NZeder

Looking good - I need to get a new centre for my compe wheel as it does not click in and just falls off as the plastic has cracked - might see if I can fit that somehow - save me some $$ like $55 USD for a new centre going by evil bay.

those picture bring back memories .....well about 8 year old memories that is (but sorry to say mine did not find that much panel damage or rust - that a side, you now have seen the car warts and all it can only get better now )

One listed on evil bay right now http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DATSUN-NISSAN-240z-260z-280zx--BOSS-KIT-._W0QQitemZ140333156598QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090715?IMSfp=TL090715203001r166

You know should be able to get them new still for around $60. Also you know that the most Datsun's from the 70's through to 1986 all share the same spline count/size so you don't have to ask for a 240z one. So I know the following also work Datsun 1600, 180B, 200B, early Skylines/240K upto 86, 720 Utes, 160J + Stanza, 280zx So sometimes you have to ask for one of these as those guys that work at places that sell wheels don't know jack from jack as the manuals/catalogues don't say.

And if the yank sorts it it will be kudos to him

Spotted this thread on hybridz today -thought I might share as some might be interested. There is a bit of debate around why bother (again) as we know the non-crossflow L6 head's can me made to flow very well and make more than enough HP for most of us. However I think it is great that people still push the subject and build hybrid engines or look for new ways of doing things - surely this is good thing to think out side the box and challenge the norm/current thinking. Anyway I digress back to the topic - see this thread -starts talking about installing a RB head onto the L6 bottom end but then the guy find a possible better solution http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150479

Alan has more than one S20 I have been lucky to see some of the special parts he has and his KPGC10 (genuine Skyline GT-R) and his Z432-R replica project. 20 years ago was driving around in a zed lol but it was not mine it was a mates who just left school at 15 and it was the first car he purchased and so it began. So Ben what is the plan with the OSG head? Which car?

It does depend on what Ben's plans are with the zed - if your local classic racing permits the OS Giken head go for it (assume that is what he plans to use the zed for a track car) but if the rules don't allow it then he might have to stick with the normal head. I guess Ben will let us know when he is ready

But what if he installs this engine in the C110 leaving the zed as it is

See this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22070 Looks like some of the export cars did get the GT-X JDM tail light colours/design - learn something every day - here in NZ they were all the non JDM type with the clear large ring

I agree as this is the model by brother in-law had here in NZ

The stock export tail lights are very different - those are in deed the JDM tail lights people pay big $$ for them - there is a different ring for the GT-R version so you more than likely have the GT-X tail lights. FYI export tail lights have a large clear ring on the inside light with the turn/amber in the centre of that. The outer is the stop/tail with a red reflector in the centre. Here is pic I found on the interweb We never got the GL here in NZ all were GT's so I guess our insurance was/is different.

Nice has the JDM tails lights already

weapon is all I can say

Got a pic showing this gusset?

You know that might be just another nasty internet rumour that I heard years ago I believe a more truthful reason is as follows. When Nissan designed the 2+2 the rear end was resigned to provide more strength for the extra weight that having 2+2 configuration would require. The 2 seater shell was later modified to take the same rear struts - why would Nissan make 2 different components for the same purpose.

Gaps look good for FG excellent work by that man

Yes but not a lot what do you need? Don't say a RB26 head as sold that or RB30 bottom end - gone too.

That explains it then - yours is a early/cross over shell and it would have originally had an A box fitted so yes just bend the leaver more to fix the issue. And also you console should have the second slot for the crude cruse control ie hand throttle and the cig lighter will be on the console not the dash.

Ok some pics from lunch time today as other asked about the colour last time - I took some of the same shots with and without the flash so you can see the difference. As I have decided not to put sound proofing back on the tin work the lower half was painted with texture coat before hand also to help with some of the noise. I will have custom carpets made that will have sound proofing attached to this that way if I ever want to make it a race car I don't have to remove stuff again - just take out the carpet

odd what year is your 240z again. The 240z and 260z B boxes are the same casing etc ie depends on the market they were for the gearset might be the same ie the same box. It is the A box that is different. So it depends on the body shell you have and the centre console setup with will help ID what box was originally in there. The stock leave in a 260z does bend backwards is your straight?

No pics this time but here an update. Had the parents and bro over for dinner - Dad was at the shop in the weekend helping (great now that make me look bad - Dad at the shop working on my car while I was at home playing with the kids and getting firewood in) anyway they painted the inside of the car - Bro tells me the next items get the work are the door jams, hatch area and the engine bay ie the bit you see more often. Then after that is the outside. So 50% of the body painted now with all the detailed/seen areas now on the agenda. I got my rear brake backing plates on Saturday from the CNC guy - there are few minor changes required so once these are done I will post pics of the setup. But basically I did not give him a set of pads and the radial caliper mounting he made go straight but the pad hands down about 5mm lower than the caliper so the mount needs to have ears as such so the caliper will mount up with the pads installed. Not a big deal it is removing stuff not adding it back on Anyway the setup will be this. Mitsubishi Evo IV rear rotors = 284mmx20mm (these have a 90mm centre bore so I have some locating rings made that match my RS Watanabes, the rotors 90mm and the stock stub axle 68mm these are pressed onto the stub axles) These rotors have a 168mm internal drum and I am using the PBR Mitsubishi Manga Banksia Single Shoe for the drum with GM actuators. All this hybrid stuff so the drum can fit in behind the stub axles. There is one down side to change the shoes the stub axles has to be removed - however these shoes should last a long time as it is only for the park brake. Anyway this setup is complex and I would not do it again so this will be a one off. If I had gone for a larger rear rotor setup then a different shoe setup could be used = stub axles can stay in to replace the shoes etc however I wanted to run a rotor that could fit behind a 15" rim if required.

single phase or 3? we all need one of these

No there are R32 RB25DE - my brother in-law had one before a d!ck in a subaru lost control on a corner and totalled it on a head on collision at over 160km/h combined impact. There a few R32 RB25DE here in NZ

I have a new oem vented 260z bonnet on my car I will take a look next time I go to the shop. Also to answer the question above YES there was a a steel knock off for Taiwan