 I want for it or never follow up with delivery as I am not going to spend my time shipping - collect it or it stay here. I think I am almost at the point where I will do the same with the R200 3.9 that I have - off to scrap value in about 6 months time as it has been sitting here for 2 years now. So these cheap deals do happen from time to time.

Well to be a smart arrrrsssss - no there isn't (yes there is but let me have my time on the soap box). But that does depend on which 280z your are talking about. Let me see if I can confusssle you guys. HLS30/GHLS30 as in 280z sold only in USA/Canada and selected European countries is a 280z. HS130, GHS130 aka 280zx as known to the export market was also sold in Japan (ie Domestic market) as a Fairlady 280z (notice no X) Now some people see these JDM cars and badges and call what we know as the 280zx, and just drop the Fairlady from the front, and call them 280z (we get this a lot here in NZ as we have many many JDM S130 here some just Fairlady Z other Fairlady 280z) I like to use the chassis ID best. ie I have a RS30. So those in the know are fully aware of what car I have - those that don't will soon learn if they are true zed padawan's - and those that don't care about the difference....well the force is not with them and they should go and drive a dunnydoor.

Yes 260z stuff will fit in a 240z and 240z into 260z so long as the you get the rear hight correct due to differences in the rear strut towers (depends on the model).

3 flares is the bit thats got me - he should have done the other front too

I am in Dairy Flat - just a little 20minute drive from Devonport. I am sure we can catchup over that time.

This should help answer your questions http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT_driveshaft_flange.html

Thanks for the link John, one day to go - looking forward to your finding on this one and the others he has

Ok for those looking to cut up a zed for parts - how about you guys go in on this little unit http://cgi.ebay.com.au/datsun-240z-build-1036-rolling-shell_W0QQitemZ130349267985QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item1e596bfc11

No problem I will be around - working on the zed PM when you are likely to be in NZ and we can arrange something. And if you had not worked out my 260z 76 was originally 240 Metallic Racing Green - not the 303 emerald green.

That is odd most of the green 2 seaters here in NZ are the 302 metallic leaf green and it is the dark metallic that is not as common.

Cool - ok my zed was originally that colour too. Here is a pic of the car back in the 80's and this is the original paint. Scanned from photos - and we all know what 80's camera's were like so it might not be a true idea of the colour. Also bear in mind pics taken here in NZ = not as much direct sun as you ozzies (but a large hole in the ozone burn time is 10minutes for a whitey like me - when the sun does show up - which it has not really yet - we had 100mm of rain the other night in 6 hours here in Auckland) Anyway the pics click to larger pic - other pics on my site show the car when I purchased it (after a re-spray lighter metallic green custom, and the colour I have painted now - 907 non metallic green)

which metallic green there were a couple of different shades? Is it the lighter colour or the darker colour also what year are we talking about here. Sorry to nit pick but it will help with the correct pic posting.

Mate at that price I would purchase and ship to NZ and build up as a race car with all the other parts I have I would built it period correct with my MK63 calipers that I have, and few other bits and pieces.

Re the unavailable question - well when I order our 2 sets he was not making them - I found an old post on hybridz that was some 12-18months old that talked about the design - as I had already purchase stuff from Brain in the past I send him an email and later we had some shipped to NZ. So in our case he made some up for us. So I am sure the same might be the case if you talk to him

Yea sorry about that guys - I PM Lurch this morning telling him the following. "I imported 2 sets of the T3 TCR, one set for my RS30 and the other set for my mate Ricky race car. We found they are very well made and very strong. However they did not provide the amount of camber changes were were looking for. When they are at their max length they were only just (as in a few mm) longer than the stock TCR. We were looking for more. So these were sold to Targa Zeds who required the adjustments to get wheel alignments right and they are way over engineered. So we got 2 sets of the race version (2.5" longer than the road version) from Brian of ZCCJDM - (Lurch posted the link above)" I am currently having my rods shortened by 1" making them still 1.5" longer than the road version as currently when they are at their min with my large 16x8.5" rims they are just a little to close to the front guards - Ricky's race car has FG front guards that have the whole wheel arch some 75mm further forward so he can run much larger + caster = better turn-in but harder on the arms. I guess I could have gone for the road version but this way I have most of the long thread in the rod = I feel safer that way.

Correct you will not find the "a" on the block. It will just be L20-xxxxxx on the back right just below the head. The "a" and "b" are commonly used to id/tell the L6 from the L4. If you just state L20 you will get is that the 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder version blah blah....anyway you have what is know as a L20a. Keep the rods at least also what diameter water pump pulley does it have? I would be interested in the water pump pulley if it is the size I am looking for Regards Mike

No this is the engine you want for the rods. It is the post 79 L20a that have the smaller journal and little end. These L20a (as in pre 79) will have the same rods as the L24 ie 133mm centre to centre and the 9mm rod bolts. The later L20a engines (usually L20eT) have the 135mm rods with the 19mm (not 21mm) little end and 51mm big end (not the normal 53mm). Re the heads it will have small valves and ports = a lot of work to get them to work on a larger L6 bottom end.

Not sure but it is Weber speak for side draught carbs. I think the D = Dual as in Dual throat. Mikuni = PHH Dellorto = DHLA Weber = DCOE/DCOM/DCO (different versions of the side draught carbs) All of the above are side draught carbs with dual throat. EDIT: DC means "doppio corpo" (double throat); O means "orizzontale (horizontal); E means it is a die cast carburetor; PHH - something like parallel homogeneous horizontal