NZeder

Last year too in August and it was less then, but it was the wreck, a new shell and parts to make this up. If you want a cheaper version here is a kind of replica 200RS http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Specialist-cars/Competition-cars/auction-225808275.htm

Given this is does not confirm to the classified rules I thought some might still want to check out what is for sale here in NZ. I believe there are over 3 genuine 240RS here in NZ too - one is now requiring a re-shell after a major crash a month or so back - hit a bridge and the railing took out the back end of the car and the driver was only inches away from getting impaled him self - it was on the main sport news on TV but no photos on the web sorry only the summary of the rally results. Anyway take a look at this piece of motorsport history for sale. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Specialist-cars/Competition-cars/auction-224636297.htm

As Lurch has stated get a good wedge in there or the tensioner will pop. I thought I got my wedge in correctly but alas the tensioner popped. So a hassle but do-able as this is what I had to do after this happened. 1. Remove the radiator 2. Drop the front sump bolts 3. Drop the oil pump - fun with the swap bar still present again do able 4. Remove the front cover and fix your F-up Re assemble. So take it from me - make sure your wedge is good and the right shape to hold things in place.

They have always fetched a good price in Japan - your car was a good buy for the price. But you are correct they are on the increase. I did spot a one owner genuine Fairlady Z432 for sale not that long ago for $200,000 but it had only done around 75,000km and looked new still.

As Zedman240 has stated 240z/260z don't have them standard the radiator over flow hose just goes down beside the radiator and finishes under the car. I picked up a $10-12 unit from supercheap and fitted that to my race car (requirement) as luck would have it it sad nicely on the pass side down low and there was already one hole there on my car The only bottle under the bonnet is the windscreen bottle under the inspection panel on the drivers side and I think the bracket is fixed to the body for that one (I can't recall and don't have zed at home to check with yet ) PS Like Dimitri I too had to use a bottle, hose and cable tie once when at the track in a hurry

Good tips in this thread might have to have a play with my spare lenses now - thanks guys

That happened to me at the track one day - in my case the issue was the lining gave up the ghost and just fell off the shoe. This then caused the drum to lock on a low speed corner so I came into the pits and check it out. The issue I had was due to the racing temps in the lining before it jumped off + old old linings (and yes I did inspect before the track day - I knew they were a little suspect but I did not have time to do the rear disc conversion at the time) my drum was now cracked and out of round. So after a few hours of pulling/hitting with a large hammer and the like off came the drum - removed the shoes and locked up the hydrologic line = minus one drum on the rear of the car and drove home for the track I would guess yours might have done the same or the cylinder has popped out the piston and it has lock one of the shoes against the drum.

Me - I had one of his torsen's centres for the H165 when I was going to build a 120Y coupe race car (sold that project a long time ago) the quality was amazing but I did learn a good lesson from all this wire bank transfers between NZ and AU get raped for fee's at both ends, cost me 30% more just in fees, so the next time I purchased stuff I had a mate in Melbourne pay AU to AU then when I came over on business I gave him cash and collected the parts - saves a packet.

a bit - they work for one thing. They have the date and second hand. Not as good as the rally clock (know as the 2 button clock, but these require an oscillator which is very rare these days). These clock are not that common outside of Japan. Love the dash and console what was done to them? The finish on the console is excellent.

Nice the JDM calendar clock

hybridz is not like it used to be that's for sure. I see it looks like you are now permanently banned because you re-registered and this upset the admin more. WFT

Those are the best mechanical (CLSD) on the market IMHO. There is lots of stuffing around with others as Ben has stated, the C200/R200A units require striping, circlip groves cut into the side gears at the correct location and new clutches added to up the break a-way or the later S13/S14 etc shortnose centres require custom spacer made to go from the M12 hole down to the M10 bolts used on the Long nose crown wheel + all this if you an R200 already. If you have 240z with R180 you then need to get R200 moustache bar and maybe diff hanger if you have an early 240z (does not clear the R200) and then if this is the case you then need to have your drive shaft changed as the early 240z have the diff mounted to far forward...the list goes on. So LSD install are never cheap they can be done on the cheap but with lots of work and stuffing around (assumes you do the work your self which is not for everyone as this stuff can get tricky and complex) Again like many things on these cars - depends on your budget, skills and what you want to tackle your self. Re the clutch in the Nissan units - yes they are NLA but as stated in hybridz someone was making custom units at one point. There are other solutions too involving a different manufactures plates that just need to be machined to fit and these plates are still available and are a fair price too

No I only have my 2 baltec centres on the bench and not installed into a diff yet - soon I hope. Sorry no LD28 intake plenum I have only purchased cranks or bottom ends in the past not complete engines. I have been checking/looking into using the LSD centre from a C200 aka rear of the Nissan/Datsun 720/D21 + some pathfinders as these with a little mod can apparently can be installed in the R200. However there are 2 type of LSD centres for the C200 - some have the 29 spline that we require and others have 31 spline. Also some have the M10 with other the M12 (ie spacers are required if your crown wheel is the M10 type). The little mod is simple and I have a C200 centre lined up to play with as if it does not work I will install it into my Narava D21 ute to replace the open centre so $$ will not be lost if it does not work.

well that all makes sense now that we know your stock item is stuffed. My point was if the stock unit is ok they do a good job for a mild engine ie better to put the $$ elsewhere

LD28 crank and custom JUN or others from Japan designed for the L14/LD28 setup my last stroker was made with L14 rod.

those are stainless too

Thought the same myself. believe it or not the stock cast iron exhaust manifold that Nissan supplied with the cars does a good job of getting the gases out. Most headers like these ie without merged collectors only offer weight saving and sound over the stock cast units. If I were to put a set of headers on my L6 (if I go back to L6 power) I would look for a custom set to match the head work I would do to ensure the most gains can be had. I am sure these do a good job but I would be looking for an outstanding job. Again the design of the header to head is important. These with the short pipe length is not what I would want period. The shorter pipes are meant to add torque lower down but will not aid in the higher RPM range - so are good for a road car/mild performance. Again for me I would want larger HP = large $$ in the engine/head = large $$ on header that is best for the engine combo and usually that is 29"-32" primary length which these are not. Horses for courses really just not what I would be looking for an engine in a zed I would have these days.

Well the OBX unit I purchased as for the 240sx and the 300zxt shafts install fine ie 30mm with 29 spline. I thought on the R230 and the last of the R200 aka S15 with the Helical LSD have the larger input shafts (well that and the R200 used in the GT-R with the factory CLSD ie all those with the 6x1 input shafts, with the exception being the S15 HLSD with has the 3x2 bolt pattern)

On the R200 side of things - I have fitted S13/14/R32 LSD centres into my Long Nose R200's. I had to make/get made some spacers to take the M12 down to the M10 so the M10 crown wheel can bolt to the LSD centres. I have used the OBX HLSD (designed for the open S13/14 R200 shortnose)- this is covered on the Hybridz website and I believe I was the first one to bit the bullet and purchase one, however I have not got this in the car - the car is still a body shell but it is ready to go. The installation into the Longnose R200 was simple really just the normal check blacklash etc. I also have 2 x Balltec units that I plan to install into my other R200's. However one of these requires/has the different inputs into the centre so this is what I have been playing with WD21 V6 axles to make a hybrid CV axle that will work with the plugins in the diff. I should have the axles complete in the next few weeks (this weekend is a Targa event here in NZ and I am doing my normal pit crew work for a team). I will do a write up then but some of the info/work I have done is also on Hybridz just search for Pathfinder or 4x4 axles (some info also posted here on this site too)

good to see another zed getting worked on that had been left to sit for a bit of R and R (my project has been in a sim state for the last 13 years) You zed looks to be a S31 (Fairlady Z) from the under bonnet pics I have seen on this thread is that correct? ie chassis number is S31-xxxxx or a later RS30 aka 260z 2seater

Good to see so many zed getting the cancer removed from them so we can see more of them on the roads/tracks for another 40 years happy B'day to the S30 this year

Looks like the LD28 and RD28 ones I have

Good tip on the RB starter - I have a RD28 starter as this is more of gear reduction starter and is perfect for a high Compression motor There is a LD28 starter that is almost the same also (Have one of them too). It is funny how much the RB and L6 have in common. Excellent work on their Lurch - next time I am in Melbourne on business (last time was Oct last year) I will have to make a bigger effort to met more of you guys - I have gav240z before this site was even up if I recall.

Nissan should have made more the S20 and their other DOHC engine of the 70's aka LZ in the 4 cylinder range etc. I like the way it turned out too.

This 240z that recently sold here in NZ for around $35K was found to be rusty so goes to show to can spend a lot and expect to get a good car and infact it can be in need of repair also. I have been told this car has quite a bit of rust in it - does not look like it from these photos (I have more of this car).