NZeder

well there you go - I did not proof read that very well. Tell you what though if you did to put some socks in the engine bay they would be nice and heated for sure

You are correct and it was one on selected markets ie US (on the 280z) and OZ. Other markets never got them ie NZ as heat sock was not an issue (summer does not get hot enough). Going by the parts catalogue they were from 08-76 onwards and only available in either black or white.

Guys, I am selling off my Brembo calipers. See here for info http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=240278934 If you are interested let me know as I will be coming to AU in October (early) I can arrange to delivery once I get them in OZ.

That is such a cool Fathers days present

Personally I think any PS30-SB (factory Z432-R) no matter what number is something special. Then a genuine Z432 (PS30-xxxxx) I would not care what chassis number it was just having one would be an honour. I would be more interested these special limited production models and the number that might have made their way out of Japan. It would be good to know if any made it to our shores (AU or NZ). Also it would be interesting to know if any Works cars or parts made it to our part of the world. I see this as more important than finding or owning a low build 240z, now factor in the share number that were sold in the US a low chassis number outside of the first 1-2 sold into the US (as RBZ260 points out) is no more special than another low chassis numbered car (racing history excluded as these have more historical value IMHO.) For those racers would it not be better to own a 240z that has race history back to the 70's than HS30-000223, ie say HS30-001225 was used by local racer in the 70's using parts from the options list with log books in-tacked be worth more to you than a zed without the history that is a lower build/chassis number?

JDM model S130 range was sold/marketed/badged as Fairlady 280z. This car looks to be JDM Fairlady 280z. So this is how they were badged we all think of them as ZX's but the JDM naming can and does cause confusion. I hope this clears this question up.

Re the tail light issue. I have seen this before. It was an earthing issue at the rear of the taillight harness. So it might pay to check that out and even create a new earth.

What year is you 260z 2 seater as the interior is diffierent for the 76+ 2 seaters, and most of the parts are NLA for this model:(

lol they do in that context - remember this is the English Language we are talking about and writting like "No its not possible" is a double negative so that has the affect of changing the meaning to be "it is possible" got to love the english language. As Zedman240 pointed out it is more technically correct to state "No, it's impossible" and even "No, it's not possible" works but "no its not possible" does not due to missing punctuation = double negative, I believe the second one works as the comma make the No and Not appear in different clauses so there is no double negative. Hell and I failed English + I am a Kiwi and I know how you ozzies love to take the piss (read with a kiwi ascent) about how we speak. From your "Friend in the Fridge" or for those younger TV viewer "Beached as Bro" (have not been to Oz for almost 12months so not sure about any new ads) :'(

One of the reason I sold #16 was I like to modify my zed's and for those are into early numbers I would have been the biggest sinner to do that to such an early build + it was worth more to me to sell it so I could use the $$ for the deposit on my first block of land + there was the fact that I could not afford to do a resto on it when I already had one zed in bits. It is one of 2 zeds I have owned that I did not take photos of and there was good reason - both zed that missed the photo ops were.....well in need of a bit --> a lot of TLC so #16 and my first 280zx 2 seater were too much of the "Do I want to keep a memory of these rusty cars?"

So you are using a double negative so then that makes it possible؟ it is possible but it does involve a complete engine replacement - out with the 4 stroker and in with a 2 stroke that is designed and build as a 2 stroke from the get go؟.....sorry just being sarcastic

those adaptors of yours look good - I still have not heard from my cnc guy re the drawings of the ones I had made for going the other way around.

No they aren't that different, and one does think this was by design ie keep the history and a link to the good old, strong, well respected L Gata engines but sharing the same bore spacing and head bolt location. Also take a look at the S20 engine and you can see how the RB looks a little like these also so again a bit of connection only if it via some visual similarities.

it is a bit of work but there is another Nissan engine with a crank girdle that can be made to fit hint - they are a Nissan inline 6 share the same bore spacing and head bolt pattern but use a belt drive for the cam timing

I should have kept HS30-00016 then we would have something to check/reference

no (depends on the model) but I know the 260z 2 seater 76+ have a different floor at the rear

The old school buck method - well done good to see the art/skills are still around Re the MR2 thing - I have been thinking about getting one of these of late - the MR2 Mk1 version - Dad had one for years - it was a lot of fun. I went to look at it the other day (the guy Dad sold it to was/is going to sell it again so we had first option) man he has not looked after it all. So I am still looking for one to pickup for some fun track/hillclimb thrashing. Back on topic now - sorry.

I got the patrol one recently here in NZ from Repco JB1419 - here is a link to a thread on this site with info and a pic http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,3910.msg33735.html#msg33735

yes too many distractions over the years, got married, moved to oz, moved back to nz, then there was all the other cars and motorbike to keep my focus off this project (try 20+ different cars and motorbike - some of them listed in my sig)

yes I do - however some of the bags I have taken out already the writing has faded but I should be able to work it out

guys remember in the US 280zx 2 seaters were common as mad (per say) so he is/has/was just putting his best wetback cheap Ferrari look on to his car to make it unique and he has made his goal that is unique indeed.

It is done A little rub down and then I will be bringing the "Green Arrow" home next week so it is up to me to get it back together after 13 years as just a shell - hmmm now were did I put that part? All with the flash on And now with the flash off

How about putting in one of these engine

Good call - I will update the post above and state for the older tappet setup not the modern shim/buckets as they don't need the Zinc/Phosphate additive.

I know you need an engine oil with Zinc Alkyl Dithiophosphate for the correct lubrication of the valve train in the older style engines (ie our L24/26/28 ie tapped based - there have been many threads on this topic on hybridz and classiczcars in the past) - so I use Penrite HPR range and organic as most of the synthetics don't have Zinc/Phosphate in them - however some of the Penrite semi-synthetics do. So I would recommend a Penrite LSD oil too - why they have good info on about their products on their website and we have been happy with the HPR range in our L6 engines.