NZeder

No problems - I keep my eye and ear to the ground on the hunt for more all the time too That would be a L26 you are after then - same block P30 code, L28 crank and 83mm bore only different is the block is notched for the larger exhaust valves of the L26 E88 head = this is what you want anyway just get a L26 engine and be done with it. Now if you were thinking a L28 with a L20a crank then you are talking different. Displacement would be around the factory mark at 2.4l but with a much shorter stroke of 69.7mm vs the 73.7mm of the L24 but with the larger bore of 86mm vs stock L24 at 83mm should rev hard.

Re the blogging function - me too - I am in the middle of updating my website to a blog setup Strokers are good to drive the torque is something else. Mine was building using L14 rods and Cosworth Forged items. Personally I would not want to go though all the trouble of getting the LD28 crank, rods, machine work balancing etc just to put a truck piston on the top (reads KA24 piston) the rings are large, the piston is heavy. Great if you want a cheap stroker (is there such a thing you have to ask) but for a few $$ more you get some nice light weight pistons, with a much smaller ring (not the truck sized of the KA24) This is just IMHO - take it as you will.

here is the link http://home.att.ne.jp/sky/FairladyZ/ZG/Nosemain_new.htm he also makes the urethane front bumpers There are few different types available check them out - these are the best you can get. And as my originals have some cracks in them maybe one day I will order replacements from him - in a few years time when I have the $$ for them

I have a link somewhere to a Japanese site that makes the best G-Nose parts. This is what original HS30-H aka Fairlady 240ZG owners purchase when the factory parts are damaged. This is a close to the originals you can get today. The product is the best on the market. But you do pay for this quality. I will look for the link now and post as soon as I find it (I have too many links these days)

Cool might have to try this with one of my 432 badges

Yes a longer stroke sleeved LD28 block with a L20B front cover, N42 head and custom head bolts, and L20B rods now that would give a good rod/stroke ratio bottom end. You need custom head bolts as the LD28 have a M13 bolt not M12 like the normal L28 bottom end - can and has been done

Well I am sure I could still find some more if need be just that they might cost more now that is all as I would have to get a complete engine, strip the cranks and then load up the blocks and take to the scrape metal guys for some $$

I had 47mm OER on my 3.2l these replaced the Weber 48's that came with the car/engine. The weber 48's I had were not the SP version so odd ball 48's that are not that good. If the head is done right then even at 3.0l 45's are too small - and the same could be said for 2.9l it is just maths, after all the ICE is just a big air pump. Air/Fuel in - bang - Air/Gases out. Any performance engine is all about getting the balance right. I am not an engine guy I work in IT (which is why my website is sh!t much like the panelbeater with a crap car etc) but engines are not IT = different = hobby so I use good people were fit and I have a good head guy (helps that I had an old head to give him to cut up so he could improve his own L6 knowledge) Nissan did a good job on the heads of the L6 engine - yet they still have their limitations and errors per-say. So it is a matter of getting the balance right so you get the best gain for the $$ you put into the engine. The L6 heads flow better than you think and for a 2 valve head work very well. Hell the LY cross flow head which has a hemi CC are reportedly to only flow 5% more than the non-cross flow heads. I would love to get my hands on a LY head and see what my head guy could learn/improve these. L28 with out much work should lay down 200RWHP in a S30 chassis. The 100HP per 1000cc at the wheels is what can be achieved from the L6 in NA form (assume all done correctly and money is no object that is what should be achievable). So it should be possible to get 280RWHP from a well worked/build L28 (might not be good for the road and will be all up top etc but doable) So as Lurch has stated a L28 with the right setup will be more than enough power for most of us - however if you are racing other zed and you want the edge maybe a larger cc engine will help you (or not driving skill, chassis setup does come into it also) Having owned/driven a large L6 engine 3.2l there is no mistake about the torque, but then having driven a smaller stroked L28 also (3.0 ie less than 88mm bore) that was build correctly it was the same as the 3.2l on the road (track was different as the other car was more track setup than mine). Now it would have been good to see the 3.2l with a different head as the head was.....well....to be polite not he best. The guy I sold the car to I also sold another head I had build by my head guy. This was designed for the 90mm bore had a very very mild cam and was worked to increase the combustion chamber so I could lower the CR down to pump gas manageable or 10.5:1 not the 11-12:1 it was with the head on the engine when I got. Anyway getting to the point - this very mild cam'd head with lower CR and pump gas only dropped 20HP at the wheels vs a large port, large cam, high CR head on race gas. So the point of this is big cam, big port and poor head work can make power but a well build head with the correct balance of Air-in and Air-out with a smaller (not much more than stock I might add) cam and ports can make almost the same power - again balance..... Wow what a pile of dribble sorry about that guys....typing diarrhoea I could tell you how to tell the high nickel blocks from the non high nickel blocks but then I will have to kill you I will one day - maybe on the next upgrade of my website (which is nothing more than pics currently) I will do a blog type site and put up a blog about the differences between the L28 blocks

No problem just if do it again next time I will charge for the box that we made to put the crank into One the down side is that locally here in NZ LD28 cranks are now harder to find - complete engines are still around but just the crank...not so much.

The only think I don't agree on is the choice of the F54 block. These blocks in Japan are never or really used for 89mm bores and most only take a F54 out to 88mm and never at 90mm on a F54 unless some JBWeld is used in the block. I have build/owned 2 x 90mm bore L28 engines one with a LD28 crank aka 3.2l the other with a L28 crank aka 3.0l both were built using N42 blocks as the F54 I had was not up to the 90mm bore (this ties in with what I have been told from a contact in Japan who said don't use a F54 for large bore builds) There is a thread on hybrids that talk about the differences between the F54 and N42 some of the info on there is incorrect and some is correct. ie that statement that the F54 is siamesed bore and the N42 is not, is incorrect. The N42 is also siamesed bore - this is covered in the thread. Most use the F54 as it is a new block = usually less km's ie from a later model car etc. However I don't go for the F54 on a NA setup, I would go N42 anytime over a F54. For turbo that is a different story. The F54 was designed as the turbo block and has better cooling for the extra heat that the turbo setups create. Also if you go Turbo you don't need the bore size to make the power like in a NA setup so upto 88mm is fine but I would stick with 87mm or 87.5mm max and turbo if that is what you want to do. Then you could still stroke the F54 with the LD28 and a turbo I just would not go for a 3.1 on the F54 or N42 with a turbo as the wall will flex to much (unless you do the JBWeld trick) There is also N42's and N42's you can tell them apart and I am sure you guys in Oz will have a hard time finding the N42's that you really want for the 90 90.5mm bores (as they are not very common at all). There are some N42's with a much higher nickel content and these are the ones you want for a large bore = stronger walls I guess the sad thing is that most don't know the difference and some of these high nickel N42's might have just been thrown away over the years.

Yes welcome and as stated very different - S30 = Front mounted rack S130 = rear mounted rack or recyl-ball type if Series I 280zx with PS. I would check out one of the Zed wreckers/suppliers in Oz aka zworks or zspares etc (which ever are the best and still around etc) check the z-links forum for suppliers/wreckers

Just good Japanese top of the line Fibreglass I have 4 of the 5 pieces of an original G-Nose (only the lower section was damaged and replaced years ago) and the quality is far better than any FG I have seen before - looks almost plastic like. Don't go near the showcars products - I have heard this from another of guy state side. They require a lot of work to fit and look 1/2 decent. Brain aka zccjdm.com makes good products and is good to deal with also I recommend his business a source of zed parts

different for sure and a good job from the look too. So 240z = 250GTO replica with a kit 2000GT Toyota replica with a kit Fairlady Z 432 replica with parts and the S20 engine Choices

I see all you guys in OZ purchase zed soo cheap - I wish the same could be said here in NZ but alas gone are the days of a zed for under 10K (well 240z anyway - if you do find one for under that = not road legal and lots and lots of rust work and parts missing)

Photochop anyone? Sounds like a great idea - do it

That is about the 3rd zed I have seen in 09 that needs/is getting rust work on the front A pillar. Must be a water trape or just that cutter thing cracks and water gets in = rust

Question time - how much power and torque does your engine make? Reason I ask is that you might find the Exedy might do just the same We had a clutch PP setup like your new one in a mates racecar - did not last a season in fact dead in 1/2 a season. two words "Twin Plate" and go 7.25" never have to worry about it again

That's the pic I was thinking of. Looks to be a LHD state side from the plate (what I can make out). I would assume this was a custom conversion much like the many hot-hods back in the day during the mid 70's. Back then there were many VW kit car and body mods ie station wagons for the beetle and the like so maybe someone thought it would be good to make a Zed wagon and this was the result. Much like many a man made a ute from a wagon or convertibles from standard coupes etc. Was this conversion ever published in any magazine? If yes maybe we could find a copy for us to read (even offline in the old school print format - I would purchase a copy to protect copyright etc just interested to know the story behind the photo) Cheers Mike

Martin you are looking better in that pic vs the last time I saw you - looks like you have grown some hair back well as least you can do that - I am screwed in that department.

Alan, I see what looks to be a pic of a S30 estate concept - years ago I recall seeing a picture of a S30 estate. Now this was pre the common photoshop type applications so it was either a real photo of a concept or old school photo/negative type setup using a S30 front end and another sports type car estate aka Reliant Scimitar So do you know of a such a concept or the photo I can taking about? Cheers Mike

I have linked to some of the pics of the car with VW flares below

I recall reading on a Japanese site that only 11 TC24-B1 were made (however it might have been lost on the translation) and their might have been 11 of these head casting left after the production ceased. I found this good pic of break down on the OS Giken TC24-B1 head.

These are custom one off metal flares on my zed - they are wider than the your normal ZG - this might given you an idea on what a wider ZG flare looks like

I only wish I could read Japanese so then I could read the many S30 books I have at home from land that gave us the S30. I have never seen in any of these books, a picture of Count Albrecht Goertz or his name in print. However there is always the names of Yutaka Katayama (known Mr K in the US), Yoshihiko Matsuo and others.

I believe Nissan never had a license with Merc however Prince Motor Company did (this is my understanding) and Nissan had already started the L-gata design well before the Prince murger. So it might look like it but they are quite a bit different the L-gata is a better engine. Count Goetz did not design the S30 - yes he was contracted to Nissan to assist with the design of a new sports car however that sports car project failed before it got of the ground. I guess it could be said that some of his ideas influenced the young Japanese design team that then, with a clean sheet of paper, we on to design the S30 as we know and love it today. I believe Goetz has more influence/input into the original siliva CSP311 than the S30. This is just miss information that Goetz designed the zed/S30 he was long departed from his contract by then. I am sure many of euro's of the day were used during the design process as well as some of the idea's/drawing that the project that Goetz was commissioned on were also used.